474 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[June 23, 1887, 



fag mid 



Address att communications to tl>e Forest and Stream Pvb. Co. 



IN THE CHEROKEE STRIP.-I. 



TO my mind the Indian Territory presented always a 

 beautiful, though vague and mysterious, appearance. 

 That was when I was a boy, and used to read and dream 

 about it. Even in late years— so strongly does an early, 

 perhaps whimsical, idea of an unknown country often 

 take hold of one— whenever I thought of the Indian Terri- 

 tory there came before me a picture of long, undulating 

 reaches of grassy plains, broken by lines of noble forest 

 growth, by clear streams and lovely interglades of level. 

 And always, over the picture, softening every high light, 

 lending its tone to every shadow, hung a deep, myster- 

 ious half veil of misty blue, dark, yet not unpleasing to 

 the sense. 



There are no seasons in the imagination, and my youth's 

 picture was the same for all the year. Perhaps in the 

 summer it may not be so very far wrong. Certainly, a 

 couple of months ago, as I for the first time crossed the 

 line into the "Nation," in the depth of wintertime, some 

 points of the old picture showed true. There were the 

 long sweeps of grass land, the bold lines of the timbered 

 streams, the wide level plains; and, to verify the whole, 

 over all hung a faint haze of blue, which deepened in the 

 background into purple, royal purple, blue-black. It 

 seemed then as if I already knew the country, though I 

 afterward found that the peculiar blue haze arose from 

 the effect on the atmosphere of the large burned districts 

 which had lately been involved in the disastrous fires that 

 had swept across the range; which latter had been set out 

 by the fire-spitting monster of the railroad, that has 

 already laid its serpent trail across the Cherokee Strip as 

 far down as the Cimarron River. 



Those who love a greyhound will remember that at the 

 meet of the American Coursing Club, held at Great Bend, 

 Kan., last October, the greyhounds of Mr. M, E. Allison 

 quite bore away the honors. These hounds, the product 

 <K fifteen years of breeding and hunting, are known all 

 over Kansas, and have killed all sorts of big game in all 

 sorts of places. Mr. Allison had hun ted with them over 

 the very ground which we now proposed to visit. It was 

 while describing this hunt to myself and my friend and 

 partner, Mr. J. A. Richer, the artist, that our comments 

 induced him to form the notion of showing us a little fun 

 with the same dogs and in the same country. Where- 

 after ensued tedious struggles to escape the fiend, Busi- 

 ness. But at last we all did escape, or told each other that 

 we had. At that time I found myself at Kiowa, on the 

 border line, and here I was picked up by my friends, who 

 came with the team overland from Hutchinson, two days' 

 drive. 



I found that the conveyance selected was a sort of Black 

 Maria, a stout Surrey wagon covered with black curtains 

 and fitted with light sideboards. The two ponies which 

 pulled it were, declared — by the liveryman — to be of the 

 reversible sort, such as might be either ridden or driven. 

 Inside the Black Maria were the two men, a few blankets 

 and three greyhounds, in which latter I recognized the 

 champion dog Sandy Jim, his runner-up Terry and the 

 old veteran Mike. Behind the vehicle, coupled close to- 

 gether, trotted Buck and Drum, two trail hounds of such 

 preternatural solemnity of countenance that I could never 

 keep from smiling whenever I looked at them. These 

 two foxhounds, coupled together as they were, always 

 gravely, diligently and promptly whipped any dog which 

 pitched upon them along the road, and then at once re- 

 lapsed into mournfulness again. By the side of the team 

 trotted old John, Mr. Allison's bay hunter, with ears 

 thrown forward and eyes alert. John loves to hunt as 

 well as anybody, and he and the dogs have a perfect un- 

 derstanding with each other. 



Well, as I said, the Indian land showed blue as we 

 rolled across the line. Our noses looked blue also, though, 

 perhaps, not so picturesque. The thermometer was six 

 below zero, and there was such a wind as only blows in 

 the wide southwest. We found our curtained Black 

 Maria very comfortable, however, though the poor grey- 

 hounds shivered pitifully. As soon as we had crossed the 

 big wire gate which let us into the territory (for, as will 

 presently appear, the Cherokee strip is only a big cattle 

 pasture all under fence), we tied the foxhounds to the 

 wagon, and kept the greyhounds inside for fear of poison. 

 The coyote industry is a, very prominent one in those 

 parts, and we did not know when a dog might pick up a 

 wolf bait and be gathered unto his fathers. And when a 

 dog has as many fathers as some of oiu's had, in his pedi- 

 gree, you don't want him gathered unto them. But, un- 

 der any circumstances, the greyhounds would have rid- 

 den, for they were all more or less crippled up, by reason 

 of recent argument with certain coyotes up around Hutch- 

 inson. Mike had been further lamed by a severe fall 

 while running on ice; it is a question if he ever will get 

 over this sprain, which is in his left hind leg. Jim was 

 badly bitten up, and had a very tender ankle. Terry— 

 not held to be so fast as either of the others — was the only 

 one in fair condition. He seemed to be feeling pretty 

 well, and lay on top of the other dogs, looking up at lis 

 intelligently and grinning perpetually. Terry has a 

 peculiar undershot jaw, which gives him a strange look; 

 but his eye is large and soft, and he is a singularly affable 

 sort of a dog, so to speak, for a greyhound. Mike is very 

 dignified, and won't speak to you without an introduc- 

 tion; if you ride well in the chase he will notice you a little. 



They say that Mr. Allison always allows his greyhounds 

 to ride, and, in fact, sometimes walks in order to leave 

 room for them hi the wagon. I do not know how that is; 

 but I do know that a greyhound, even a big and strong 

 one, is a running machine that is very liable to get out of 

 order; for be it but a toe nail which is missing or injured, 

 the machine is not at its best. 



It was high noon when we rolled out of Kiowa, and 2 

 o'clock when we stopped at Mul? Creek for a particularly 

 frigid cold lunch. I should state that we were not intend- 

 ing to make a camping trip of it, but planned to stop at 

 cattle camps during our time out. We were headed for 

 the Cimarron River, and expected to do most of our hunt- 

 ing on the range of the 2 1 ranch. (Only tenderfeet 

 speak of a ranch by any name olher than its brand). The 

 2 1 brand is the sign manual of the Messrs. Greever, 

 from one of whom Mr. Allison had received a cordial in- 

 vitation to come and bring his dogs, which invitation was 



seconded by Mr. T. H. Kirkpatrick, the foreman of the 

 ranch, whom, by the way, we met at Kiowa. Just before 

 we reached Mule Creek we passed Mr. Greever posting in 

 for Kiowa to catch a train, and had but time for a hurried 

 How!" as we passed. We were, however, nothing 

 daunted by the fact that our host was not at home. We 

 just kept right on. That is the way they do in the cattle 

 country. 



It was some forty-five miles from Kiowa to the 2 1 

 ranch and the nearest stopping place out was at the Eagle 

 Chief Pool, a distance of twenty-five miles. It should be 

 understood that the "pool" part of this name has refer- 

 ence only to the company of cattlemen along Eagle 

 Chief Creek, who have joined their assets and have 

 agreed to stand each his pro rata in the expenses of the 

 lease, fencing, ranch expenses, etc. There are several 

 "pool outfits" in the "Strip." 



At the risk of offending such as are anxious only for a 

 hunt, I would perhaps better pause long enough to say a 

 few words about the Cherokee Strip and the tenure "under 

 which it is held by the cattlemen, for it must be remem- 

 bered that there is not an Indian in the whole of -that 

 great section of country, it being all leased to the cattle- 

 men by the Cherokee people. 



The rental paid by the cattlemen is two cents per acre — 

 a ridiculous amount; yet one which affords the tribe an 

 enormous income per annum; while it affords the cattle- 

 men the opportunity of actually raising an animal to 

 maturity for less than the taxes would amount to in the 

 State of Kansas. Of course the cattlemen of the Strip 

 pay no taxes at all. Blessed men. They have found 

 Elysium on earth. Natura'ly, they want the lease re- 

 newed at its expiration — which occurs in a little less than 

 two years. Politics will have much" to do with it. If the 

 Cherokees sell the land to the United States it is all over 

 with the cattlemen. But if the matter is left with old 

 Bushy-head, the present chief of the Cherokees, the lease 

 will possibly be continued. Bushy-head is well educated 

 and eminently level-headed. His views on the land ques- 

 tions were well A r oiced by his sub-chief — not so well edu- 

 cated as himself — who thus replied to the embassy of a 

 certain syndicate who have long had their eyes on that 

 favored country: 



"Mebbe so Injun got hen," said he. "Mebbe so hen lay 

 um egg. Injun take um egg in two, four week; buy um 

 tobacco. Injun smoke ; have a good time. Mebbe so 

 Injun sell um hen. Get plenty dollar. Buy um plenty 

 tobacco ; have heap fun. Bine-by tobacco all gone. No 

 have um egg, no have um hen !" 



The red philosopher has the fable of the goose with the 

 golden egg dead to rights though he never heard of that 

 celebrated fowl. His understanding, thus formulated, is 

 the hope of the cattlemen. 



The apportionment among the cattlemen of the land 

 embraced under the lease was effected by mutual consent, 

 or by arbitration, each " outfit " receiving what seemed 

 fair for its count of cattle. Ten acres is the nominal al- 

 lowance per head, but most of the ranges afford fifty 

 acres per head. In case of heavy fires, one man may have 

 to take the greater part of his ' ' neighbor's " cattle upon 

 his range. This is alw T ays done cheerfully. No class of 

 men stand together so well as the cattlemen. 



In establishing the lines of the different ranches, the 

 survey committee followed the trend of the "divides." 

 All the ranches are fenced. This whole great strip of 

 country, big as a State, is crossed and threaded by wire 

 fences. It is one enormous cattle preserve. 



It is a game preserve, also. Into it no hunter is allowed 

 to go under penalty of confiscation of his arms and prop- 

 erty. Of course, the law is continually violated. 

 "Granger" hunters come out every fall with wagon loads 

 of deer. But let them come under the knowledge or the 

 displeasure of a cattleman, and if the cowboys did not 

 run them off at once, a word would bring a band of 

 soldiers down on the gallop, and a very serious trouble 

 would be the result. Some heavy confiscations have been 

 made this fall, and the ignorant or wilful hunter has 

 more than once learned that it won't do to kick against 

 Uncle Sam-. 



Against any unpleasantness of this sort the members of 

 our party were provided with proper passes, authorizing 

 us to pass ' 'Into and through the Indian Territory for the 

 purposes of hunting and landscaping." As we met no 

 soldiers during the whole trip, we were not called upon 

 to produce the passes. Even had we not had them, we 

 could perhaps have smuggled ourselves in as guests of the 

 ranch. It is the marauding market hunter and game 

 butcher against whom the soldiers have a grudge. They 

 can tell one as soon as they see him, and once a darky 

 soldier gets behind him with a gleaming bayonet, the 

 butcher hunter is sure to march. I suppose there are 

 times when officers are blind in the Territory as well as 

 elsewhere; but if any one should ask how he could be as- 

 sured of a safe trip into that country, and how he could 

 arrange it, I would only say, don't go at all, unless you 

 are on friendly terms with some cattleman. There are 

 trappers and skunk hunters on the range in the Strip, who 

 have been camped there all winter. They have no right 

 there, but the cattlemen do not complain of them; per- 

 haps because they kill coyotes, and coyotes kill calves. 

 The 2 1 outfit do not allow hunting on their range— an 

 exception was made in our case. The range is therefore 

 better stocked with game than perhaps any other in the 

 whole Cherokee Strip. 



For the 2 1 range, then, under the circumstances here- 

 inbefore set forth, we were, 1 believe, en route at the 

 time the narrative stopped for lunch at Mule Creek, 



Our piratical craft sailed over the six or eight miles of 

 divide which lie between Mule Creek and the Salt Fork, 

 and there met the first trouble of the day. The ice was 

 very smooth and our ponies sorely disliked to venture 

 upon it. A horse on ice is not a graceful object, especi- 

 ally when he assumes a supine position and waves his 

 legs over Ins stomach as a signal of distress. 



It was sundown, and we were very cold and quite 

 chilled through when — having by great good fortune 

 taken the right trail at a dubious cross road — we pulled 

 through the gate into the Eagle Chief "pasture'' (of some 

 fifty or sixty square miles) and sighted the ranch house. 

 A half dozen big greyhounds came out and greeted us 

 noisily, but no sign of life appeared about the house. We 

 were not acquainted with any of the owners here; but, 

 according to the fashion of the country, had appointed 

 this as a stopping place for the night. However, we met 

 a rather funny rebuff here at first. Mr. Allison, while we 

 others were unhitching the team , stepped up to the door 

 of the house and knocked. 



" Come in," said a voice. He did so, and espied a soli- 

 tary figure sitting by the fireplace reading, which figure 

 paid no attention to Mm — not even glancing up from the 

 book. 



" Can we stay over night with you?" asked Mr. Allison. 

 " SJpose so." 



" Where shall we put our team ?" 

 " Anywhere you please." 

 " Bring our traps in here?" 

 "Anywhere you please." 

 "Can we get some horse feed ?" 

 "S'pose so." 



Mr. Allison turned to go out. The young man looked 

 up and said : " Got any chuck ?" Mr. Allison intimated 

 that we had not ; that we intended to secure that at the 

 ranches, but that we wished to pay for what we got. 



"Oh, we aint that kind of an outfit," said the other. 

 Then, as Mr. Allison murmured something about cooking, 

 he inquired : 



" Amt you as able to cook as I am?" 



Here, indeed, was off-hand hospitality ! Our embassy 

 returned a little bit confused. We resolved next time 

 to send Ricker, who was the good-looking man of the 

 party, and who, as we jokingly told Mr. Allison, didn't so 

 nearly resemble a horse thief. However, we attended to 

 our team, making it comfortable in the ranch stables, and 

 then sought again our new friend, who was now out cut- 

 ting wood. We further introduced ourselves as having 

 been sent to the Eagle Chief by Mr. Kirkpatrick, of 

 the 2 1 . 



"You know old man Kirk? Come in, fellows," said our 

 host. And we were at once made debtors to the universal 

 popularity which Mr. Kirkpatrick has, not only on the 

 2 1 ranch, but all over the range. 



We now transacted the formalities customary on the 

 range, and soon we got pretty well acquainted with our 

 entertainer, who thawed out rapidly and at once showed 

 himself a very jolly fellow. He explained to .us, as he 

 went on cooking supper — he had had his own supper be- 

 fore we came— that there had not been more than two 

 days in as many months when he had not had somebody 

 come in on him. "I like, to have company," said he, 

 "when they're like you fellows and amount to something; 

 but there's all sorts in this country, you know, and half 

 or them just make a convenience of a cow outfit." At 

 this we again had a laugh at Mr. Allison, and advised him 

 to have his hair cut. There was not, however, very much 

 room for criticism, for our cold weather clothes gave us 

 all the appearance of hard citizens. We were not beauti- 

 ful. But at the supper table we showed ourselves useful. 

 Young Mason — for such was his name — cooked a big pan 

 of biscuits (hot bread is the only kind known on the 

 range) and these, though far outnumbering us, we routed 

 ignominiously, together with much other slaughter. 



After business session we spent the evening in talk 

 about the big fireplace. The ranch house had but two 

 rooms, and was built of boards and cracks. Mason in- 

 formed us that he was alone most of the time in that one 

 of the Eagle Chief camps at that season of the year. He 

 had that day broken the monotony by taking the hounds 

 out for a run, and had killed two coyotes. He told us 

 that game was no longer plentiful on the Eagle Chief, 

 The turkeys were nearly all killed off along the stream, 

 where lately there were so many that he used often to 

 run them down with horse and hounds (a feat not diffi- 

 cult on open country). Mason also reported plenty of 

 poison above and below on the creek, and warned us that 

 one range, which we were to cross on the following day, 

 was full" of poison. 



We spent the evening pleasantly in comparing and dis- 

 cussing our pistols and rifles, aid in talking over the cat- 

 tle business. Then, having got our bearings for the re- 

 mainder of our journey to the Cimarron, we folded each 

 the drapery of his couch about him and lay down to 

 pleasant dreams. E. Hough. 



BISON IN THE PARK. 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, June 14.— 

 Editor Forest and Stream: Having occasion to re- 

 main a few days at the Lower Geyser Basin, I took advan- 

 tage of this opportunity to look up the bison. Starting out 

 with the government scout to the south and west, we saw 

 the first signs of bison three miles from the hotel. They 

 had rubbed and scratched themselves against small pine 

 trees, breaking the tops off and the limbs down, and 

 using the stumps to rub against, leaving bunches of hair 

 all around. Some of the trees were 4in. in diameter 

 where broken off. In soft sandy places we found 

 "wallows," where the bison had pawed and rolled until 

 they had made quite a hole in the ground, some 10ft. in 

 diameter, and from 1 to 2ft. deep, the soil being well 

 mixed with hair, giving it the appearance of a mortar 

 bed. Following up the sign, we came to places where 

 they had bedded during the winter on warm sunny hill- 

 sides and sheltered nooks. .Some of the tracks we saw 

 were immense, 6 and 7in. wide, made by bulls: others were 

 smaller, made by cows. Often we saw many fresh elk 

 tracks, but we paid no attention to them, as we were not 

 out to hunt elk, but buffalo. Soon we came to bison sign, 

 made that morning, and not over three hours old, where 

 they had been feeding in openings and willow marshes. 

 While trailing them up we were overtaken by a severe 

 snow squall, which lasted about twenty minutes. When 

 this was over, we concluded to tie up our horses and take 

 up the trail on foot, as the horses made too much noise 

 going through the timber, and we were conQdent we 

 were close on the bison. Our object being to see them, 

 and, if possible, to avoid frightening them, we securely 

 fastened our stock, made a short detour, and approached 

 the opening in which we thought to find the bison feeding. 



We crossed a wide trail used by the bison in winter, 

 and several fresh trails. Cautiously moving forward we 

 came out to the open swamp, wdien my attention was at- 

 tracted by a crackling in some timber ahead, where some 

 large animal was moving. At first we did not notice 

 anything in the opening, and so moved forward to see 

 what was ahead. When we were about ten yards out 

 from the timber, picking our way through the swamp and 

 examining the fresh tracks, Wilson the scout noticed a 

 buffalo to our left, a fine four or five-year-old bull, less 

 than a hundred yards off, quietly feeding. We used out- 

 field glasses and had a good chance to examine him. He 

 was very fat and in splendid condition, but not shed-off, 

 except that the rump had lost the winter coat. The rest 

 of his body was covered with the old hair which, except- 

 ing that around his head and neck, was much faded and 



