Dingee Roses and How to Grow Them 



The Best Varieties for Different Sections of the Country 



LL DINGEE ROSES are propagated under 

 such favorable conditions that our shibboleth, 

 "Dingee Roses Go and Grow Everywhere," is 

 literally true; but common sense tells us that 

 certain kinds of Roses thrive better in some 

 localities than in others. We are often asked 

 our opinion upon this one point, and in order to give our 

 friends a guide for them to follow we have tried to indicate 

 as nearly as possible, in connection with the different 

 classes of Roses, the section of the country in which each 

 will thrive to its full perfection with the least amount of 

 protection. 



But it must not be understood, because we prefer a cer- 

 tain class for one locality, that it will not do well in others. 

 For instance, we recommend all the Hybrid Perpetuals for 

 planting in the extreme Northern States and Canada, and 

 yet these same varieties grow to great size and beauty in 

 Florida and Texas. On the other hand, we state that some 

 of the Tea Roses are best for Southern planting; but by 

 careful protection they may be grown successfully in 

 Canada. 



PREPARATION OF BEDS— The way to get the best re- 

 sults from Roses when planted in beds is to make a trench 

 to a depth of 15 to 18 inches, that is, the soil should be 

 removed to that depth, well pulverized and mixed with 

 from one-third to one-fourth of its bulk with well rotted 

 animal manure, cow stable manure preferable where it can 

 be obtained. Before filling in the bed it is well to put 

 in some material for drainage, such as soft coal cin- 

 ders, broken crockery or stones, not too large. Then 

 return the soil to the trench, and when returned it should 

 stand from 3 to 4 inches higher than the surrounding 

 ground, as it will quickly settle below the surface. It is 

 necessary to do this, in order that the rain water will drain 

 quickly away from the bed. If, however, the soil you re- 

 move from the trench is not the best Rose soil, as the best 

 kind of soil for Roses is a clayey loam, if your soil does not 

 contain this it can be improved by mixing in sods from the 

 roadside or fields, but if your soil is too heavy it should be 

 lightened with a portion of sand. The soil before returning 

 to the trench should be well pulverized, that is, make it as 

 fine as possible, and also the manure should be pulverized 

 and not left in chunks if you wish to obtain the best results. 

 The selection of your bed is a very important matter. 

 Roses thrive best where they can secure all the sun possi- 

 ble, that is, do not plant them close to trees or shrubbery, 

 as the roots of these extend further than the branches. Se- 

 lect, if possible, an open situation, where the plants will 

 receive plenty of air and sunshine. It is not, however, 

 necessary that they should receive sunshine the entire day. 

 A southeastern exposure is an ideal one. They will, how- 

 ever do well in other locations if given the necessary care. 

 Roses do better if they are watered in the morning. 



FERTILIZER — This is a question we are frequently re- 

 quested to answer. Animal manure from one to two years 

 old where it can be obtained is the best. Cow manure is 

 generally preferred, and can be used in fresh condition. 

 Horse manure when new is very heating and should not 

 be used v/hile in this condition, except as a winter mulch. 

 Hog, sheep and chicken roanure are also very useful. The 



last two, however, should be used sparingly. Ground bone 

 is beneficial, but should be secured as fine as possible, and 

 it should be used sparingly. The best method is sprinkling 

 a portion over the bed until the ground is entirely covered, 

 then with the use of a fork it can be dug into the soil and 

 thoroughly mixed. You will also find an occasional appli- 

 cation of Bonora, such as is offered in this book, will pro- 

 duce good results. Air slacked lime also is beneficial, 

 about a cupful to a plant scattered on the surface in early 

 spring and mid-summer. 



PLANTING — As soon as the plants are received it is best 

 to immediately plant, yet if it is impossible to do this the 

 plant should be placed in a cellar or moderately warm place 

 and protected from the sun. Set them upright to admit the 

 free circulation of air. When you receive them they will be 

 wrapped in Sphagnum Moss, which should be removed be- 

 fore planting, as it is used only for protection. Water 

 freely from time to time. The roots should be covered with 

 soil or burlap and never be allowed to become dry. Soak- 

 ing the roots in lukewarm water or thin mud for an hour 

 or two before planting to restore their vitality is beneficial. 

 Do not set the plants too deep or too shallow. They should 

 be planted a little deeper than they were growing in the 

 pots before shipping. This can easily be determined by 

 an examination of the plant. The roots of the plants should 

 be spread out and not cramped. If you receive them with 

 the soil on the roots in which they have been growing, do 

 not remove this soil, but simply loosen it if packed in a 

 hard ball. Give them as near a natural position as is possi- 

 ble. Use plenty of water after planting and shade for a 

 few days if the sun is hot, with newspaper or similar ma- 

 terial, and if the season is a dry one an occasional water- 

 ing will be beneficial. The best time to plant Roses such 

 as we send out, being pot grown, own root stock, is in early 

 spring as soon as all danger of frost is past and the ground 

 is warm and pliable, or, in other words, about corn-planting 

 time. This time, of course, varies with the location. Here 

 in Pennsylvania about the first of May is our planting time. 

 Further north it is a little later; further south earlier. Feb- 

 ruary, March and April are good months for Roses on the 

 Pacific Coast and the far South. This refers entirely to 

 pot-grown plants and not dormant plants. By dormant 

 plants we mean field-grown, that is, lifted from the field 

 and have not made any growth whatever. Such plants as 

 these should be set out earlier than pot-grown plants. 



PRUNING. — As a rule the Roses that we send out do 

 not need any pruning, being pot-grown plants. However, 

 if the bushes are more spreading than is desired it does not 

 injure the plant any to prune it back. This applies only to 

 the pot-grown plants, ^'here dormant or field-grown plants 

 are secured they should be pruned back before planting. 

 Pruning can be done at any season of the year with a cer- 

 tain class of Roses, but it is a matter to be governed by the 

 judgment of the possessor of the plants. The best time 

 for pruning is in early spring, just before they begin to 

 break at the eyes. Then it is well to trim Roses back to 

 about one-third to one-half the season's growth. The larger 

 and heavier the growth the more it should be trimmed. 



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