Chap. IV. of Monfieur Tavernier. 71 



Capuchin! , where I faw an Armenian Bifhop, with his Miter, and a wooden Crofier, 

 accompany'd with feveral Pricfts and a good Congregation. When Service was 

 done, after fome few Compliments between us, he Jed us down under the Church 

 into a Chappel , where he fhew'd fts the Sepulchcr of St. James Bifhop of Nifibis. 

 In thé Church-yard is a Stone about a Foot thick, and fix high-, upon which were 

 laid feveral Candles of Wax and Tallow, which the Poor Offer in their Neceffities, 

 but especially in their Sickncfies. They believe that Stone to have been the Pedeftal 

 for the Statue of fome Saint, which the Turks have defae'd : fo that thev give*the 

 iàme Honour to the Pedeftal , as they would have giv'n to the Statue. There are 

 alfo lbme Roman Characters to be feen , but half worn out , and fpaces brok'n off 

 in fome parts : fo that I could not learn, in Honour of whom that Statue was erected. 

 Half a League from Nifbin runs a River, which you crol's , over a Stone-Bridge. In 

 the way to the River are feveral pieces of Wall, with an Arch , which made me con- 

 jecture, that formerly the City extended as far as the River. 



Twice Musket-fhot from the River, you meet with a Stone, half buried, upon 

 which are written certain Latin Words \ whereby it appears that it was the Tomb- 

 ftone of the General of an Army that was a French-man : but I could not read his 

 Name, which time had defae'd. The lame Bifhop informed usj that formerly the 

 Moors having befieg'd the City, there came fuch a prodigious company of ftrange 

 Flyes, and did fo torment both Men and Horles, that they were fore'd to raiie 

 the Siege. You muft pay the fame Toll at Nijbin as in other places, that is, two 

 Piaflers and a half, for every Mule or Horles Load. We lay there three days toge- 

 ther , to furnifh our lelves with Provifions 'till we came to Moujfd , which is five clays 

 journey from Nijbin; the Country between being altogether defert and uninha- 

 bited. There is no Water to be found but in two places, and that not very good 

 neither : near to which you fhall lee fome few Hcrdfmen grazing their Cattel. 



The nrft of April we departed from Nijbin ; and after we had travel'd eleven 

 hours , we lay near to a River , whither certain Shepherds brought us Hens to 

 fell. 



The fécond we travel'd ten hours , and lay at a paltry Town , where we met 

 with nothing to eat. 



The third we travel'd thirteen hours , and lodg'd by a pitiful Fountain, the Water 

 whereof was hardly good enough for our Horles. 



The fourth we travel'd ten hours, and came to lodge by the Bank of a little River, 

 near to which appear'd the Ruines of a Bridge and a Caftle. 



The fifth we travel'd eleven hours , to reach Moujfd, which is not far from the 

 ancient Niniveh. 



Moujfd rs a City that makes a great Ihew without, the Walls being of Free-ftone - 7 

 but within it is almoft all ruin'd , having only two blind Market-places , with a 

 little Caftle upon the Tigris, where the Baffja lives. In a word , there is nothing 

 worth a Man's fight in Moujfd , the place being only confiderable for the great 

 concourfe of Merchant's -, efpecially the Arabians and Curds , which are the Inha- 

 bitants of the ancient Ajfyria , now ca\M Curdijtan, where there grows great plenty 

 of Galls , and for which there is a great Trade. There are in it four forts of 

 Chriftians , Cjreeks , Armenians , Neflorians , and Maronites. The Capuchins had a 

 pretty Dwelling upon the Tigris ; but the Baflra laying a Fine upon them , becaufe 

 they went about a little to enlarge it, they were fore'd to quit it. The City is 

 govern'd by a.Bajha, that has under him, part Janizaries, part Spahfs, about three 

 thoufand Men. 



There are only two fcurvy Inns in Moujfd , which being full when we came , I 

 caus'd my Tent to be fetup at the Meydan, or great Market-place. 



Now to fay fomething in general of the difference of the two Rivers , Tigris and 

 Euphrates, in reference to their Courfe and Waters : I obferv'd that the Water of 

 Euphrates appear'd fomewhat red - , and that the Stream was not fo fwift as that of 

 Tigris, which feem'd to be whitifh, like the Loire. As for its Courfe, Euphrates 

 runs a far longef way than Tigris. But now let us crofs the Tigris , over a Bridge 

 of Boats , to view the fad Ruines of a City that has made fuch a noile in the World j 

 though there be now fcarce any appearance of its ancient fplendour. 



Niniveh was built upon the left Shoar of the Tigris, upon Ajfyria-bde, being now 

 only a heap of Rubbifh extending almoft a League along the River. There are 



abundance 



