I 2 



THE FLOWER GROWER'S GUIDE. 



lights ; a framework about 31 feet high at the sides will do. Should water lodge in the 

 heart of the plants, take it out, and in frosty weather cover the sides of the framework 

 at night with mats or canvas. This may also be done on exposed sides in very stormy 

 weather. After the plants appear stir the earth between them very carefully, and when 

 they begin to flower shade with thin calico from the sun. Watering is seldom needed, 

 and when applied should be poured on the soil alone, not over the plants. 



Mr. Bentley recommends 

 allowing the glass lights to 

 remain over the beds until 

 the bulbs are lifted. This 

 may be done when the leaves 

 become yellow and the stem 

 can be bent almost double. 

 Lift the bulbs with a hand- 

 fork or trowel, taking great 

 care of them and not taking 

 off the stems. Place each 

 one in its proper division in 

 the drawer, and allow the 

 whole to dry gradually in 

 some place where there is a 

 free current of air, but not 

 too fully exposed to the sun. 

 An enthusiastic tulip-grower 

 always tries to possess a 

 cabinet with the back and 

 sides of perforated zinc for 

 air, and with drawers. Some content themselves with keeping their bulbs in paper 

 bags or boxes. 



Fig. 59. Tulip, Salyatoe Rosa — Rose Pi: 



Preserving the Bulbs. 



The cabinet contains the drawers, divided into compartments, in which the tulips are 

 kept. In these the bulbs are placed according to the places they occupy in the beds. 

 Each draw r er has ten rows of seven compartments about 3 inches square and deep, so that 



