258 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[Apbil 19, 1888- 



Small Yachts. By C. P- Tinnhardt. Price, i 

 Launches. By C. P, Kunhnrdt. Price $3 

 Conors. By C. StawtirM-Hicka. Price $3.50. 

 Donaldson. Price. $1.50. 



7. Steam Yacht* and 

 YacMs, Boats and 

 Steam Machinery. Bj, 



FIXTURES. 



1% 

 So. 



7. 



f). 



9. 



0. 

 11. 

 15. 

 13, 



m. 



16. 



W. 



16. 

 17. 

 IS. 



a, 



4. 

 4. 



4. 

 7. 

 7. 



May. 



30. Wizard-Vivid Mutch, Larch- 

 mont. 



30. New Haven, Opening Sail. 



30. Pavonia, Opening Sail. 



June. 



18. Dorchester, Open. 

 18. West Lynn, Annual. 

 10. New Jersey Annual. 



31. New York, N. Y. Annual. 

 22. Great Head Moonlight Sail. 

 22. Bay View MoonJight Sail. 



22. Savin Hill. 



23. Seawnnhaka Annual. 

 23. Hull, Hull Pennant. 

 27. Pleou, Club. 



30. Cor. Marblehcad, 1st Guam. 

 SO. Great Head Pennant. 

 30. Monatiquot, Club, Fort Ft. 

 30. Dorchester Club. 

 30. Sarin Hill, Club. 

 30-July i. Portland Cruise. 

 July. 



17. Monatiquot, 2d Pen., Inside. 



18. Bay View, Ladies' Day. 

 20. Savin Hill, Moonlight Sail. 



Beverly. Mon. Beach Cham. 20. Great Head Moonlight Sail. 

 Beverly, Swampscott Cham. 20. Bay View Moonlight Sail. 

 Cor. Marblehead, Club. 

 Hull. Club Cruise. 

 South Boston Club. 

 Pleon. First Cham. 

 Monatiquot, First Cham. 

 Groat Head 1st Cham. 



Monatiquot, Club. Inside. 

 Miramiehi, Spring Cruise. 

 Atlantic Opening. 

 Great Head Trophy. 

 South Boston Open. 



Savin Hill, Club. 

 Mira/rnicbi, Cup. 

 Larchniont Spring Pen. 

 Buffalo Club. 

 Great Head Open. 

 Shacltamaxon. Spring. 

 Atlantic Annual. 

 Columbia. Annual N. Y. 

 Monatiquot, First Pen. 

 South Boston Club. 

 Cor. Marblehead Pennant. 

 Portland Annual Challenge 

 Savin Hill, Open. 

 Chelsea, Dorchester Bay. 

 Bay View, Club. 

 Quaker City Aunual. 



Miramiehi, Club Cruise. 

 Larchmont Annual. 

 Buffalo Annual. 



11. 

 13. 

 14. 



14, Beverly, Marblehead, Open 28. Hull, Hull Regatta. 



31, South Boston Club. 

 81. Dor. Marblehead, 2d Cham. 

 21. Beverly, Mon. Beach 3d Open 

 25. Pleon, Club. 



28. Cor. Marblehead, Ladies' 

 Race. 



14, 



u. 



14. 

 14. 

 15. 



4. 

 8. 

 11. 



n. 

 ii. 

 n. 



11-: 



L5 



\5> 



*5. 



17. 



L 

 i. 

 i. 



3, 

 3. 

 3. 

 3. 

 5. 



28. Beverly, Mon. Beach Cham. 

 28. Great Head Club. 

 28. Bay View Club. 

 28. West Lynn, Club. 

 31. Monatiquot, Third Pen. 

 31. Dorchester Club. 

 August. 



Larchmont Oyster Boat. 18. Bay View Annual Cruise. 

 Hull, Hull Ladies' Day. 18. Monatiquot, 2d Cham, Ft. Pt. 



Hull, Hull 2d Championship. 18. South Boston Club. 

 Beverly, Nahar.t, 2d Cham. 18. Cor. Marblehead, Cup Race. 



20. Great Head Moonlight Sail. 

 20. Miramiehi, Cup. 

 22. Pleon, Third Cham. 

 25. Savin Hill, Club. 

 25. West Lynn, Ladies' Race. 

 25. Beverly, Marblehead, Open. 



28. Dorchester Club. 



29. Bay View Club. 

 29. Great Head Club. 

 29. Monatiquot, Open Sweep. 



September. 



12. Great Head Club. 

 12. PJeon, Sweepstakes. 

 15. Buffalo Club. 

 15. Beverly, Mon. Beach, Open 



Sweep. 

 15. Dorchester Club. 

 15, Savin Rill, Club. 

 18. Chelsea, Dorchester Bay. 

 20. Savin Hill, Moonlight Sail. 

 — . Miramiehi, Cup, Final. 

 22. West Lynn, Cham. Sail-off. 



Hull, Hull 1st Cham. 

 Chelsea, Dorchester Bay. 

 Savin Hill, Open. 

 West Lynu, Cham. 

 Miramiehi, Cup, 



Pleon, Secoud Cham. 

 Savin Hill, Club. 

 West Lynn, Club. 

 Beverly, Mon. Reach Cham. 

 Cor. Marblehead, Open. 

 ;0. Buffalo Cruise. 

 Great Head 2d Cham. 

 Monatiquot, Ladies' Day. 

 Picon, Open. 



Bay View Moonlight Sail. 



Savin Hill. Open. 

 Hull, Hull Onen Race. 

 Larchmont Fall. 

 Newark Fall. 

 South Boston Open. 

 Beverly, Marblehead Cham. 

 Cor. Marblehead Cham. 

 Pleon, Sail Off. 

 Cor. Marblehead, Sail Off. 

 West Lynn, Sweepstakes. 

 Hull ( ham Sail Off 



YACHT SAILS. 



THROUGH permission of Mr. Gilbert H. Wilson we are able to 

 give the following resume of the lecture delivered by him 

 before the Seawanhaka C. Y. C, on April 7: 



MATERIAL. 



One of the first things to consider and also one of the most 

 interesting! in regard to yacht sails is the material. In this coun- 

 try we prefer cotton duck; it has been in use here about 50 year;-:; 

 previous to that we used Russia and Holland duck which for nice 

 Bails was hightech As this was before the advent of steam, 

 among coasters pains were taken to have nice sails, and when 

 racing it was customary to wet them down by means of a scoot 

 horn placed on a long pole, and the best man was the one who 

 could throw water the highest. Cotton almost immediately took 

 the place of the flax as it was found cheaper and more satisfac 

 tory. although the Navy still uses the flax. The English and 

 European countries hold on to the flax probably for commercial 

 reasons. The superiority of our sailing ships over all others was 

 undoubtedly due largely to the use of cotton duck, combined with 

 great beam. Consider two ships each spreading 8,000 or 10,000yds , 

 one of flax and the other of cotton duck. In a stiff breeze the 

 cotton would offer a great deal more resistance to the wind, 

 especially when the sails are partly worn. Flax duck is all qual- 

 ities and the fi.no bleached yacht duck is no comparison to the 

 ordinary ship duck, which soon grows limp and open and finally 

 verytthin, so that the expression "can take the sun through them" 

 is literally true. But cotton never gets in such form and keeps 

 its stability to the last and is always about one quality. When 

 the America went to England with No. 2 22in. cotton duck, the 

 cut and sit of her sails were much admired; but they did not con- 

 sider so much the material, which was really the principal cause 

 of their merit. 



A few years later the English attempted to use cotton on their 

 yachts, but their cotton duck was a miserable affair and thev soon 

 abandoned it, and very much improved their quality of flax'duek. 

 To draw a proper comparison hetween cotton and flax they should 

 be seen in the sails after they are partly worn; then a very great 

 difference will appear that does not show at all in the piece. The 

 cotton, to a great extent, holds its form and character, while the 

 flax gets limpsey, elastic, cravvley and stretchy, and loses all abil- 

 ity to stand up in a mass. (Specimens of both were shown here.) 

 It is this fault probably that compels English racing yachts to 

 have new sails so often. Flax probably lias some ad vim t aire in 

 light winds, and would be a good material for very light large 

 balloon sails, where great strength is required combined with 

 lightness, and is also best for storm sails, as it is much better than 

 cotton, and stows more compactly and is less likely to mildew. 

 During our war the. coasting schooners were compelled to use flax' 

 but after one trial they would pay double price for cotton, and all 

 agreed that the vessel sailed much faster with the cotton. The 

 perfection to which English sailmakers have brought their flax 

 duck sails is deserving of the greatest praise; their whole experi- 

 ence has been with this material, but they undoubtedly see &s 

 advantage of cotton, and are now buying yacht duck In this 

 market. 



For the last two or three years our manufacturers have been 

 competing to produce, the best article of yacht duck, and we have 

 now undoubtedly the most perfect duck ever used. Duck should 

 be carefully weighed and numbered on the basis of 18oz. per yard 

 of 32in. wide for No. 1 and falling about loz. per number, and the 

 same ratio applied to 14in. duck. 



6.37oz.; No. 10, 5.73os. 



It should be hard as possible to work properly, but it too close 

 or hard, it breaks under the needle, and makes a bad job. The 

 color should be uniform, which is apt to be a difficult matter, as 

 it changes from white to yellow with age, so that the same lot of 

 cotton, if woven at different times, will show different colors. 

 This can be guarded against by making up a large lot at one time. 



The principal fault in the manufacture is the selvages: all 

 woven material is inclined to have one selvage tighter than the 

 other, which would condemn it for nice sails, so every piece siujuid 

 be carefully examined before using. The width of the seam varies 

 from 2in. to l}£iu., which last is sufficient for No. 1, and gradually 

 less for the lighter numbers; the blue- mark should be sfronc and 

 fade out. Flax sails have no mark and are sewn; our sails are 

 stitched. The question of the best width is not fairly settled. 

 The narrow duck looks better and the additional laps give more 



stability and makes a heavier sail, but the increased frictional 

 surface is probably a detriment. The old racers, America, Julia 

 and Sappho, used 22in. duck. We have probably something to 

 learn in this matter. There used to be a patent on sails cut hori- 

 zontally, and they were used by Ml", Stevens on the Maria, but as 

 they failed to come into use their advantage was not very appar- 

 ent, although it was claimed by the inventor they would give 

 extra speed to Hie vessel. Flax duck probably does better in the 

 English climate than it does in our hot sun and dry winds. 



SAIL PLAN, 



The sail plan, as determined by the spars, Very properly 

 comes in the province of the designei'i but to fill these 

 spars properly and to the best advantage should be the study of 

 the sail maker. All the parts of a boat should be in harmony so 

 as to form a complete whole; this gives character to the boat "and 

 makes her effective. As many yachtsmen take pleasure in experi- 

 menting, it is quite common to make changes in the sail plan; 

 very often the boat is improved, but sometimes she is not, and if a 

 5 a.eht is built for a sloop it is hard to make a cutter of her. 



Sonic illustrations of this would be interesting. Take the 

 America for example, as designed by Mr. Steers, with a charac- 

 ter; and rigged as at present, without a character. 



Some time since the mainsail of a ccntcrboard sloop was altered 

 to the cutter form, with long gaff, but the yacht failed to work as 

 before. The final result of several changes in the mainsail was 

 to restore it to its original proportions, when the yacht handled 

 as of old. The. rig must be adapted to the general type of bull 

 and the same careful atttentlon is necessary In sparring a boat in 

 accordance with her general plan as is given to the proper pro- 

 portion of the hull, in which matter the varied experience of the 

 sail maker is sometimes useful, The designer's sail plan should 

 be made as ho expects the sails to be when fully stretched, and 

 lengths of all spars, etc., should have accompanying figures. 

 Supposing the plan of a 70ft. sloop. First the hoist of the mainsail 

 i.s to bo determined, how much drift should be between throat 

 blocks and how much the luff will stretch. Long mastheads are 

 desirable as they make an easier angle to hold the peak; the hoist 

 of the sail finally should be determined. Duck stretches length- 

 wise and diagonally, but never crosswise unless under very 

 heavy strain, and then hut little, and where there is no direct 

 strain it grows narrower. 



A long leach is desirable, but care must be taken not to get the 

 boom too low, as it does not improve the sit of the sail, and when 

 boats have considerable sheer aft and the wheel stands high, if 

 the boom swings low it is dangerous, as it may smash the wheel. 

 The swing of the boom should remain the same, and is a good 

 criterion that the sail is being properly stretched; the peak should 

 be at an angle of about 50° with the waterline. .It is a nice 

 point to get the peak just right where it will look yachty and still 

 do good work. It should he well understood that a certain angle 

 of the gaff gives the greatest area of sail, and although the peak 

 may be carried higher and increase the area of the mainsail a 

 little, it will materially lessen that of the topsail, and where sail 

 area is a factor in time allowance it would appear that for racing 

 it would bo advisable, to get the largest possible sail spread, 

 especially at the end of the gaff, where it is of more value than 

 anywhere else. The high peak does well in a catboat, where 

 there is no topsail, or in a cruising yacht; but for racing, where 

 the mainsail and especially the clubtopsail are used for all-around 

 work, it would appear advisable to get all the area possible. 

 Under the N. Y. Y. C. rules for measuring area one boat may have 

 considerably more than another with the stme spar plan and get 

 it, where it will do the most good. In a sail 75ft. on foot and 

 15ft, hoist the areas would be for different angles of peak as fol- 

 lows: At G0°, mainsail l,S0isq. ft., topsail 539sq. ft., total 2.3l8.sq. ft. 

 At 52°, mainsail l,7d"sq. ft., topsail 68tie j. ft., total 2,H9sq. ft. At 

 47°, mainsail l,722sq. ft., topsail i59sq. it,, total 2,4Slsq. tt. 



If the tack is placed too low it necessitates carrying the end of 

 the boom too high. The tack should be placed so it will give the 

 best angle for boom and have the leach long as possible. 



What weight of duck we shall use is a nice point to determine. 

 Heavy duck is no advantage in itself only as it gives stability and 

 power to resist the wind pressure. For forestaysail, jib or top 

 sail, the difference of one number lighter or heavier is not so 

 much consequence, as in the mainsail where if too light it fails in 

 strong breezes, and if to heavy lacks draft for light winds; a 

 proper determination of this is by experience. 



How to finish the foot to hend to the boom is a vexed question; 

 the common practice is by jack thimbles; with a jack rope run- 

 ning along the top of the boom the sail ought to bend so as to 

 allow the slacking up of the clew, and in this matter yachtsmen 

 have an opportunity to exercise their ingenuity. The sail when 

 bent should be hauled on gaff and boom to the figures at which 

 it was made and which should be indicated by the sailmaker. 

 The sail will have some bag in the center and a very rounding 

 leach, which when the vessel lays in the wind will roll from side 

 to side but will lay out smooth when filled. Expert yachtsmen 

 like to see a rolling leach, and it is evidence that the sail has not 

 been over-strained on the head and foot. On the head the sail 

 should never be strained but the slack simply taken out as the 

 wind and weather slacks it and never urged. 



The foot should be carried with a very easy strain, even slack, 

 except when racing in a stiff breeze; then it should be hauled 

 out sufficiently to make the sail sit, and always slacked up when 

 not in use. The extreme limit, which is the straight leach, should 

 be reached as slowly as possible. 



Before proceeding to the sit and action of sails something needs 

 to be said about spars. Ga ffs, as they are now" rigged with spans, 

 are held very straight, which is right; but we think they could be 

 improved by being oval-shaped, as the strain by the wind on both 

 booms and gaffs is perpendicular with the spar. The Newport 

 catboats have a flat gaff with a very high peak, and the blocks 

 well toward the center, and it appears as if this plan might be 

 used on larger boats to advantage, as now it is necessary to carry 

 the outer span to the end of the spar, and, when the peak is high, 

 bringing an awkward strain or pull on the halliards. And why 

 do we use a chock and great heavy awkward jaws on yacht gaffs? 

 The Puritan's chock was lately replaced, and although made small 

 as possible weighed 131bs. Chocks are a necessity on seagoing 

 vessels, but entirely un necessary on yachts in smooth water. The 

 Miranda has small iron jaws covered with rawhide, and they have 

 been thoroughly tried, and even made an ocean voyage and the 

 mast shows no sign of chafe. Imagine the weight and windage 

 that might be saved. The matter of booms is one we would liite 

 to emphasize, as we consider it one of the most important ques- 

 tions that yachtsmen have now to consider. A straight boom we 

 consider necessary, and any departure from it a damage to the 

 sail: if they were simply crooked sticks the sail could be fitted to 

 them, but when they change, shape With every breeze it is too 

 much for the sailmakor's art. The sail being made with 22in. 

 roach, is about what Will be taken up in stretch so as to leave the 

 sail easy, with just enough pull along the boom to hold the sail 

 from bagging; the result is, nearly the whole strain comes on the 

 clew at the outer end, the sheet is the fulcrum, and if the spar 

 springs, the center from the sheets to the mast drops down, bring- 

 ing an undue strain through the center of the sails, entirely de- 

 stroying its draft for fine windward work, also the outer end 'lifts 

 and throws 2ft. or 3ft. of slack up the leach. 



The trouble is more noticeable in schooners, where the boom 

 projects so far over the stern, and in a first class sloop, where it 

 is already a serious difficulty. The Thistle, with mast pretty well 

 forward and long overhang, carried her sheets near the end of 

 the boom, which answered very well. There have been a great 

 many remedies suggested, but, so far as we know, the problem is 

 unsolved. Now, suppose our spars right and the sail properly 

 made and bent, we proceed to set it. After the sail is started up 

 a bit the boom should be topped some distance above its regular 

 angle (this is often neglected, and the boom is raised by unduly 

 straining the angle of the sail). After the throat is hoisted well 

 taut put the peak up a little higher, then the sail is out enough to 

 allow for coming up of the halliards; then drop the boom with its 

 full weight on the sail. 



Sails should be studied and built for tho purpose for which they 

 aie intended, and may be divided into three kinds, viz: For going 

 against the wind, across the wind and down the wind, or in yacht- 

 ing language, beating, reaching and running. As sails have 

 always been of a flexible material, probably for convenience, and 

 no better plan for sailing has ever beer adopted, it is fair to as- 

 sume it is the best. Now, which is the best form for a sail to pro- 

 pel a boat against the wind? We should have a careful and 

 thorough understanding of this most important matter relating 

 to yacht sails; there has been considerable written and some nice 

 figuiing to illustrate this by the angles of incidence, showing the 

 ■direction and force of the impulse, which might be interesting, 

 but as we are not prepared to do this we shall simply try to show 

 the practical results. The true test of the windward sail is the 

 one that lies the closest and pulls the hardest. The lateen sail 

 with boom appears to be the ideal, probably the lateen and mutton 

 leg will go closer to the wind than any other. Our mainsail, if the 

 topsail were included, would be a leg ' mutton with the gaff for a 

 batten, and this shape should be retained as near as possible bynot 

 allowing the gaff to swing out beyond the line, which will make a 

 fair, continuous curve from head of topsail to lower end. After the 

 sail is fully stretched up there should be alight vertical strain on 

 the sail along the boom, but not enough to interfere with the 

 horizontal draft, or to slack the leach as to make it shake. There 



is a point at which a sail is at its best; it should be tho aim of the 

 sail maker to study this form and build his sail accordingly, and 

 so that it will retain this shape the longest time possible. 



FORESTAYSAIL. 



The forestaysail, placed as it Is between the jib and mainsail, is 

 like being between the devil and the deep sea; if it escapes harm 

 from the jib it is likely to harm the mainsail, and necessarily has 

 to be made perfectly flat, sometimes even using battens, so that its 

 propelling power very close (inside of four points) to the wind 

 must be small. The forestaysail is often carried out on the 

 bowsprit, this may be a benefit in some ways, but enlarging a 

 forestaysail at the expense of the jib is not good, the jib being the 

 better sail for all kinds of work. 



JIB. 



The jib is a fine sail and well illustrates the art of sailmaking, 

 as more care and knowledge is required in its make and use than 

 any sail on the yacht, and when properly made and handled will 

 stand well and pull to 31^ points. The English have brought its 

 build and use to near perfection, bnt we believe the cotton sail 

 the best. 



SMALL JIBTOPSAIL. 



The small jihtopsail is a help to windward and is built on the 

 same plan as the jib. The nicest point is to determine the 

 weight of materia] as most effective for close work, but small 

 yachts are obliged to use light ones as heavy ones pay them off 

 too much. 



WORKING TOPSAIL. 

 The working topsail should be of heavy duck, same weight as 

 the jib; it requires a fair sized mast rope. The usefulness of this 

 sail depends mostly on the setting and handling. The plan of 

 two halliard blocks appears an unnecessary weight and windage 

 aloft, which is saved by hoisting with a single part through a 

 sheave; then have the purchase on the. tack; the plan of setting 

 them across the gaff necessitates making a small sail that never 

 fills out except when everything is perfectly dry and well 

 stretched; while if they have along tack and stretch down they 

 always fill the space full. The principal objection to setting on 

 one side is that the foot bellies off too much; but this can he 

 obviated by always having them on the windward side. This is a 

 question to which yachtsmen should give some care and attention 

 to settle which plan is the best. 



CLUBTOPSAIL. 



The clubtopsail does well in close windward work; forming as 

 it does the apex of the pyramid and being much lighter material 

 than the mainsail, it requires to be a flat sail. It would he better 

 if made of heavier duck, but on account of it s size and the great 

 weight of the spars it is made light, generally of lOoz. bighted, 

 but No. 10 would be better. It should be cut with sufficient roach 

 on foot and mast to allow for the spring of the spars; when 

 properly made, and set in the American fashion, it is a very per- 

 fect sail. The sit can always be assured by a proper adjustment 

 of sheets and halliards. To set a topsail properly when new, 

 the sail should be viewed from another boat, abeam of the 

 yacht. 



WORKING! JIBTOPSAIL. 



For reaching, yachts should have a fair sized 'working top-sail, 

 one that will answer for ordinary windward work and off the 

 wind in stiff breezes. Also a lighter one, about 50 per cent, larger, 

 for reaching in strong winds and some sea where it would be un- 

 safe to carry a balloon. 



BALLOON JIBTOPSAIL. 



The balloon jihtopsail is an excellent reaching sail with the 

 wind abeam or on the quarter ; its principal points are to be very 

 large, very light and very strong. The tack should come down to 

 tho bowsprit and hoist chock aloft, the clew should come to the 

 deck about one-third from the mast to the taffrail. Being so very 

 large makes it a dangerous sail for the spars, it should therefore 

 be as light as possible. When made of cotton duck, that which 

 weighs 8oz. to the yard is the lightest that will insure sufficient 

 strength. From its large area the pressure is so great that all 

 the reinforcing that can be applied is hardly sufficient to keep it 

 from bursting, but a fine twilled linen can be used that weighs 

 onlyl^oz. to the yard and has much more strength than the 

 cotton. It has been used on two large yachts and in both it was 

 satisfactory. 



BALLOON FOREST AYSAIfj, 



The balloon forestaysail is also a good reaching sail; it should 

 hoist well up and lug well aft tho mast, and as it is sometimes 

 used to windward it should be a flat sail for the same reason as 

 the forestaysail. The clew should bo low. 



SPINAKER. 



The spinaker is essentially a sail for running and should 

 be used for all it is worth, but there appears to be a dif- 

 ference of practice among yachtsmen. There are some who carry 

 the clew forward and spill the sail into the balloon jihtopsail; if 

 this is the best it would be well to construct the sail with that 

 view; but it is generally built to carry square across the 

 ship, and if the whole space is filled it takes the full power 

 of the wind directly, which would appear to be better 

 than spilling it into another sail. Besides being a driving sail 

 it is also a lifting one— a matter of consequence in running^and 

 this force is greatest with the sail athwartship. In planning, the 

 first consideration is to have the sail as large as possible. They 

 sometimes have a yard across the head, when they can be used 

 with or without it by having a cringle in each corner and one in 

 the center of the head, and by lashing these together use it as a 

 three-cornered jib-header sail. 



When properly made and handled, it shows a lifting power 

 which must he a great help in runuiug, and this we consider one 

 of the chief merits of the sail. 



It is generally made of very light cotton drill, weighing about 

 five ounces to the yard. As it is not subject to great strain, this 

 does very well, if the corners are well strengthened and a pre- 

 venter band about 30ft. long placed 10ft. above the foot, along the 

 center, to prevent the sail from bursting by catching a sea in the 

 belly of the foot. The sail would undoubtedly be stronger made 

 of linen, hut, the need is so small it would hardly pay for the in- 

 creased cost. This sail, like the balloon jihtopsail, however large 

 they may be, when full of wind, gives the idea that they might be 

 larger, whereas any addition to them would probably be of no 

 use. It should be handled and slung like a kite, so it will puU 

 upward. 



WEIGHT OF SAILS. 



The weights of the different sails for 70ft. w.l. sloop ready for 

 heading are as follows: 



Lbs. Lhs. 



Mainsail 820 Clubtopsail 152 



Forestaysail 180 Small jihtopsail 75 



No. 1 jib 301 Working jihtopsail 134 



No. 2 jib 204 Balloon jibtopsail 289 



Storm jib 166 Spinaker 260 



Working topsail 153 



Total , 2,687 



SCHOONERS. 



All our remarks on sloop sails apply equally to schooners. For 

 racing they should have a lug foresail, and if required, the fore 

 gaff could be longer than the space between the masts, thereby 

 making a larger and more effective sail with less lug. They 

 should have a small and moderately heavy working main topmast 

 staysail, and a very large balloon staysail of light drill. The head 

 rig should be the same as a sloop's. Fljnng jihs are advisable 

 only on very large seagoing vessels. Besides the No. 1 racing jib 

 there should be a No. 2 jib, one number heavier that would answer 

 for ordinary use, keeping the No. 1 jib for racing. They also 

 require a small jib for heavy weather. 



Much has been said about the care of sails. The principal 

 trouble is mildew. There are numerous patent preventives, but 

 it is quite certain none are efficient. Mildew is a parasitic fungus 

 and appears to be part of the vegetable life of the cotton; it is 

 brought out by heat and moisture. If the sails can be kept clear 

 of it the first season the danger is greatly lessened, and after the 

 second season they rarely mildew. Our plan and advice is when 

 the sails are new and bent, to douse and drench them thoroughly 

 on fine sunny days with clean salt water. The weather has 

 decided effects on sails, and when new some care should be used. 

 We have seen a new suit of heavy sails bent and used on the trial 

 trip in one of our March northwesters, blowing all the boat could 

 stagger under. Scon the dry wind and hot sua appeared to melt 

 the duck, it: went off in bags and never recovered. Then, sails 

 first used in a long spell of cool, foggy weather will fill up and 

 become hard and stiff. The salt water dousing is good for them, 

 and helps them to retain their shape. If sails get out of shape by 

 bad management, unless it is a pretty bad case, they can be re- 

 covered by careful handling. It is a bad plan to furl sails closely, 

 as it is apt to make baggy places in tho sail, and increase the 

 danger of mildew. They should be allowed to fall naturally on 

 the spars, and have neat fitting covers. 



It is quite a common belief that new sails have got to bo drilled 

 into shape, and that it takes considerable time to got them right. 

 This is unnecessary, as three days of good weather is quite suffi- 

 cient. As a rule, sails do their best when new, and much pulling 



