6o 



THE FLOWER GROWER'S GUIDE. 



Grafting may take place from September to February, but the latter month is 

 preferable, just before top growth commences. Side-grafting is usually practised, 

 using firm young tops for scions, taking care to fit the edges of the bark neatly 

 together on one side, as in the case of Azaleas (page 152). Bind securely, and 

 case over with grafting wax. Large old plants may be shortened severely, and cleft- 

 grafted. Grafted plants must be kept warm, moist, and shaded till the union of stock 

 and scion is complete. Inarching, or grafting by approach, is a surer method of 

 increasing the stock of "worked" plants than ordinary grafting. It should be done 

 in April, and in order to have the sap active in the stocks, start them in gentle heat a 

 fortnight earlier. When ready for use, arrange them round the bush of the variety to 

 be inarched, and duly bring down the branches so as to be able to connect the points or 

 growing ends with the stocks, by taking a slice from each and binding both together. 

 "When the union is complete, detach the inarched shoots from the parent plant, and 

 support with stakes till they are firmly united, and not liable to be broken off the 

 stocks by their own weight. 



Treatment of Established Plants. — Most of the failures with camellias may be 

 traced to faulty treatment at the roots. Sufficient pains are not taken to keep worms 

 out of the pots, and a sour soil is fatal to healthy root action. Much depends upon 

 the time of re-potting and the kind of soil used. The proper time to re-pot is directly 

 the plants have ceased growing, and are hardening preparatory to forming buds. 

 Continuous supplies of blooms are more desirable than a heavy display at one time. 

 Anything like hard forcing, however, must not be attempted. The safest and best 

 method of securing blooms in the autumn is to forward the plants in the spring in a 

 vinery or other structure where gentle forcing is going on, keeping them there till the 

 buds are becoming prominent, and the flowers will expand in November without any 

 forcing. Successional plants may be similarly treated. Only the very latest, or those 

 intended to flower in May or June, should be left in cool quarters to form their growth ; 

 but all should be rested in either a cool, shaded house, or under a thin canvas awning 

 on a bed of ashes in the open. The potting must be done as the plants have completed 

 their growth, and before the buds are larger than radish seed. Opinions vary as to the 

 kind of soil that ought to be used. Some growers pin their faith on peat principally, 

 others are equally confident that fibrous loam is the best material, with sand in either 

 case. Loam answers well if it does not contain lime ; but, as a rule, a mixture of equal 

 parts of brown fibrous loam, broken up roughly, and fibrous peat, with sharp sand 



