72 HA WAIIAN G VIDE B OK. 



stones. " La Paz " says of this overland route : " As 

 we rode along, the rain poured, rattling among the 

 leaves, pattering among the impromptu pools and drains ; 

 the torrents tumbled from the hills or leaped through 

 chasms, over frightful rocks, with a thundering sound 

 that jarred the cavernous earth ; the ocean waves came 

 surging and groaning against the beetling cliffs like a 

 wail of despair, and our horses kept tumbling over a 

 corduroy road of mud ridges and holes of water, alter- 

 nating with the regularity of rice rows ; a succession of 

 mud ridges and miniature hog wallows. 



" Before reaching the Scotchman's gulch, we passed 

 a deep chasm, where some rough stone piers indicated 

 where the apology for a bridge had formerly stood. 

 Through this swept a mad and foaming torrent, near 

 four feet deep, whirling and rushing past gigantic ba- 

 saltic boulders, a cataract above, a waterfall below ; we 

 passed between this Scylla and Charybdis, and came 

 near being carried away by the foaming flood. We 

 have crossed the Rocky Mountains sis times, the Sierra 

 Madre of Mexico often, the volcanic chain of Central 

 America three times and the Andes twice ; and we here 

 most solemnly protest that we have never traveled a 

 road that gave the traveler more ups and downs on a 

 sliding scale than the pathway from Laupahoehoe to 

 Hilo." 



SUGAR PLANTATIONS NEAR HILO. 

 The Kilauea, having buffeted the trades with a de- 

 termined perseverance, and for most of the distance 

 close in shore, affords a delightful view of this magnifi- 

 cent landscape. The blue sea and its white caps, the 

 bluff shore pierced with numerous embrasures, and 



