THE W. F. ALLEN CO., SALISBURY, MD. 



Early Planting will pay big. We know this because with our large planting we can- 

 not get them all set at the ideal time. Often an advantage of ten days to two weeks 

 in time of planting will more than offset the benefits of a good dressing of fertilizer on 

 later plantings. This is not theory. It has happened in our experience a number of 

 times. It was true this year. When a plant grower in the latitude of New York or 

 Massachusetts can dig plants, berry growers in those sections should be setting their 

 plants. This is a big advantage we can give growers in those latitudes. We can dig 

 and ship plants earlier and have them right at hand for early planting. 



Early Spring is the logical, natural, most successful and satis- 

 factory time to set strawberry plants. So don't neglect setting 

 some plants this Spring, thinking you can make it up by early 

 Fall planting. It can't be done. 



Setting the Plants. Just before planting, the ground should be harrowed and 

 made as level as possible. Then mark out the rows and you are ready to plant. There 

 are a number of different methods of planting, but an ordinary garden trowel or a 

 flat dibble are the best tools to use. Whatever tool is used try to have the roots of the 

 plant spread out fan-shaped, and be sure to have the crown at the surface of the ground — • 

 not below nor above. 



In some sections where large acreages are planted, a small three furrowed list or 

 row is run up with a plow and then leveled off with a rake or drag. This gives a nice 

 soft planting bed, but unless the ground is quite moist the rows should be run up two 

 or three days before planting to allow the moisture to rise, and then rake off just before 

 planting. Plowing, harrowing thoroughly, and marking off rows is the best for small 

 fields and gardens. It is best for larger fields unless the grower is familiar with other 

 methods that have worked well under his conditions. 



Methods of Training. The matted row, hill, and hedge row systems are most 

 commonly used. We advise the hill and hedge row methods only for those who have 

 used them and found them satisfactory or for those who know of others nearby who 

 have used those methods successfully. They require more time, trouble, and expense. 

 It is claimed for them that they make a larger yield of fine berries. 



We prefer the matted row for both garden and for field culture. The extra foliage 

 protects the fruit from scalding, makes them less sandy after a rain, and with us the 

 yield of large, well-shaped berries is usually greater than with any other system. It is 

 not so important to keep the row narrow, especially if the ground contains plenty of 

 moisture. Varieties with large plants like Big Joe, Ekey, Chesapeake, Wm. Belt, Early 

 Jersey Giant, Paul Jones, etc., rarely get either too wide or too thick. Very vigorous 

 growing varieties that have small plants as, Senator Dunlap, McAlpin, Warfield, etc., 

 on rich ground will set too thickly for fruiting purposes if not kept thinned. 



Probably 90 % of all the strawberries grown in this country are grown in matted 

 rows. Under average conditions we would not want to use any other system. 



Cultivation. Young plants should be cultivated frequently after they begin to 

 grow. This is done not only to keep down weeds and grass, but also, to save more 

 moisture. After heavy rains the soil will become hard and "bake", causing it to dry 

 out quickly and be very cloddy when cultivated, unless the cultivation is done while 

 soil is still damp. So it is best to cultivate as soon after a rain as condition cf the soil VjJI 

 permit. 



In seasons of severe drought constant cultivation keeps a "dust blanket" over the 

 soil and prevents evaporation. So, even if no weeds or grass have started, it is ad- 

 visable to cultivate frequently. 



A hoe and 12-tooth cultivator are the best tools to use. In general, the patch 

 should be cultivated every ten days, or two weeks anyway. Skillful use of the culti- 

 vator will make necessary much less hand-labor. 



Young plants, set out in early spring, will blossom freely at the regular blossoming 

 season, and if not cut off will set and»bear quite a few berries. But it is best to cut these 

 blossoms off so that the plants can make a more vigorous growth and be in better shape 

 to bear a full crop of fine fruit the following spring. 



Manure and Fertilizer. Thorough cultivation is the best treatment for a straw- 

 berry patch. Barnyard manure is the best fertilizer you can apply to the field. Ap- 

 plied broadcast before the plants are set (see Preparing the Land, page 8) is the best 

 way to get them started early and make a good growth. Manure can be applied, as a 

 top dressing on the plants, best in the fall. If handled in this way it acts as a mulch 

 during the winter and is very beneficial to the fruiting beds in the Spring. 



