206 MISSION OF ATURES. 



rueni, they slept on the island of Panumana, which 

 they found rich in plants, and where they again 

 observed the low shelves of rock partially coated 

 with the vegetation which they had admired at 

 Carichana. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Voyage up the Orinoco continued. 



Mission of Atures— Epidemic Fevers — Black Crust of Granitic Rocks — 

 Causes of Depopulation of the Missions — Falls of Apures— Scenery — 

 Anecdote of a Jaguar— Domestic Animals — Wild Man of the Woods 

 — Mosquitoes and other poisonous Insects— Mission and Cataracts of 

 Maypures — Scenery — Inhabitants — Spice-trees — San Fernando de Ata- 

 bapo — S;m Baltasar — The Mother's Rock — Vegetation — Dolphins — 

 San Antonio de Javita — Indians— Elastic Gum— Serpents— Portage of 

 the Pimirhin— Arrival at the Rio Negro, a Branch of the Amazon — 

 Ascent of the Casiquiare 



Leaving the island of Panumana at an early hour, 

 the navigators continued to ascend the Orinoco, the 

 scenery on which became more interesting the 

 nearer they approached the great cataracts. The 

 sky was in part obscured, and lightnings flashed 

 among the dense clouds ; but no thunder was heard. 

 On the western bank of the river they perceived the 

 fires of an encampment of Guahiboes, to intimidate 

 whom some shots were discharged by the direction 

 of the missionary. In the evening they arrived at 

 the foot of the great fall, and passed the night at the 

 mission of Atures, in its neighbourhood. The flat 

 savanna which surrounds the village seemed to 

 Humboldt to have formerly .been the bed of the 

 Orinoco. 



This station was found to be in a deplorable state, 

 the Indians having gradually deserted it until only 



