THE FLOWER GROWER'S GUIDE. 



soil moderately firm, finishing off neatly. Some trade growers return their plants to a 

 warm house, arranging them on a moist base for a few weeks, or till they are strongly 

 established in the fresh soil, but as the final shift is seldom given before May, June, or 

 as late as July, cool shallow pits and frames may be utilised at that time for their 

 growth. A nearly exhausted hot-bed answers well, or a shallow mild bed might be 

 formed, and covered with ashes for them. Bottom heat is not indispensable, but 

 helpful. 



Unless space is limited, avoid setting the plants closely together, and thin them out 

 freely before they crowd each other, or the leaf stalks will become unduly long. Keep 

 them close for a week, spray at least twice on clear days, and shade from strong sun- 

 shine, not watering till the fourth or fifth day after potting. Frames and pits facing 

 west are the best adapted to the preparation of cyclamen plants, and light shade should 

 be afforded in the afternoons of bright days. When growing strongly the plants must 

 have a moderate amount of air, but guard against inrushes of cold winds. The leaves 

 must never be allowed to flag through want of water. Frequent syringings are bene- 

 ficial, and a humid atmosphere indispensable to free growth. If extra fine plants are 

 desired, the more forward in the 5-inch size may be shifted into 7-inch pots before 

 they become root-bound. The soil when used must always be sufficiently moist for 

 compression. 



Early flower buds ought to be pinched out, as it is unwise to permit the plants to 

 flower before they are housed in October or November. 



Treatment of old Corhs. 



Attempts to flower old corms are more often than not attended with indifferent 

 results, and as a consequence the plants are usually thrown away immediately after 

 flowering, reserving those only that are ripening pods of seed ; yet one or two- 

 year-old corms can be made to flower grandly the following season, though, as a rule, 

 not so early as the younger plants. Instead of trying to save some of the old leaves, 

 thoroughly dry the plants by laying them on their sides, if need be, in the full sun- 

 shine. They will stand a baking without losing their roots. Early in June set the 

 pots containing the corms close together in a frame, moisten the soil, syringe frequently 

 and keep the frame close. The majority of the corms will soon form numerous leafy 

 growths, and may either be left much as they are in the pots, merely removing sour 

 surface soil down to the roots, and top-dressing with rich compost, also applying liquid 



