^2 The Persian Travels Book L 



CHAP. VII. 



Of the %oaà from Smyrna to Ifpahan , through Natolia. 



SMyrtta is at this day for Trade , whether it be by Sea or Land , one of the 

 raoft celebrated Cities of all the Levant , and the greateft Market for all 

 forts of Commodities which are tranfported out of Afia into Europe , or 

 out of Europe into Afia. Hither all the Weftern Fleets are moft regularly 

 bound, that came formerly no farther than Ligorn , and from whence, at times 

 moft regularly appointed , the faireft Caravans fet out. 



This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude*, and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of 

 Latitude •, at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago , which is feven Leagues in 

 length , upon the right fide of the Jfihmus which begins to form the Peninfula of 

 Claaomene, right againft the Hand of Scbio. It lyes in that part of the Letter Afa, 

 which the (jreeks pofïèfs'd , under the Name of Iconium • at a diftance almoft equalj 

 between Ephefm and Sardis ; and was one of the feven Churches mention'd in the 

 Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheater, 

 upon the defcent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer- Weft. But it is neither 

 fo great , nor lb beautiful as formerly it was , as may be eafily conjettur'd by the 

 Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill , which from the middle to 

 the top , where the ancient City ftood , are altogether uninhabited. There are 

 alfo to be feen the Walls of a fair Caftlc , and above that the Ruines of an Amphi- 

 theater, where they fay St. Tolycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions. This Am- 

 phitheater was not in the form of thofe other, which are ufually round , for it con- 

 tained but half a Circle , being left open to the Sea-fide. The Turks have almoft 

 quite deftroy'd it : making ufe of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from thé 

 City, upon the Gulf, where the paflage is very narrow -, which the Ships are fore'd 

 to falute as they enter in, and to fpeak with when they fail out. Moreover, 

 that they might not be put to fend for Stones a-far off, they confulted whether 

 they might not make ufe of the Stones of the Chriftians Monuments , as alfo of thofe 

 of the Je xvs , which are near the Shore : But they took very few, whether out of 

 kindnefs to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them fo proper for ufe as the 

 Stones of the Amphitheater. This Caftle had not been long built, but upon an occafion 

 very remarkable. In the laft Wars of the Turks with the Venetians , the Ottoman 

 Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago , the Grand Signor refolv'd to re-fit 

 another to Sea , and thereupon fent to all the parts of his Empire, where he knew 

 any Englijh or Holland Veflels ufually were wont to ride , to folicit them to ferve him 

 for his Pay. More particularly he aim'd at thofe Veflels which were in Smyrna y 

 where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains , who 

 rejetted his Propofition of fighting againft the Venetians , believing that he would 

 put fome force upon them , fuddenly hois'd Sail and got away -, it being at a time 

 when he could not keep them in , having no Caftle then built to command them. 

 The Grand Vijier nettl'd at the refufal of the Captains, 'as an affront done to his 

 Matter , and to fee that the Ships could come in and go out , without any let or 

 moleftation , bethought himfelf ( to the end he might keep them for the future under 

 fubjeftion ) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in fuch a part where the Veflels muft 

 neceflarily touch", where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water, which 

 no Vefiel can efcape. Ever fince the Convoys will not come to Smyrna , as they were 

 wont to do , but lye out at Sea , out of the reach of the Fort. 



Near to the Sea are yet to be feen fome Remains of a Church, two fides whereof 

 feem to have been diftinguilh'd into Chappels by little Walls, which are yet (landing : 

 But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St.P^fy- 

 carp, or of an ancient Temple of Janw. 



Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars , or by the Earthquakes 

 which often happen there. One time that I ftaid there , there happen'd one, which 

 did not laft long , but was very terrible. About fixty Paces from the Sea are to be 

 difcern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water j and at the end of the 



City 



