28 



in pots, or in the open ground, when it has become free from frost, and perfectly 

 settled. 



Depth and Distance. — Hyacinths, Persian Fritillary, Martagon, and other Lilies, 

 and Paeonies, should be planted at the depth of four inches ; Crown Imperials 

 and Polyanthus Narcissus, five inches ; Tulips, Double and Single Narcissus 

 Jonquils, Colchicums, Snow Flakes, Bulbous Iris, and Gladiolus, three inches* 

 Crocus, Arums, Small Fritillaries, and Snow Drops, two inches; -Ranunculus 

 and Anemone, one and a half inches ; Dogstooth Violet, one inch ; always 

 measuring from the top of the bulb;_ The rows should be ten inches apart, and 

 the roots be placed from four to six inches apart in rows, according to their size. 



Protection during Winter. — In the ]\Iiddle and Northern States, it M'ill on the 

 approach of winter, be beneficial, though not absolutely necessary, to cover the 

 beds with straw, tanners' bark, withered leaves, or light earth from the n^oods, 

 (such as is formed by the decay of foliage,) to the depth of two or three inches' 

 as it prevents any ill eff'ects which a very severe season might have upon the 

 roots. This covering must be carefully raked off early in the spring. The 

 Polyanthus Narcissus, Hoop Petticoat Narcissus, and Arum Dracunculus, being 

 more tender than other species, require a covering of five or six inches of straw 

 or leaves in the manner above detailed. 



Taking up Bulbs after Fioiccring. — About a month after the bloom is passed, 

 the foliage puts on a yellow decayed appearance. This is the proper season for 

 taking up the roots ; on doing which, the stem and foliage should be cut off 

 within an inch of the bulb, leaving the fibrous roots attached to it. After this 

 preparation, spread them singly in an airy room to dry, for two or three weeks, 

 then wrap each root carefully in paper, (the air being" injurious,) or put them in 

 dry sand, until replanted. 



Anemone and Ranunculus.— The soil should be compact and rich, not light or 

 sandy. A stiff loamy soil suits them very well ; and with it there should be 

 mixed one fourth part of rotten manure, and, in doing this, the earth ought to be 

 well pulverized/ In England they are planted about the 10th of February ; and 

 here they may with success be planted as early in the spring as the ground can 

 be v/orked. We ha\;e had them to succeed well v%^hen planted at the end* of 

 October, or early in November, and protected during the winter with a covering 

 of straw and leaves, which was removed early in the spring. They will bear a 

 considerable degree of cold, but our intense frosts destroy them when not pro- 

 tected as above. They require a moist soil, but not over much so. Heavy rains 

 injure and rot them ; and the gi-ound selected should be such as does nor retain 

 water and become sodden. In diy weather, they will require frequent waterings. . 

 When the roots are taken up after blooming, they should be preserved in dry 

 sand till replanted. 



CvJM'.rc of Tender Bulbs in pots, comprising the Oxalis, Lachenalia, Ixia, 

 Gladiolus, Antholyza, etc. etc. — The management of these is extremely simple. 

 They should have as much light, sun, and air, as possible, and be kept free from 

 frost. When the foliage is past, and the roots consequently in a dormant state, 

 they can be either left in the pots, in a dry situation, without watering, or 

 be taken out and wrapped in paper, or packed in sand till the ensuing season, 

 at which period they should be repotted in fresh soil, composed as already 

 detailed. 



Cidture of the Amaryllis and Tioberose.-^The Amaryllis longifolia, (both rose 

 colored and white,) is' extremely magnificent, and will support our winters by 

 planting the roots at the depth of six inches from the extremity of the neck of the 

 bulb. A southern exposure is much to be preferred, the warmer the better. 

 They will also flourish admirably if planted in a pond below the point of congela- 

 tion. The Amaryllis Formosissima, vitata, aurea, belladona, equestris, double 

 and single, regins, psittacina, Johnsoni, gigantea, ignescens, and all ihe other 

 spring, summer, and autumn flowering species may, if preferred, be preserved 

 during winter in boxes of dry sand, and planted out in the open garden at the end 

 of April, or beginning of IMay.'in a rich sandy loam, where they will bloom with 

 the utmost splendor. The different species of Zephyranthes, Crinum, and 

 Pancratium, will succeed admirably by the same course of culture. In planting 

 the above-named roots, place the bulb so that one-third of its diameter will be 

 above the surface of the ground. This is to apply to all, except the Amarjdlis 

 formosissima or Jacobean Lily, which should have the bulb covered, leaving' 

 the neck only to project above the surface of the ground. Tuberoses, and the 

 Feraria tygridia, or Tiger flower, should be planted at the depth of one inch, the 

 numerous offsets on the former being first broken off to prevent their impoverish- 



