ROSES— GRAFTING. 



171 



and as shown in d and c. The graft a should be prepared with a seat b, that when 

 pressed under the lifted bark will rest upon the top of the stock as illustrated at h 

 and e. Tie together and treat as before. When young growth has reached about 

 two inches, gradually admit light and air; having previously kept them quite dark 

 and close, when clay, moss, grafting-wax, and other means of keeping the wounds 

 moist and air-tight will be quite unnecessary. After-culture is only the ordinary 

 routine, and will be mentioned in due course. 



It is not a bad plan to graft the more delicate Teas and Noisettes in this way, and 

 then plant them in the open borders early in June. We save a year while the bud 

 would be lying dormant, and secure a fiiirly large plant the same autumn, as well as a 

 good show of late blooms. 



The propagation by suckers or offsets needs few words. It is chiefly practised with 



Fig. 83. Side-Geafting KosES. (See text.) Fig. 84. Slip- Grafting Roses. (See text.) 



the Provence, Mosses, Scotch and other briars, with a disposition to form suckers in 

 much the same way as the raspberry. Be careful, if propagating from a budded or 

 grafted plant, that the sucker is really a rose and not the Briar stock on which the rose 

 was established. 



SOIL AND PLANTING. 

 Eoses will grow in almost any soil, but the most suitable is a deep, rich and 

 rather heavy loam. It is not difficult to render any ordinary soil suitable by adding 

 clayey loam to sandy soil ; and light, opening materials, such as wood-ashes, soot, 

 leaf-soil and thoroughly decayed stable manure, to soils of a naturally stiff nature. 

 A little trouble in this connection is well repaid. It is also necessary to consider soils 

 in relation to the stocks our roses are to be worked upon. The Briar stock, in any 



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