6 



The Persian Travels Book I. 



was , that we met the Grand Vifar returning from Hunting , with a Train of four 

 hundred men : lb foon as he perceiv'd us, he fil'd off all his men to give us liberty 

 to pafs by. But among all the Company, there was not above four Frar.'ks upon 

 which he particularly caft his Eye j which made him fend for the Caravan "Bachi to 

 know who we were. The Caravan Bachi , to avoid the ill Confequences of jealoufie 

 which the Vifer might have of the Franks , at a time when the Grand fijier made 

 War in Ferfia , told him we were Jews ; at which the Vifier, making his Head, 

 reply'd only that we did not look like fuch , and happy it was for us that he took 

 no farther notice. For it was twenty to one , but that upon better confideration 

 he might have fent after us to have ftopt us. But when he came home to his 

 Lodging he found a Capigi ftaying for him , with Orders from the Grand Signor to 

 take off his Head , which were prefently executed. For Amnrath being troubl'd 

 for the lofs of his Army, had no way but to revenge himfelf upon the perfon that 

 had the command of it. 



Notwithflanding that the Caravans reft at Tocat, yet they ftay likewife two or 

 three days at Gharhliqueu , which is not above two Leagues diftant from it; for 

 Chartyiqwu is a great Town in a lovely Country, between two fertil HiHs, where 

 there grows excellent Wine. It is for the raoft part inhabited by Ghriftians, who 

 are generally Tanners. The fine blew Goat-leather Skins being dreft in Tocat, 

 and the Parts thereabout. It is thought the Water contributes very much to their 

 Art. For Tocat is as famous for the blew Goats-leather Skins , as Diarbeqnir and 

 Bagdat are for the red , Mouftul or the ancient Niniveh for the yellow, and Ourfa 

 for the black. About two thoufand Paces from this Town , in the midft of a Plain 

 rifes a vaft Rock , upon the North-fide whereof you afcend about nine or ten fteps 

 into a Chamber with a Bed , a Table , and a Cupboard in it, all hewn out of the 

 Rock. Upon the Weft-fide you afcend other five or fix fteps that lead to a little 

 Gallery, about five or fix Foot long, and three broad, all hewn out of the Rock, 

 though it be of an extraordinary hardnefs. The Chriftians affirm that St. Chryfoftom 

 made this Rock his retiring-place during his Exilement, and that he had no other 

 Bed or Bolfter than the Rockitfelf, in a place where they fhew you the print of 

 a Man's Body. Hence it is, that the Caravans, confifting for the moft part of Chriftian 

 Merchants , ftay at CharkUqueu , to pay their Devotions to this Rock , where the 

 Bifhop of the place, attended by fome Priefts, with every one a Taper in their 

 Hands, goes and fays Mafs. But theraainReafonis, becaufe there grows excellent 

 Wine in this place , which being cheaper by half here , than it is at Tocat , obliges 

 the Armenians to ftop here , to provide thernfelves for the reft of their Journey. 



Two Leagues from CharkUqueii , you crofs over very high Mountains , with Pre- 

 cipices on both fides. It is the cuftom of the Armenians , when they hear of the 

 approach of a Caravan, to ride out two or three days journey to meet their Coun- 

 try-men and carry them frefhProvifions. Thofe of Charkliquen coming to meet our 

 Caravan, three of the Armenians took a large Mornings-draught, which made 

 them io Pot-valiant , that they would needs ride before to the Town alone by thern- 

 felves*, but by the way they were fet upon by fix Horfe-men that came from the 

 North, where there are higher Mountains than thofe which we were to crofs. Immé- 

 diately the Thieves darted their Half-Pikes at the Armenians , in fo much that two 

 of them fell down mortally wounded , and the other fav'd himfelf among the 

 Rocks, but the Thieves got their Horfes and Goods, which were valu'd at ten thou- 

 fand Crowns. The Caravan at the top of the Hill beheld the misfortune of thofe 

 poor men which their own folly had brought upon them , but could not help them, 

 by reafon of the narrownefs of the ways ; befides , that the Thieves knowing all the 

 by-turnings, were prefently out of fight. And therefore it is a dangerous thing 

 to leave the Body of the Caravan , either by ftaying too far behind , or running 

 too faft before: and fome have fuffer'd for diftancing thernfelves not above five hun- 

 dred Paces from it. 



The Caravans do not make their Journeys all alike -, but come to their Stages 

 fometimes fooner, fometinaes later, according as they meet with Water and Inns, 

 or places fit to pitch their Tents in , to which places the Natives bring Provifion 

 and Provender from the Mountains. There are fome places where there is a necef- 

 fity to provide Straw and Barley for two or three days. If you travel in May, 

 when the Grafs is high , it cofts nothing to feed the Horfes and Camels. For as 



