THE FLOWER GROWER'S GUIDE. 



store the pots on their sides under a greenhouse stage, or in other cool dry places where 

 frost will not reach them. If space is limited, shake the tubers nearly free of soil and 

 store in boxes in a cool, dark, but frost-proof place. 



The following season these young tubers will be found very suitable for the produc- 

 tion of specimen plants. April is early enough to start them into active growth. 

 Instead of placing the tubers singly in pots only just large enough to hold them, with 

 the contingent risks of some failing to start well, of others becoming diseased, and of the 

 rest being stunted in growth before receiving a shift, substitute boxes, and a compost of 

 equal parts of loam and leaf soil with sharp sand added, placing the tubers two or three 

 inches apart. Start them in a warm greenhouse, pit, or frame, and before the roots 

 become matted or the tops crowded, transfer to their flowering pots ; these must be 

 large enough to hold the roots comfortably, and for this shift the compost may consist of 

 two parts good fibrous loam to one part each of leaf soil and decayed manure, with sharp 

 sand, and, if the loam is heavy, charcoal added. Pot firmly rather than lightly, and 

 transfer the plants to either a light greenhouse stage or a roomy pit, arranging them on 

 a moist base, not on dry open lattice-work staging. Keep them close for a week, then 

 admit air freely. 



Cool treatment leads to the production of the finest foliage and flowers. Shade from 

 strong sunshine, support with light stakes and allow the plants ample room to develop, 

 quite free from each other. Newly potted plants must be watered carefully, but when 

 the soil is well occupied with roots, apply water copiously, and always before the soil 

 gets so dry as to crumble freely. Avoid using strong artificial manures, as these are 

 liable to damage the tender stems, but weak soot water or other clear well-diluted liquid 

 manure may be applied with advantage after the plants have commenced flowering. The 

 tubers may be kept for several years, but the best results attend the practice of con- 

 stantly raising young plants, throwing away the oldest of the tubers unless they happen 

 to be of extra choice varieties, when they should be split up freely in the spring after 

 growth has commenced. 



Seed Saving. — Single flowering varieties produce seed freely, but unless sound 

 judgment is exercised in the selection of varieties for cross-fertilising, the progeny is apt 

 to degenerate, or inferior varieties to predominate. Double varieties are more difficult 

 to fertilise and produce seed. They fail in this respect when growing strongly, and the 

 best way out of the difficulty is to starve the plants during August and to fertilise the 

 flowers then. 



