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THE FLOWER GROWER'S GUIDE. 



water for half-an-hour, then dried, or they will absorb moisture from the new soil and 

 injure the plants. There will not be room in the pots for heavy drainage, and more 

 than ordinary pains must be taken in arranging that which is given, covering the moss 

 used over the crocks with some moderately coarse peat. 



The plants to be repotted ought to be in a moist but not decidedly wet state at the 

 foots when turned out of their pots, and the drainage crocks carefully removed, 

 disturbing the roots as little as possible. Make the base of new soil in the pots slightly 

 high in the centre, this fitting into the hollow in the old ball of soil and roots caused by 

 the removal of drainage, and take good care that the height of the collar of the plant is 

 right. This must not be buried deeper than it was before — deep potting frequently re- 

 sulting in the loss of the plant — nor unduly raised, or sufficient depth will not be 

 allowed for proper watering. The new soil must be gradually filled in round the sides, 

 and be rammed as hard as a blunt potting-stick can make it, otherwise the water 

 applied will drain away rapidly through the new soil, with the consequence that 

 the older containing the roots will gradually become fatally dry, the death of the 

 plant resulting. Arrange the newly-potted plants in either a cold pit or greenhouse, 

 and admit less air than formerly till the roots are beginning to take possession of the 

 new soil. 



Summer treatment has to be varied according to circumstances. Small plants must 

 not be unduly exposed to drying winds and sun. They should be plunged in ashes 

 and covered with glazed lights, drawing these off in fine weather, and blocking them up 

 over the plants when the rainfall promises to be heavy. Larger specimens ought also 

 to have their pots plunged or otherwise screened from bright sun, and the plants must 

 be protected from heavy rains by means of thick glazed canvas blinds on rollers. They 

 require exposure to abundance of light and air to harden and prepare their growths 

 for flowering. All should be arranged in their winter quarters about the middle 

 of September, or before severe frosts are experienced. 



Ericas ought never to be confined in a close moist atmosphere, or in a high 

 temperature. Span-roofed structures, with glazed sides and facilities for affording 

 abundance of front and top air, are what best suits them, as well as other hard-wooded 

 greenhouse plants. Arrange them thinly and raise them well up to the light. Never 

 resort to syringing in winter, and admit air freely when this can be done without an 

 injurious draught. The temperature should be kept above freezing point — from 36° to 

 46° suiting the plants well throughout the winter, and 40° to 50° with more air in the 



