HARRISONS' NURSERIES, BERLIN, MARYLAND 



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Orchard planting plan, diagonal system. No. 1 trees 

 permanent; No. 3 tree fillers to he removed in about ten 

 years; No. 2 tree fillers to be removed in twenty years. 



cient quantity of loamy soil with water till it makes 

 a thick paste, and dip the roots in this till all are 

 well covered. When planting, take only a few trees 

 out of the trenches at one time, just as \'ou need 

 them. By exposing the roots as little as possible 

 the trees will keep in much better condition. 



Frozen Trees. When trees are frozen in ship- 

 ment, bury the box, with the trees in it, a foot or 

 more deep, that is, cover it with a foot of earth. 



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Orchard planting plan, modified square system. No. 1 

 trees permanent ; No. 3 tree fillers to be removed in about 

 ten years; No. 2 tree fillers to be removed in about twenty 

 years. 40 ft. apart each way is a good distance for perma- 

 nent trees. 



If not possible, put the box in a cellar, where the 

 trees will thaw out slowly. You can leave them 

 there for weeks untouched. After they are thawed 

 out, the root* in each end of the box should be 

 dampened from time to time. When free from 

 frost, trees should be heeled-in at some protected 

 place, if possible. In cold sections, it is a good idea 

 to trench-in trees — roots and branches. In warmer 

 sections, it is enough to cover the roots and lower 



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Orchard planting plan, diagonal system, with two fillers 

 between permanent trees. No. 1 trees permanent; No. 3 

 trees to he removed in eight or ten years; No. 2 trees to 

 be removed in eighteen or twenty years. 



third of the trunks, and let the tops stick out. 

 They will come out fresh in the spring, and with 

 more vitality. A good way is to dig a trench 2 feet 

 deep, with a long slant toward the south on one 

 side, then put the trees in with tops a foot or more 

 higher than the roots, and cover the entire tree 

 with dirt. 



How to Plant. We should advise dynamiting 

 the tree-holes, if possible, placing the charge about 

 18 inches deep. A third or half of a stick will be 

 enough. This will loosen and heave the soil, and 

 not throw it out. You will find that the effect of 

 dynamiting, compared with digging only, will be 

 noticeable for years in the growth of the trees. In 

 case 3-ou decide to dig the holes, be sure to make 

 them large enough so there is plenty of room for the 

 roots without crowding or breaking them. 



Trees should be set about 2 inches deeper than 

 they stood in the nursery. See that the holes are 

 opened up deeper than you want to set the trees, 

 and fill in a few inches with top soil. As you fill in 

 more top-soil about the roots, keep working the 

 tree up and down vigorously, to fill all air-spaces. 

 Keep packing the dirt. When the hole is half filled 

 in, you can apply one pound of raw ground bone or 

 fish scrap. 



Then finish filhng in. Be sure the dirt is made 



tight. You can't get it too sohd. Use a small maul, 



I or your feet. Come down on it with as many pounds 



as 3-0U can muster. A couple of inches at the top, 



however, should be loose, as a mulch. During the 



winter, the winds will swaj" the tree about to a 



i certain extent, making a funnel in the dirt around 



! the stem. All of this should be corrected in early 



spring by tamping. 



Planting Plans. Alany are using three peach 

 trees to one apple tree with success; others prefer 

 using two apple fillers. (See diagram.) We recom- 

 mend the following apples as fillers in an apple 

 orchard. A very desirable early kind is Yellow 

 Transparent, because the limbs of this variety 

 grow upward. It can be pruned to suit conditions. 

 Grimes' Golden is a short-hved tree, and begins to 

 bear very early. A little later in season is Wealthy, 

 which is a rather dwarf grower and a fine filler; 

 Duchess of Oldenburg is dwarf, also bears early and 

 ripens early. Wagener is the dwarfest of all, and is 

 an exceedingly fine variety for this purpose. The 

 first one mentioned has our preference. 



In recommending these fillers, we take it that the 

 man who plants them is planting for profit and is 

 planting to succeed; planting to get the most money 

 from, his acres. Two hundred trees to the acre soon 

 get too thick, but they pay well during the first 

 few years. We take it that we are talking to people 

 who will have nerve enough when the proper time 

 comes to cut out the fillers. 



W^e know of instances where the apple fillers have 

 paid the price of the land, the cost of the trees and 

 all expenses of operation, before they were at all in 

 the way of the standard trees. W'e know of other 

 orchards where three peach trees to one apple tree 

 have been planted, and the peach trees have paid 

 the entire expenses before they interfered with the 

 apple trees. Bear in mind that unless fillers are 

 cut out in time they will interfere and prevent 

 standards from making as much growth as they 

 should. But the profit from fillers, with proper care, 

 makes it well worth while to plant them. To show 

 our firm belief in fillers, we are using them in our 

 own commercial orchards and would plant no other 

 way. (See diagrams.) 



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*'HOW TO GROW AND MARKET FRUIT" IS OUR GUIDEBOOK FOR FRUIT-GROWERS 



