STRAWBERRY PLANTING METHODS— (Continued) 



Removing: Blossoms: Flower stems usually ap- 

 pear on strawberry plants soon after they are set 

 in the field and as the production of fruit is a se- 

 vere drain on their vitality, the flower stems should 

 be removed as they appear. With the Everbearers 

 the blossoms should be removed until the plants 

 are well established, this will usually require about 

 sixty days. 



Fertilizer and Manure: Well rotted stable man- 

 ure is ideal for strawberries. This may be applied 

 i in mediately after the ground is plowed in the 

 spring and disced in. When applied to the preced- 

 ing crop the results are usually as good as when 

 applied directly to the soil for berries. If you do 

 not have this material, green manure and commer- 

 cial fertilizer may be used with very good results. 

 Though green manures are desirable they are not 

 essential for profitable berry production except 

 when the soil is deficient in humus (organic mat- 

 ter). For several years we have used a mixture of 

 3 parts of dissolved bone and 1 part 16% acid phos- 

 phate, at the rate of 700 lbs. per acre in the drill, 

 applied about a week before the plants are set. 

 This has given very satisfactory results. The fer- 

 tilizer should be thoroughly worked in and mixed 

 with the soil or it may be applied as a top dress- 

 ing after the plants are set. With unfavorable con- 

 ditions or with a late spring it is better to apply 

 as a top dressing than to wait a week for the fer- 

 tilizer to become mixed with the soil. Never set 

 the plants immediately after the fertilizer is ap- 

 plied. When it is applied broadcast, 1000 lbs. per 

 acre may be safely used but it should be worked 

 into the soil well, at least a week prior to setting 

 plants. We do not recommend using more than 

 1000 lbs. broadcast or 700 lbs. in the drill. Raw 

 bone meal may be used and give very good re- 

 sults. However, this is rather expensive and is 

 slow to become available. Nitrate of Soda, Sul- 

 phate or Ammonia and Potash Salts should be 

 avoided as any of these materials will burn the 

 roots should they come in direct contact with them. 

 If such material must be used it should be applied 

 as a top dressing and placed considerable distance 

 from the plants. If poultry manure is available a 

 combination of two parts manure and one part 

 16% phosphoric acid will make a very satisfactory 

 fertilizer. This should be applied as any other 

 commercial fertilizer. A top dressing in late sum- 

 mer will often increase the yield and the size of 

 the fruit considerably. Fall application is prefer- 

 able as it does not cause such a rank growth of 

 vines and weeds as when applied in the spring be- 

 fore fruiting. This should be applied when the 

 leaves are dry, at the rate of 600 to 800 lbs. per 

 acre, of a mixture containing from 4 per cent to 7 

 per cent nitrogen, 6 per cent to 10 per cent phos- 

 phoric acid and 4 to 6 per cent potash. All fertil- 

 izer should be brushed off the leaves. 



Mating Varieties: The perfect varieties will pro- 

 duce a full crop of fruit when planted alone. The 

 imperfect varieties must be planted with some per- 

 fect variety of the same season to pollenize the 

 blossoms. There should be two rows of the per- 

 fect and four rows of the imperfect. All varieties 

 we list are perfect flowering. 



Mulching-. There are several reasons why mulch- 

 ing is desirable. Its use prevents the freezing and 

 thawing of the ground in winter, keeps the soil 

 cool and conserves moisture during the fruiting 

 season and also helps to keep the berries clean dur- 

 ing a rain. Strawy stable manure, straw, wild hay 

 or marsh grass are materials commonly used, ap- 

 plied at the rate of about 3 tons per acre. The 

 mulch should be appiled before the first hard 

 freeze, as it has been found that the first sudden 

 drop in temperature does more damage to unpro- 

 tected plants than subsequent freezes, even though 

 the temperature may go much lower. In the spring 

 the mulch should be raked off between the rows 

 or worked down around the plants where it will 

 also serve to retard the growth of weeds. 



Spraying and Dusting: As strawberries are sel- 

 dom subject to any serious damage from diseases 

 or insects spraying or dusting are not commonly 

 practiced. Setting healthy plants of varieties im- 

 mune or resistant to disease is much more desir- 

 able. In sections where the Weevil (Clipper) pre- 

 vail they can be controlled by dusting the beds 

 just before the first buds appear, and again about 

 10 days later, with a mixture of 85% Sulphur and 

 15% Arsenate of Lead. 



Summer and Early Fall Planting: There are t \v<> 



reasons why Summer and early Fall planting is 

 seldom successful; first, it is almost impossible to 

 get good plants and second: even If you gel good 

 plants they seldom, if ever, give as good results as 

 plants set in the early spring. Don't put oft your 

 planting until Fall. If you do you are almost sure 

 to be disappointed. 



Flanting At Proper Depth Very Important 



OUR BUSINESS GROWS BY ONE 

 CUSTOMER TELLING ANOTHER. 



Harrison Co., Ind., March 2!), 1040. 

 I am sending the balance due on my order by 

 check. I certainly appreciate your kind consider- 

 ation in the past and can readily see why you are 

 successful plant shippers and growers. In the first 

 place you have fine vigorous plants and in the 

 second place you do not delay your orders. I have 

 been telling my neighbors about your fine plants 

 and feel sure they will send you an order. 

 Mr. Arthur It. Richert 



HARDIEST AND BEST PLANTS EVER SEEN. 



Cumberland Co., Penna., May 20, 1940. 

 I thought you may like to know about the plants 

 you sold me. I got them from the Express Office 

 April 18th, and the same day it started to rain, we 

 were also moving at the time. It continued to 

 rain and stay cold, so I could not even heel the 

 plants in. I just opened the crates you shipped 

 them in and kept the roots moist. I did not get 

 a chance to plant them for about X or 10 days 

 later. I thought they would all die, but I want to 

 tell you they are the hardiest and best plants I 

 have ever seen, they have grown wonderfully, the 

 Catskill and Premier are in bloom. The six blue- 

 berry plants are all growing just as if they had 

 never been moved, and the raspberry plants are 

 all making leaves. I am so well pleased with 

 them that I just had to write you. Me for Rayner 

 grown plants when I wish to buy. I remain, 



Paul L. Frehn 



