78 



SAX FERNANDO. 



being no meadows or pastures in the lower parts of 

 the torrid zone, as in Europe. The road was bor- 

 dered with a kind of bamboo, rising more than forty 

 feet. These plants, according to Humboldt, are less 

 common in America than is usually supposed, al- 

 though they form dense woods in New-Grenada and 

 Quito, and occur abundantly on the western slope of 

 the Andes. 



They now entered San Fernando, which is situ- 

 ated in a narrow plain, and bounded by limestone 

 rocks. This was the first missionary station they 

 saw in America. The houses of the Chayma In- 

 dians were built of clay, strengthened by lianas, and 

 the streets were straight, and intersected each other 

 at right angles. The great square in the centre of 

 the village contains the church, the house of the 

 missionary, and another, destined for the accommo- 

 dation of travellers, which bears the pompous name 

 of the king's house (Casa del Rey). These royal 

 residences occur in all the Spanish settlements, and 

 are of the greatest benefit in countries where there 

 are no inns. 



They had been recommended to the friars who 

 superintend the missions of the Chaymas, by their 

 syndic at Cumana, and the superior, a corpulent and 

 jolly old capuchin, received them with kindness. 

 This respectable personage, seated the greater part 

 of the day in an arm-chair, complained bitterly of 

 the indolence of his countrymen. He considered 

 the pursuits of the travellers as useless, smiled at 

 the sight of their instruments and dried plants, and 

 maintained that of all the enjoyments of life, with- 

 out excepting sleep, none could be compared with 

 the pleasure of eating good beef. 



This mission was founded about the end of the 

 seventeenth century, near the junction of the Man- 

 zanares and Lucasperez ; but, in consequence of a 

 fire, was removed to its present situation. The num- 

 ber of families now amounted to a hundred, and as the 



