Chap. VII. of Monfîeur Tavernier. 85 



having beheld fo diftiial a Spectacle, artd knowing the Grand Signor was preparing 

 for a general Aflauft , would not obey their new Kan , but began to aft like Re- 

 volted and to that purpofe they agreed to deliver up the City, upon condition 

 they might march away with their Arms and Baggage : but the Turks did not keep 

 their words. For fo loon as the Turks were got into the City, the Bâfra** told the 

 Grand Signor, that to weak'n the force of the Per/tan , it was necefifary for him 

 to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City : and thereupon there 

 were above twenty thoufand maflacr'd in cold Blood. The Turks had feiz'd upon 

 the Capuchins Manfion , but Signor Michael chief of the Canoneers , got it to be 

 reftor'd them again. 



As to the Civil Government of Bagdat , there is none but a Cody, who does all, 

 àfting even the Mufti , with a Shiekelafion or Tefterdar , who receives the Revenues 

 of the Grand Signor. There are in it five Mofyuees , of which two are indifferently 

 well built, and adorn'd with Duomo's cover'd with varnifh'd Tiles of different colours. 

 There are alio ten Inns , all ill built, except two, which are reafonably convenient. 

 In general, the City is ill built -, there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars, 

 which are all arch'd -, elfe the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats. 

 They rauft alfo be water'd three or four times a day -, for which office lèverai poor 

 people are hir'd upon the publick charge. The City is full of Trade , but not fo full 

 as it was, when in the hands of the King of -Per fia : for when the Turk^ took it, he 

 kilPd moft of the richeft Merchants. However there is a great confluence thither 

 from all Parts -, whither for Trade , or for Devotions fake , I cannot tell : becaufe 

 they that follow the Seft of Holy , do believe that Haly Iiv'd at Bagdat. Befides, 

 all they that are defirous to go to Mecca by Land , rauft pafs through Bagdat , where 

 every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piafiers to theBafrd. You muft take notice that 

 there are in Bagdat two forts of Mah$metans , the firft are call'd Rafedfs , or Here- 

 ticks*, the fécond , OWervers of the Law, in all things like thofe at Conjiantinople. 

 The Rafedi*s will by no means eat or drink with a Chriftian , and very hardly with 

 the reft of the Mahometans ; or if they do happ'n to drink out of the fame Cup, 

 or to touch them , they prefently walh themfelves , as believing themfelves unclean. 

 The others are not lb fcrupulous, but eat and drink and converfe with all the 

 World. In the year 1 639, after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat, a Aafedi who 

 was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink , who defir'd it of 

 him in the Market-place , but abus'd him alio in words. Thereupon the Jew com- 

 plain'd to the Cady, who immediately fent for him , and caus'd his Boracho and his 

 Cup to be brought along with him*, when he came before him, he ask'd for his Cup, 

 and gave the Jew to drink , and then made the Porter drink alfo out of the fame 

 Cup: After that, he order'd the Rafedi to be Baftinado'd , and this Leflbri to be 

 taught him while he was chaftifing, That we are all God's Creatures, as well Maho* 

 met ans, as Chriftians and Jews. This has made them lefs zealous in their Superftition, 

 though they are the chiefeft part of the Inhabitants of the City. 



As to their Funerals, I have particularly obferv'd , that when the Husband dyes, 

 the Wife pulls off all her Head-gear , and lets her Hair fall about her Ears *, then 

 (he all befmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle , and having fo done , frisks and 

 leaps about after fuch a ridiculous manner, as from others would rather produce 

 laughter than tears. All the kindred , friends and neighbours meet at the Houfe of 

 the deceas'd , and ftay for the Celebration of the Funeral. At what time the Wo- 

 men ftrive to out-vie one another in a thoufand Apifh tricks, clapping their Cheeks, 

 yelling like mad people 4 , and then of a fudden fetting themfelves to dance to the 

 found of two Drums , like thofe which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry, upon which 

 the Women beat for a quarter of an hour. Among them there is one more ac- 

 cuftom'd to this fool'ry than the reft , that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns 1 to 

 which other Women make anfwer, by redoubling their Cries, which may be heard at 

 a great diftance. It would then be a vain thing to feek to comfort the Children 

 of the deceas'd -, for they feem to be fo much befide themfelves , that they are not 

 in a condition to hear any thing: And they are oblig'd to carry themfelves in that 

 manner, unlefs they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindneft for 

 their Parents. When the Corps is carry'd to thé Grave , abundance of poor people 

 go before with Banners , and Crefcents at the ends of Sticks , finging moft difmaï 

 Dirges all the way. The Women are not to be at the Inrerrment % who are not 



