After the flowering season, in June and 

 July, the new offsets or rhizomes are fairly 

 well developed and if removed and planted 

 at that time or during the next few months 

 will generally bloom the following spring. 

 The rhizomes are in a semi-dormant state 

 during these months, and when detached 

 and replanted in moist soil will immediately 

 put out new rootlets and commence to 

 grow. 



In sections of the country where the 

 climate is very arid and no means of pro- 

 viding moisture are readily at hand, plant- 

 ing should be deferred until late summer or 

 early fall rains are in the offing. Once 

 established the Iris can withstand drouth 

 much better than almost any other peren- 

 nial. 



Where the winters come fairly early, or 

 where temperatures drop into the low 

 freezing bracket, it is of prime importance 

 that Iris planting be done early enough so 

 that the new plant has an opportunity to 

 put out root growth and become anchored 

 against the possibility of heaving out of 

 the ground. In such climates a mulch of 

 coarse material such as corn stalks, salt hay, 

 and so on, should be applied shortly after 

 the ground freezes, and removed as soon 

 as the plants show signs of spring growth. 



When setting a new rhizome, spread out 

 the small roots well down in the ground, 

 firm the soil about them, and have the 

 rhizome or bulb-like portion of the plant 

 just below the soil level. We usually cover 



it from a half inch to an inch, the latter 

 depth when planting late in the season. 



If the plants are to be left in the same 

 position for several seasons, they may be 

 planted a distance of two feet apart. After 

 the first year the planting will no longer 

 appear sparce, and even at three feet the 

 space will rapidly fill up. If an immediate 

 effect is desired, the rhizomes may be set in 

 groups of three or four of a kind, spaced 

 eight or ten inches each way. These 

 groups should then be separated by from 

 two to four feet. If you are buying a col- 

 lection of different varieties, one plant each, 

 it would be well to give each sort plenty of 

 room and not too close to neighboring va- 

 rieties unless the colors harmonize. Where 

 space is limited and one wants a wide va- 

 riety of color, they may be planted a foot 

 apart in a straight or staggered row. 



If the ground is dry at planting time, 

 pour enough water into the hole to settle 

 the dirt about the roots. See that the sur- 

 face does not cake after it dries off, and 

 then keep the plants well cultivated, light- 

 ly, but to retain the moisture. Watering 

 should not be done unless the ground 

 appears to be getting quite dry, as too much 

 moisture will sometimes cause rot and in 

 some instances will promote excessive 

 growth before winter and results in the 

 bloom center being killed off by spring 

 frosts. This is an explanation of some new- 

 ly set Irises failing to bloom the first spring, 

 but growing well enough otherwise. 



INSECTS AND DISEASE 



Root Rot. Of the few diseases attacking 

 the Iris, so-called root rot is the worst. 

 This is a soft rot or decay which in its ad- 

 vanced stages reduces the entire rhizome 

 to a putrid mass. This is usually indicated 

 first by the sudden falling of a fan of 

 leaves, which, when taken hold of comes 

 away easily from the decayed rhizome. 

 Heavy, wet soil, over watering, wet sea- 

 sons, old crowded plants and possibly the 

 presence of borers, all tend to create con- 



ditions favorable to the development of 

 the root rot. 



Usually the rhizome can be saved if the 

 rot is noticed in time. Entirely cut out the 

 rot back to sound tissue and disinfect the 

 wound with potassium permanganate — one 

 level teaspoon of the crystals to one quart 

 of water. If the rot has made much head- 

 way, it may be best to take the plant up, 

 clean and treat it and replant. 



I 



