Growing ilueberries 



These instructions apply to Rayner's hardy, 

 top-quality plants. Be sure to prune about half 

 of top from large bushes before planting. 



WHERE BLUEBERRIES CAN BE GROWN: 



The varieties of blueberries we offer will grow 

 well from North Carolina to Maine and west- 

 ward to Michigan and Missouri. They also grow 

 well in parts of California, Oregon, and Washing- 

 ton. For best fruit production blueberries re- 

 quire full sunlight. The best time to plant is early 

 spring. Frost or snow will not harm newly planted 

 blueberries. 



SOIL ACIDITY: One of the most important 

 factors in successful blueberry culture is to use 

 acid soil — a pH range of 4.0 to 5.5 is considered 

 best. Many soils naturally have this much acidi- 

 ty, but in many areas where blueberries could 

 otherwise grow well the soil is not sufficiently 

 acid. For small-scale plantings this difficulty can 

 be readily overcome. One of the best methods is 

 to dig a hole about 18 in. deep and about the same 

 in width. Mix half of this soil with well-rotted 

 leaf mold or peat and then mix in 3 oz. ammonium 

 sulfate fertilizer plus \i lb. of cottonseed meal. 

 Replace this mixture in the hole and set the plant 

 properly, and you have overcome the main prob- 

 lem in growing blueberries. 



DRAINAGE: Cultivated blueberries require a 

 uniform supply of moisture but they will not 

 tolerate poorly drained or soggy soil. Avoid 

 heavy clay soil for large plantings. 



HOW TO PLANT: Jf the roots have become 

 dry in shipment, they should be placed in water 

 for about an hour. Best results are obtained if 

 about half of the top growth is pruned from the 

 plant. This allows the plant to become estab- 

 lished faster and better. It will rapidly make an 

 abundance of new, sturdy growth. After the 

 holes have been dug and the soil prepared as 

 previously described, the plant should be set so 

 that the upper roots are covered by about an inch 

 of soil. It is very important not to set blueberries 

 too deep in the ground, for they may make poor 

 growth or die. It is helpful to water the newly 

 set plant wiui a soluble fertilizer, using about 

 one quart of solution per plant. Next the soil 

 should be firmly packed around the roots and a 

 mound of soil made around the edge of the hole so 

 that the plant can be properly watered during 

 dry weather. Rooted cuttings should be grown 

 for two or three years in a bed containing lots 

 of sawdust plus cottonseed meal and acid fer- 

 tilizer. They can be transplanted as desired. 



In commercial plantings blueberries are usual- 

 ly set 4 ft. apart in the row with 8 to 10 ft. be- 

 tween rows. However, in home gardens they may 

 be arranged in any manner and can be pruned to 

 nearly any desired shape. Blueberries are espe- 

 cially suitable for hedge plantings and other orna- 

 mental uses. 



MULCHING: It is very helpful if a heavy mulch 

 can be maintained around the plants. Any natur- 

 al organic matter is satisfactory. Sawdust — new 

 or old, oak or pine — also gives excellent results 

 and we strongly recommend its use. However, 

 when sawdust is used as a mulch, it is necessary 

 to add extra nitrogen to the soil. For each ton 

 of sawdust approximately 24 lbs. of actual nitro- 

 gen is needed. This can be obtained from 115 lbs. 

 of ammonium sulfate or 72 lbs. of ammonium 

 nitrate. This corresponds to 13 ounces of ammo- 

 nium sulfate per bushel of sawdust or 8 oz. of 

 ammonium nitrate per bushel. Any other type 

 of fertilizing material could be used if the proper 

 amount of nitrogen is provided. 



FERTILIZING: We definitely recommend that 

 blueberries should receive regular fertilizer appli- 

 cations. Use an acid-type, complete fertilizer ear- 

 ly in the spring at the rate of about ^ lb. per 

 each small plant or 3^ lb. for large plants. An- 

 other application in early summer is usually help- 

 ful. Do not apply fertilizer in late summer or fall, 

 since it may make plants tender and thus subject 

 to winter injury. Cottonseed meal, 3^ lb. for 

 young plants and 3^ lb. for old plants, is a com- 

 plete organic fertilizer that is ideal for blue- 

 berries and most other plants. Ammonium sul- 

 fate, 2 oz. per small plant and 14 lb. per large 

 plant, is an excellent commercial fertilizer. About 

 250 lbs. per acre is recommended for large plant- 

 ings. Half should be applied in March or April 

 and the rest during May or June. 



PRUNING: When first planted, about half of 

 the upper branches should be removed. Then 

 during each dormant season further pruning is 

 required. Since blueberries usually make too 

 much top growth, some of this must be thinned 

 out or the fruit will be small. Normally it is best 

 to prune out slender twigs, leaving the heavier 

 stronger growth. Low branches should be re- 

 moved as well as any weak or dead wood. Write 

 for Rayner's Bulletin 23 on blueberry pruning. 



YELLOW FOLIAGE: Blueberries are especially 

 free of disease and insect troubles and thus do 

 not generally require any spraying or dusting. 

 The most common trouble is a yellow color of the 

 leaves (chlorosis). This yellowing can be cor- 

 rected in two ways — one is by making the soil 

 more acid by addition of vinegar or sulphur, 

 and the other is to add iron directly to the plant 

 and to the soil. Yellow leaves will often become a 

 healthy green color within a few days, after iron 

 is added. We recommend iron chelate for this 

 purpose. About 1 level tablespoonful in a gallon 

 of water can be applied to the leaves and soil 

 and will be of much help in improving foliage. 



CROSS-POLLINATION: Since cultivated blue- 

 berries are partly self-sterile it is best to plant at 

 least two varieties for cross-pollination. Any 

 combination of varieties is usually satisfactory. 



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