The Persian Travels Book I. 



into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the cuftom of the 

 Armenians , a little before Meals to prefent their Guefts a large Cup of Aqua-vitœ, 

 with Sweet-meats of all forts, befides Citron and Orange-peels candy'd , in feven 

 or eight Porcelan-difhes , laid in a great China-BaCm. This is a little Prelude to 

 excite the Appetite -, for the Armenians, both Men and Women , will empty great 

 Cups of Aqua-vitas. After Dinner they go to Church , where they fing certain 

 Hymns : when you return , there are a futfkient number of Mattreffes or Quilts to 

 lye upon -, for they ufe no other fort of Beds over all Afia : only at Night you lpread 

 a Carpet upon a Quilt, and fhut the Door. We law not the Archbifhop all that 

 Evening, only at Church. 



About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body rofe to go to Church. I 

 believe it was more than ufual , becaufe it was Shrovetide ; for both the Office and 

 the Miffa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the 

 Morning the Cloth was laid -, before which time we law abundanceof the neigbouring 

 Country People , who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Provifions , and prefented 

 all to the Archbifhop. 



While we were at Breakfaft news came that a certain Bifhop was dead , in his 

 return to the Three Churches ; whither he was fent by the Patriarch to gather certain 

 Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbifhop rifing from the Table 

 with all his Affiftants , and having made a Prayer for the Dead , fent a Bifhop and 

 fix Monks to fetch the Corps -, who returning a little after Midnight , the Body 

 was prefently laid in the Church upon a Carpet fpread upon the Ground , with the 

 Face turn'd toward the Altar. In the mean time , a great number of Wax-candles 

 were lighted , and all the reft of the Night two Monks watch'd by turns to Pray for 

 the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbifhop, the Bifhops and all in Religious 

 Orders, faid the Office for the Dead, which lafted half an Hour-, and at the end. 

 of the Mais they brought the Corps to the Altar, fo that they made the Feet of the 

 Corps to touch it. Having fo done , they took off the Linnen Cloth that covcr'd 

 his Head , at which time the Archbifhop anointed him in fix places with the Holy 

 Oyl, faying certain Prayers every time. Then they cover'd him again, and faid other 

 Prayers which lafted half an Hour. Theie Ceremonies perform'd, theycarry'd the 

 Corps out of the Church with Croffes and Banners , and every one a Taper in his 

 Hand. As the Corps pafs'd by, one of the Bifhops put a Paper in his right Hand, 

 containing thefc Words, I came jrem the Father, and I return to the Father. Being 

 brought to the Graved upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and let down, they 

 faid other Prayers which lafted a quarter of an Hour. In the mean time a Bifhop 

 going down into the Grave , took away all the Stones and made the place finooth, 

 after which the Corps was let down wrapt in a large Linnen Sheet. Then the Bifhop, 

 according to their cuftom, rais'd his Head a little higher than his Body, turning 

 his Face to the Eaft. Which being done , the Archbifhop and Affiftants took every 

 one a handful of Earth , which the Archbifhop bleft , and giving it to the Bifhop, 

 he ftrew'd it over the Body. Then the Bifhop coming out again , the Grave was 

 fill'd up. 



From St. Stephen's there is a defcent for a League together to Aras , by the fide 

 whereof you are to keep along till you come to Z-ulfa , where you come into the 

 high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain , which is the 

 nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troublefom and toylfom, and therefore the 

 lefs frequented. 



But to return to the High-Road from Nahsivan ; half a League from Naknvan 

 you meet with a River which falls into Aras, which is to be crofs'd over a Stone- 

 Bridge of 1 2 Arches , though there be but little Water, unlefs it be when the Snow 

 melts , or the Rains fall. In a Meadow, next the Bridge , where we lodg'd one 

 time that I travell'd that way, there is a Spring of lukewarm Water , which will 

 loofen the Bellies of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer 

 comesand takes his Duties, when the Caravan (lays not at Naksivan. You muft 

 pay ten Abaffs for every Camel's Loading , or nine Livres , which is for the fe- 

 curing the Highways. Thefe Duties are demanded in many places of Perfia with- 

 out fearching the Packs. The Governours alfo in their Provinces are made to anfwer 

 for every Robbery committed : which makes it fo fafe travelling in Perfa, that you 

 need not keep with the Caravan , unlefs you will your felf. 



From 



