moments of exposure. Do not set the plants too deep or too shallow. If 

 planted too deep, the stems will rot off ; if too shallow, the plant will 

 grow spindling, will dry out too soon, and high winds will cause them to 

 vsway, breaking the roots. It is a good rule to plant them just a little 

 deeper than they formerly grew, with upper roots one or two inches under 

 ground. Make the hole in which the plant is to be set large enough so 

 that the roots can be spread out naturally. Plants with cramped roots 

 never do so well as those that have plenty of root-room when planted. 

 Use plenty of water when planting, to work the soil in among the roots. As 

 the soil is being thrown in about the ball, pour in a [)ailful of water. When 

 the hole is almost full, pour in another pailful, then set the next plant. In 

 three or four hours when the surplus water has drained away, finish filling 

 the hole with soil and tramp the earth firmly about the plant. The after- 

 cultivation consists of frequently stirring the surface soil to maintain a 

 dust mulch — about once a week and as soon as possible after each rain 

 will be sufficient. 



p • If you have bought two- or three-year-old plants, cut them 



— ^ back rather severely at the time of planting — to three or four 



buds on the Hybrid Perpetuals and about six on the Teas and Hybrid Teas. 

 Always cut the stem just above a bud that points out, never above one that 

 points toward the center of the plants. The term bud or eye is used to 

 define the places on the stem where leaves will be produced. They are 

 easily distinguished, as they look like small pointed warts on the stems. If 

 the plants are in leaf when planted, the .\bove does not apply. The 

 crop of flowers on the Rose plants is largely governed by the kind of 

 pruning the plants receive. In fact, other conditions being ideal, the prun- 

 ing determines the quantity and the size of the flowers. 



The Hybrid Perpetuals, and other haidy and Climbing Roses, should 

 be pruned in March, if weather permits, by the middle of the month. The 

 tender Roses, the Teas and Hybrids, need not be pruned until along in April, 

 when the sap begins to flow and the buds begin to swell, for at this time 

 dead and weak wood may be much more easily distinguished and cut out 

 than earlier in the season. Besides, it is an advantage to leave the mulch 

 undisturbed until settled weather has arrived. 

 At the time of pruning one must decide upon the 

 kind of crop wanted. If the very biggest and 

 best FLOWERS are wanted, then severe pruning is 

 necessary (1 in pruning directions, p. 17); if large 

 crop of average flowers, then only moderate prun- 

 ing (2 in pruning directions, p. 17), but where 

 quantity of bloom is preferred, only a little prun- 

 ing is necessary (3 in pruning directions, p. 17). 



When pruning Hybrid Perpetuals, first cut out 

 the weak wood and any branches that cross, then 

 cut back the strong canes to about six eyes, the 

 top one pointing out and the cut being made one- 

 quarter of an inch above the bud. If you want only 

 a few big flowers, cut back to only three or four 

 buds. For the big outdoor display leave four to 

 seven canes two-thirds their growth. The Teas and 

 Hybrid Teas will need the same attention, but there 

 should be as much or more wood left. This may 

 not always be possible, how^ever, as the winter 

 may have killed the canes back too far. In that 

 case cut back to live wood, even if it is down as 

 far as the surface of the soil. 



These rules are modified somewhat by the 

 character of the plant. The weaker - growing 





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Showing where to 

 prune 



32 



