PLANT DEPARTMENT. 



83 



Sectional View 



Fire Heat. 



THE CU&TIYJITIOn OF jROSES- 



OT N submitting our revised list of Roses to our friends and customers, we feel justified in saying that our plants 

 ^4n this season are the largest and finest we have ever offered ; the flattering letters received from many of our 

 ^t-' patrons, as to the satisfactory results obtained from stock purchased of us, have made us feel that our efforts to 

 A send nut unod and reliable plants are appreciated. 



We have more than doubled our stock, and arc devoting a large area of glass exclusively to the cultivation 

 of the Rose, besides a large tract of land at our Belmont Hose Farm for the cultivation of the more hardy varieties. 



The young Roses that have been propagated during the winter from healthy parentage are planted out in April 

 or May in ground which has beeu deeply plowed, as well as liberally manured, where they are cultivated until 

 early in November, when the plants arc carefully lifted, potted and stored during the winter in cold houses at 

 our Riverton Nursery, as shown in illustration. Pot-grown plants of sorts best suited to this method are also culti- 

 vated at our Riverton establishment, and 

 stored away during the winter in Rose pits. 



This treatment is especially desirable 

 for plants intended for out-door planting; 

 it gives the Roses their natural season of 

 rest, enables the grower to plant early in 

 the spring before the foliage develops, and 

 places them in a condition for starting off 

 vigorously and naturally, thus avoiding 

 the risk of diseases that attack plants 

 grown in high temperature in forcing 

 houses. 



This treatment we find specially adapted 

 for Hybrid Perpetual Roses, as we are en- 

 abled to furnish our customers plants that 

 will bloom when set out in the open 

 ground, which by the old method was nearly an impossibility, as the high temperature, unavoidable where fire heat 

 was used, pushed them into bloom before it was safe to plant out-of-doors. Roses taken from a high temperature and 

 subjected to the cool night air of the early spring months are invariably checked and the flowers ruined. 



WINTER FORCING. 



Young plants of the tea varieties may be planted on the benches between May and October in 6 inches of soil that 

 has been specially prepared from sod taken from old pasture lands. No fertilizing material is given until the plants 

 become well established The best material for a stimulant is liquid manure, made from cow manure or guano, the 

 latter to be applied carefully, say every week. Bone dust worked into the soil is a good fertilizer and lasting in its 

 effect. By this method of growing the flowers attain large size and perfect coloring. The old way of growing the 

 plants into large size before planting on the benches is still practiced by many and fine blooms obtained, though by 

 using small plants as indicated less labor is required with equally good results-. 



Unceasing care is necessary that the proper degree of fertility and moisture is kept up, and that the temperature 

 is not allowed to fall to the point where the plants will be chilled and subjected to an attack of mildew. 



GARDEN CULTIVATION. 



Preparation of the Ground. — Roses will grow in any fertile ground, but are much improved in bloom, fra- 

 grance and beauty by rich soil, liberal manuring, and good cultivation. The ground should be subsoiled and well 

 spaded to the depth of a foot or more, and enriched by digging in a good coat of cow manure or any fertilizing material 

 that may be convenient. Renew old beds by decayed sods taken from old pasture land. 



Planting. — When the ground is thoroughly prepared — fine and in nice condition — put. in the plant slightly deeper 

 than it was before, spread the roots out evenly in their natural position, and cover them with fine earth, taking care 

 to draw it closely around the stem, and pack firmly down with the hand. It is very important that the earth be 

 tightly finned down on the roots. Budded Roses should be planted three inches below the bud. Always choose the 

 most favorable time for planting in your own locality. Roses can be planted as soon as convenient after the frost is 

 ever. They can be sent with entire safety, regardless of the season. , Always select an open, sunny place, exposed to 

 full light and air. Roses appear to best advantage when planted in beds or masses. 



Watering. — If the ground is dry when planted, water thoroughly after planting, so as to soak the earth down be- 

 low the roots, and, if hot or windy, it may be well to shade for a few days. After this not much water is required 

 unless the weather is unusually dry. Plants will not thrive if kept too wet and without drainage. 



Pruning. — In most seasons it is best to prune established plants of hardy kinds in March. Tender varieties (such 

 as the Tea Roses) and newly planted Roses may be left till a month later. As a general rule close pruning produces 

 quality, and long pruning quantity of bloom. Climbing, Weeping and Pillar Roses should not be cut back ; but the 

 tips of the shoots only should be taken off, and any weak or unripe shoots cut out altogether. 



FALL AND WINTER TREATMENT. 



Fall Treatment. — In the fall the Rose beds should have a good dressing of stable manure, or any fertilizing 

 material that is convenient. The winter rains will carry the strength down to the roots, and the remaining matter 

 makes a nice mulch, which in many places is all the protection that is necessary. In very cold localities it is a good 

 plan to cover the beds all over with old sods, fresh earth, or coal ashes, from three to six inches deep. Where the 

 winters are not very severe tender Roses may be nicely covered with clean Rye straw, forest leaves, or evergreen 

 branches, but care must be taken not to put it on too thick ; the covering should permit considerable circulation of 

 air, and should not retain water ; and nothing should be used that will ferment, heat or rot. The object of covering 

 is not to keep the plants warm, but to break the force of sudden and violent changes, particularly in March, when the 

 plants should be protected from the sun, rather than cold ; the sudden thawing of the frozen wood doing the damage. 



Winter Treatment. — Whatever covering is used, it should not be put on till late in the season, when the plants 

 are well matured and severe weather close at hand ; moderate freezing is not injurious. It should be understood that 

 a certain degree of growth and development is necessary to enable even Hardy Roses and plants to bear Northern 

 winters. If newly planted just before cold weather, thev canuot bear the winter; they must be planted eany enough 

 in the season to make considerable growth and get well established before cold weather begins, otherwise they will 

 most likely be winter-killed, in spite of any protection that can be given. In places where the winters are not more 

 severe than at Philadelphia, many varieties of the Ever-Blooming Roses are nearly hardy, and we think thebestway 

 to treat them is to leave all in open ground, and give whatever covering may be convenient. Experience proves that 

 the loss will be as light in this way as any other, and it is much the least trouble. 



When to Uncover. — Do not uncover in the spring till frost has left the ground and there is a prospect of reason- 

 ably settled weather. When uncovered the plants should be carefully pruned, and the beds dug and raked. 



