FOUNDEI 

 850 



DiNGEE Guide To Rose Culture 



FOUNDED 

 1850 



WINTER PROTECTION.— The protection necessary to 

 keep Roses safely through the winter months depends en- 

 tirely upon the character of the plant and the location. For 

 such Roses as the Hybrid Perpetuals, Rugosas, Harrison's 

 Yellow, etc., very little protection is necessary in any cli- 

 mate, yet it is beneficial in the cold latitudes of the North 

 to give them a protection of strawy horse stable manure 

 after the first hard freeze. The soil itself is a good pro- 

 tion. When protecting the Teas and Hybrid Teas it is a 

 good plan to mound the earth about each plant, or use clean 

 sand about six inches deep, then fill in between the 

 mounds with strawy stable manure, the coarser the better. 

 The uncovered tops may be tied up with straw or burlap. 

 We would not suggest the use of leaves, as oftentimes 

 mice make their home there and destroy the plants through 

 the winter. This protection should be gradually removed 

 in March in the latitude of Philadelphia, or as soon as all 

 danger of hard freezing is over. The tender Roses may 

 also be wintered in boxes or pots of soil in a cool cellar or 

 heeled in (the earth itself). Where you have a dirt floor 

 two or three waterings will be required during the winter, 

 just sufficient to prevent drying out. 



Diseases and Insects 



MILDEW — This disease very frequently attacks the fo- 

 liage of Roses, especially the Crimson Rambler. It is 

 shown by a grayish crinkling appearance of the leaves and 

 usually occurs after a change in the temperature. It can 

 be checked to a certain extent by sprinkling the leaves 

 with powdered sulphur immediately after its appearance. 

 If, however, this does not check it, dissolve one ounce of 

 potassium sulphuret in two gallons of cold water and apply 

 a fine spray. 



GREEN FLY OR APHIS.— A green suckling insect which 

 usually gathers in great numbers upon the tips of the new 

 growth. A solution of tobacco made from tobacco insecti- 

 cide soap, which you will find offered elsewhere in this 

 book, will exterminate them. 



Red Spider is also a small insect indiscernible to the 

 naked eye, and a frequent spraying with a strong hose is 

 all that is necessary. The leaf roller is an insect of yellow- 

 ish-white color, resembling the butterfly, and lays eggs on 

 the underside of the leaf, which soon form a cocoon, rolling 

 around itself the leaf, hence the name, leaf-roller. The 

 Rose bug, a familiar insect, appears in the earliest summer, 

 sometimes in great quantities, and is very troublesome. It 

 is a very destructive insect and usually feeds upon the 

 white petals, but is easily destroyed, especially in the early 

 morning, when they will readily fall into a vessel contain- 

 ing kerosene. They can be poisoned, but it is not a very 

 desirable way to get rid of them. This is to spray with 

 wood alcohol, which will kill any insert by contact, oper- 

 ates quickly and does not injure the flower if applied in 

 a mist-like spray. Care should be exercised by the operator 

 not to inhale any of the fumes. Any of the foregoing prep- 

 arations can be applied by the Tyrian Plan Sprinkler or the 

 Auto-Spray, the price of which will be found elsewhere in 

 this book. 



BLACK SPOT — A fungous disease, apparing as its name 

 indicates as a black spot upon the leaf, eventually turning 

 yellow and falling. It rarely occurs in the early part of 

 the season, and the Teas are almost, but not quite, exempt 

 from its ravages. The best preventative if your bushes 

 have been troubled by it in the past is spraying in April 



with Bordeaux Mixture before the foliage has developed 

 and not while the flowers are in bloom, because of the dis- 

 coloration of the foliage. The disease usually appears at 

 the base of the plant and works upwards, so a watch should 

 be kept and as soon as any leaves appear affected with this 

 disease they should be pulled off and taken entirely away 

 from the balance of the plants. If this is thoroughly done 

 it will usually hold the disease in check. 



HARDINESS — Hardiness in a Rose is a matter of which 

 no one can speak with positive certainty, because the condi- 

 tion of the weather as a rule prescribes the hardiness of 

 a plant, as quite frequently plants that have been out year 

 after year will be winter killed by unusual conditions. As 

 stated elsewhere the hardiness of the different varieties of 

 plants can be depended upon to be as near accurate as it is 

 possible for anyone to determine. 



KEROSENE EMULSION.— To two quarts of kerosene 

 add one of slightly sour milk; agitate and dilute with twenty 

 parts of soft water. 



TOBACCO SOLUTION.— 'Boil the leaves or stems of 

 tobacco and dilute to the color of weak tea. 



TOBACCO INSECTICIDE SOAP.— A standard remedy 

 and one of the best, with full directions for use. Two sizes. 

 Price, 13 cents and 28 cents each, postpaid. 



BUG KILLER. — A new preparation for killing all kinds 

 of bugs and pests that attack Roses. Box sufficient for two 

 gallons of spray, 50 cents, 3 for $1.25, postpaid. 



BORDEAUX MIXTURE (Dry).— For dusting plants af- 

 fected with mildew and all fungous diseases. Can be dis- 

 solved and used as a spray. 1-lb. box, 35c. (makes 5 gal- 

 lons liquid), postpaid; 5 lbs., $1, by express, collect. 



How to Select the Proper Roses 



FOR THE EXTREME NORTH.— Where the winters are 

 long and severe, such as the Hybrid Perpetuals on pages 59 

 to 65, the Moss, Rugosa, Wichuraianas, Climbers on pages 

 71 to 76 will withstand winters without any protection, but 

 better results are secured if protection is given. Such Roses 

 as the Hybrid Teas, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Virginia R. 

 Coxe, Souperts, Baby Ramblers, can be successfully grown 

 if given proper protection. 



FOR THE SOUTH AND SOUTHWEST.— Any of the 



Roses offered in this book, but the Teas and Hybrid Teas, 

 Baby Ramblers, Souperts, Polyanthas, and Bourbon Chinas 

 are the most suitable. Climbing Roses on page 63, Climb- 

 ing Maman Cochet on pages 60 and 61, and those offered on 

 page 64. 



FOR TRELLISES, ARBORS, GATEWAYS, PERGOLAS, 

 ETC. — In the North such Climbing Roses as those offered 

 on pages 71-72-73-74-75-76, Climbing American Beauty on 

 page 86 and back cover, and those on page 63 marked M. H, 

 and H. In the warmer climates any of the above, and all of 

 those on page 63. 



FOR GROWING ROSES FOR CUT FLOWERS.— In 



greenhouses, such as Killarneys, American Beauty, Bride, 

 Bridesmaid, Milady, Ophelia, My Maryland, Lady Hilling- 

 don, Sunburst, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. For outdoor 

 growing for cut-flower purposes none are better adapted 

 for this than the Cochets and Charles Dingee. 



FOR CEMETERIES.— The Souperts and Baby Ramblers. 



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