varieties can be cut back farther than strong-growing sorts. The strong- 

 growing kinds, if cut back too heavily, will run to wood too much, and, in 

 the case of some — Gloire Lyonnaise, for instance — too heavy pruning may 

 cause the loss of the plant. 



The Bourbon Roses need but little pruning. Cut back the stems a few 

 inches and remove any weak wood. 



This is also true of the Brier Roses, such as Harrison's Yellow and The 

 Ramblers which should not be pruned much in th? Fall or Spring, but just 

 AFTER THE FLOWERING SEASON, SO that new w^ood for next season's bloom 

 may be produce!. 



Climbing and Pillar Roses need be cut back but one-thii'd to one-fifth, 

 and on old well-established plants the old, enfeebled wood should also be 

 taken out. 



A Little Trick to prevent the bare base of the branches so commonly 

 seen is worth knowing. In straight branches the sap goes to the top leav- 

 ing nothing for the buds at the base of the stems. Train the branches up 

 crooked by putting a couple of sharp bends in the stems within two or 

 three feet of the ground, and foliage will be produced the whole length 

 of the stem. To get a second crop of flowers in the fall, cut eight to ten 

 inches of wood with the flowers. Several of the hybrid perpetuals will also 

 bloom in the fall if given this same treatment. For further directions for 

 pruning, see page 17 and the list of 101 Roses on pages 20 to 30, where 

 the individual requirements are given for each variety. 



In the Fall, extra-long canes will need to be cut back a little, and 

 perhaps tied to a stake or support to prevent damage to the roots from 

 the swaying of the canes being blowm about by the high winds. 



Enemiei of the Rose. J'^^ li'"" °^ P^-*^^*^* ^"''i''' 'f ^t^''"'*' ^'ig"a°'^^> 

 for there are many insect pests and plant 



diseases that must be fought constantly. The worst enemy is the rose 

 beetle, which is particularly severe on sandy soils. Damage from this pest 

 can be greatly lessened by spraying every two weeks through June and 

 early July with arsenate of lead at the rate of one pound to ten gallons of 

 water. In seasons when only a few appear, hand-picking may be resorted 

 to. If the arsenate of lead is applied to the under side of the leaves it 

 will also hold the rose slug in check. The presence of this insect will be 

 recognized by the skeletoniz3d leaf. Aphis attack the plants during May 

 and June, but damage from this source can be obviated by spraying with 

 Thompsons Rose Nicotine, or with kerosene emulsion. This latter insecti- 

 cide, strange as it may seem, acts as a fungicide preventing mildew, one 

 of the bad Rose pests. 



Leaf-spot, mildew, rust and other fungous diseases can be held in check 

 or prevented by spraying every two weeks with Bordeaux mixture, or, if 

 you object to the grayish green 'spotting of the leaves, use an ammoniacal 

 copper carbonate solution, or apply Grape Dust (see p. 34). 



Cultivate the garden once a w^eek up to the middle of July to maintain 

 a dust mulch on the bed so as to conserve soil moisture. After that a mulch 

 of well-decayed manure, in which no heat will generate, maybe given the bed. 



In the fall, upon the approach of heavy frosts, protect the plants by 

 giving them a mulch about the stems. This may easily be done by piling 

 soil up around the stems to the depth of five or six inches In the case of 

 the Teas and Hybrid Teas it will also be wise to protect the stems by straw, 

 but this should not be done until after the ground has frozen; then the 

 ground mice will have proWded themselves with homes for the winter The 

 straw can either be tied about each plant or the canes bent dowm and the 

 whole bed covered with straw. 



The best protection against insect attacks is vigorous health. Roses 

 that are full of vigor are seldom full of bugs ! Therefore, keep your Roses 

 healthy and happy. 



33 



