TRUE-TO-NAME STRAWBERRY PLANTS 



Setting the Plants 



Just before planting, the ground should be har- 

 rowed and made as level as possible. Then mark 

 out the rows and you are ready to plant. The 

 planting is sometimes done with a regular "trans- 

 planter," which requires two horses, driver, and 

 two men to separate the plants and "feed" them. 

 This method is quite successful where the size of the 

 fields makes it practical and where the land is 

 perfectly clear of stumps or other obstructions. 

 Hand-setting is usually best and most satisfactory. 

 A dibble, or trowel, is necessary' Ior making the 

 holes. A flat dibble is best, as this makes an opening 

 that allows the roots to be spread out flat (fan- 

 shaped). After pushing the dibble in, it should be 

 worked a little to make the opening of proper size. 

 Take the plant in the left hand and put it into the 

 hole, so that the crown comes just at the surface. 

 Then remove the dibble and insert it again about 2 

 inches away and pull the soil firmly against the roots. 

 When you get right down at this work, you can 



realize the value of our large, healthy plants with 

 their wonderfully developed root-system. When you 

 see such plants properly planted you wonder how 

 they can fail. They won't. With a little practice a 

 man can set from 2,000 to 2,500 plants in this way 

 in ten hours. 



The Spade Method is also widely used in setting 

 Strawberry plants and differs from this, only in 

 that two men work together, one using the spade 

 and the other handling the plants and firming the 

 ground after plants are set. 



Whatever method is used in setting the plants, 

 it is important to have the roots of the plants wet 

 when they are put in the ground. This is especially 

 important when planting during a dry season. 



It is often helpful to cut off about one-third of 

 the roots for convenience in planting. Where the 

 roots can be put down their full length without 

 doubling them up, this is not necessary. 



A final caution in planting: Have the crown just 

 at the surface of the ground — not below nor above. 



Systems of Planting Strawberries 



There are three general systems of growing Strawberries — the hill system, the hedgerow, and the 

 miatted row. Variations of these are sometimes used, as the twin-hill, and double- or triple-hedge systems. 



1. The Hill System 



This is an intensive system of Strawberry-growing, 

 in which the plants are set in rows 15 to 30 inches 

 apart, with plants 12 to 15 inches apart in the row, 

 as may be desired. All runners are kept removed 

 and no new plants allowed to set, which permits the 

 individual plants to grow very large. It is believed 

 that more and larger fruit of better quality will 

 result. This system requires heavy manuring and 

 fertilizing, as well as constant cultivation and at- 

 tention to runner cutting. These large plants are 

 well supplied with blossoms in the fruiting season 

 and are loaded with fruit later. Fruit from such 

 plants is usually of good size and makes a fine 

 appearance, but the labor item is increased in the 

 production of such fruit. 



The most intensive practical system of Strawberry 

 growing is in rows 24 inches apart. Each main row 

 consists of three rows of plants 12 inches apart, with 

 the plants in each row 12 inches apart and in alter- 

 nate spaces, as in the diagram. 



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A plant is set at each dot. All runners should be 

 kept clipped off. This system requires about 30,000 

 plants per acre, but an enormous amount of truit 

 can be grown on a small area by this method. 



2. The Double, or Twin-Hill 

 System 



This is a modification of the hill system, in which 

 two rows are planted 12 to 15 inches apart and 

 regarded as one row, leaving the regular 24- to 30- 



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— 24"- 



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inch space between this and the next double, or 

 twin row, as in the single-hill system. In the double 

 rows, the plants may be set opposite each other, or 

 may be alternated so as more evenly to divide the 

 space of ground for the plants. Plants are set 12 to 

 15 inches apart in the rows, as desired. This system 

 utilizes space more economically than the hill 

 system. 



3. Single Hedgerow 



This is also an intensive system of Strawberry- 

 growing. The plants are set in rows 2 to 3 feet 

 apart, the plants 20 to 30 inches apart in the row. 

 Each plant is allowed to produce two runners, and 

 only one plant permitted to develop on each runner. 

 These plants are layered in line with the original 

 rows. All other runners and plants are clipped off 

 as soon as produced. 



The advantages of this system are ease of culti- 

 vation of the plants, and the production of larger 

 plants which tend to produce larger fruit. This 

 system is more expensive because strict attention 

 must be given to the cutting of runners. 



4. Double and Triple Hedgerow 



This is similar to the single hedgerow, the differ- 

 ence being that the mother plant is allowed to set 

 either four or six plants, instead of two. The plants 

 are trained to form two or three rows, one in line 

 with the parent plant and a row on eacn side of the 

 mother-plant row parallel to it. The advantages of 

 this system are that it eliminates crowding, the 

 plants are easily cultivated, and it gives a heavier 

 crop of large berries than the single hedgerow. 



5. The Matted Row 



The most common system of Strawberry-growing 

 is in the matted row. This system is particularly 

 popular where berries are grown on large, commer- 

 cial plantations, and where farm labor is scarce 

 and not reliable. Less labor is required in setting 

 and caring for the plants, and the crop of fruit is 

 usually larger. 



