RETURX TO PAXGA-XL 241 



tempered the optic nerves and cooled the brain. 

 Villages became numerous as we advanced, far 

 distancing our Baloch, and at 3 p.m., after 14j 

 miles, we sighted the snake-fence and the pent- 

 houses of friendly Chogwe. The Jemadar and 

 his garrison received us with all the honours of 

 travel, and marvelled at our speedy return from 

 Fuga, where, as at Harar, a visitor can never 

 reckon upon prompt dismissal. Sultan Kimwere 

 has detained Arab and other travellers a whole 

 fortnight before his Mganga would fix upon a fit 

 time for audience. 



Our feet were cut by hard boots and shoes, 

 that had more than once been wetted and dried ; 

 and wherever there was chafing or burning, we 

 had lost ' leather ' softened by constant perspira- 

 tion. A few days of rest and simple remedies, 

 white of egg and flour-powdering, removed these 

 small inconveniences. Our first move was to 

 Panga-ni, where Said bin Salim, who had watched 

 his charge with the fidelity of a shepherd's dog, 

 received us with joyous demonstrations. The 

 Portuguese lad who accompanied us escaped 

 with a few sick headaches, and we were happy to 

 find his confrere free from African fever. After 

 spending a day upon the seaboard, we returned, 

 provided with munitions de bouche and other 



VOL. II. 16 



