MANAGEMENT OF CYCLAMENS. 



13 



same facilities as market growers — then it is better to sow early in January. The plant 

 represented in Fig. 3 (h), drawn from life, was one of many obtained by sowing seed 

 early in January, but finer specimens were the outcome of sowing in October — none of 

 them having at any time received a check to free progress. 



In every case remove the seedlings out of the pans when the second leaf is as forward 

 as that shown at (/) Fig. 3. Do this with the point of a label, breaking few or no roots 

 and saving as much soil as possible with them. Place them in 3-inch pots, using soil simi- 

 lar to that recommended for the seed pans and not potting very firmly. A mistake too 

 often made is in arranging newly potted cyclamens on a warm, dry shelf, with the result 

 that they suffer from the absence of humidity, the corms hardening and the leaves fail- 

 ing to develop. Once they get into this stubborn condition it is a difficult matter to 

 restore them to health. Cyclamens should either bo well grown or left alone altogether, 

 those stunted starvelings that are so often seen being the reverse of attractive. 



The newly potted seedlings ought to be arranged on a light staging covered with 

 either cocoa-nut fibre refuse, ashes or moss, which should be kept constantly moist. 

 On bright days, spray the plants every morning and again early in the afternoon; also 

 afford light shade. The temperature may range from 50° to 65°, and there should be 

 no great increase on these figures. Shallow frames or pits and a mild hot-bed answer 

 well for the plants, and that is why many gardeners are in favour of January sowing ; 

 but trade growers, being in a position to devote proper house-room to the growth of 

 young plants through the winter, sow in the autumn. 



At c, Fig. 2, is shown a young plant that has resulted from moving (b) out of a 

 crowded seed pot. Already it is a long way behind a plant of similar age (g), Fig. 3, 

 and the chances are that it will never become much better than the plant shown at </, 

 page 11. Those moved out of pans without breaking the roots may be safely placed in 

 3-inch or a size larger pots, and directly the soil is well occupied with roots, the next 

 or final shift should be given. The strongest plants may be transferred to 6-inch 

 pots, and the remainder, probably the majority, will only need the 5-inch size. A very 

 rich compost is not desirable, abundance of flowers rather than a wealth of large 

 leaves and a meagre display of blooms being the aim of good cultivators. 



To three parts of the best moderately strong loam, preferably fibrous, add one part 

 of each of leaf soil and powdered cow manure, with enough sharp sand and ashes from a 

 slow garden fire to keep the mixture porous. When potting, the corms must not be 

 wholly buried nor unduly raised, but may show just above the soil. Make the new 



