CA MELLIA S—RE-PO TTING — PR UNING — INSECTS. i 6 1 



and nodules of charcoal added, answers well. The drainage must be good, as the 

 plants require abundance of water during the growing season. 



Healthy plants do not require to be re-potted oftener than every second or third 

 year, and they should never have a large shift, a somewhat limited root-run favouring 

 the formation of short-jointed, fioriferous growth. Any that have been over-potted or 

 are unhealthy should have most of the old soil forked away from the roots, and be 

 given fresh compost, placing them in pots only just large enough to hold the roots 

 comfortably. In every case pot firmly, camellias failing in loose soil. Eeturn all 

 newly-potted plants to gentle heat, syringing them twice or thrice daily, and apply 

 enough water to keep both the old and new soil moist. 



Camellias succeed admirably planted out in conservatories and greenhouses. If they 

 fail, this may be attributed to either poorness or staleness of the border, looseness of soil, 

 or too little water, the old ball of soil and roots becoming dust-dry owing to the water 

 drawing away, it may be, through the loose soil surrounding it. A dry atmosphere, 

 such as suits many flowering plants in conservatories, is not enjoyed by camellias, and 

 these should be syringed oftener accordingly. The old-fashioned plan of growing them 

 in tubs might be followed with advantage in conservatories where camellias either fail 

 when planted out, or where it is desirable that a complete re-arrangement of plants 

 shall often take place. 



Formal training is not recommended, but camellias can be kept in a pyramidal form 

 by pruning, also tying down the stronger growths. Pruning should take place two 

 months before the flowering period rather than afterwards. Camellias may be severely 

 headed down when badly furnished with flowering wood, and if the roots are healthy 

 fresh growths will push freely, and, so to say, make old plants young again. Worms 

 must be rigorously excluded from the pots at all times. The blooms will open freely 

 and well in a temperature of 45° to 50°. Plants inclined to be too fioriferous will be 

 benefited by an early removal of some of the buds, also by liquid manure during the 

 flowering period. Excessive dryness at the roots during the summer causes the buds to 

 drop in the spring. 



Insects. — Brown and white scale are the most troublesome pests. Scrub the hard stems 

 with a brush, and sponge the leaves, using in each case hot soapy water, to free them of 

 either kind of scale. Syringing with hot water and petroleum is a quicker and, in careful 

 hands, the most effective remedy. In each 3-gallon can of water heated to 120° dissolve 

 a lump of soap about the size of a hen's egg, and then add three wine-glassfuls of 



VOL. II. y 



