CULTIVATION. 



Flowering plants are from various parts of the world, temperate and tropical, and 

 their habits are as various. Some are found on mountains, others in rich moist val- 

 leys, and again on arid plains. It follows that their treatment must be very dissim- 

 ilar, and that it is not in the province of a catalogue to give any lengthened cultural 

 directions. We will only offer a few general remarks on seed sowing. 



In this latitude (Washington) nearly all the Hardy Annuals can be sown in April 

 —say from first to middle— considering the season and the condition of the ground ; 

 whilst the more tender varieties— natives of warmer climates— should not be com- 

 mitted to the ground before the middle of May. Such tender plants as Double Zin- 

 nias, Clianthus Dampierii, Cypress Vine, etc., should not be sown before the latter 

 season, as they are natives of warm climates ; and when sown early, and the ground 

 is cold, they frequently perish. When this occurs, the blame is of course placed on 

 the seedsman ; when, had they been sown in proper season, success would be certain. 



Hardy Perennials.— The common and large-seeded kinds may be sown in the 

 open borders any time in April, but the rare and more delicate species will succeed 

 with greater certainty if raised in a closed frame, with or without bottom heat. 

 Thus treated, nearly all will flower the first season if sown early and planted out the 

 early part of May. All those with very small seeds should be sown under glass. 

 Amateurs will do well to bear in mind that though many Perennial seeds vegetate 

 as quickly as those of Annuals, there are some others which usually remain dormant 

 for weeks, and even months. To this class belong the Cyclamens, Paeonies, Fraxi- 

 nella, etc. Our native Perennials are best sown in autumn, or as soon as gathered, 

 and they will then vegetate the following spring. As this is not always practicable, 

 the plan of steeping the seeds before sowing, for twenty-four hours, may be adopted 

 with great advantage in many cases. Half-hardy Perennials require the same treat- 

 ment as hardy Perennials, differing only in their need of winter protection. 



Green-house and hot-house seeds need a moist, warm temperature, such as the 

 propagating-house or hot-bed frame. All seeds sown in frames or houses require 

 shading, in bright weather, during the middle of the day, especially as spring ad- 

 vances. For all seeds sown in pots, under glass, a compost composed of well decom- 

 posed leaf mould, sand and sandy loam, will answer very well. Sow very thinly • 

 cover the seeds with about their own thickness of soil. After germination has once 

 commenced, the surface of the soil should on no account be allowed to become dry. 

 Yery small seeds, such as Mimulus, Lobelia, Calceolaria, etc., should not be covered 

 with soil, but be sprinkled thinly on the soil, which should previously be watered 

 from a fine rose. Chinese Primula, germinates best when covered with a layer of 

 damp moss. This seed often fails to grow from being too deeply covered with soil, 

 and many other failures are attributable to the same cause. 



A writer in The Garden, London, makes the following remarks on the germina- 

 tion of seeds : " I have, at the present time, two kinds of shrub seeds just appear- 

 ing above ground, that have been sown, as nearly as possible, two years. In the or- 

 dinary course of affairs, many people, not understanding their nature, would have 

 thrown them away at least eighteen months ago and blamed their seedsman for 

 sending them bad seeds. Primula Japonica, if kept till spring, or until it has be- 

 come thoroughly dry, will not germinate for at least a year, and sometimes two ; and 

 the same holds good in the case of many hardy plants." 



