Stratvberry Plants of Quality 



Soil— Strawberries will grow on most all kinds of soil if springy and moist, as they require 

 a great deal of moisture especially at fruiting time, but well drained so water will not stand. 

 They are grown in nearly all climates, being grown with success as far south as Florida and 

 as far north as Alaska and on the light sandy types as well as on the heavier soils, altho, 

 like most other crops they will produce larger crops if planted in fertile well drained fields that 

 are full of humus and that will retain moisture, in fact, any kind of land that will make good 

 crops of corn or potatoes will make a good crop of berries. Strawberries should follow some 

 truck crop that has been heavily manured, if possible, as this seems to put the plant food in 

 just the right condition for them to use and also will be less weed seeds, or after cow peas. 

 If neither of these are available, rye can be sown in the early fall and plowed under in the 

 early spring; this will supply plant food, add humus and help retain moisture. After the field 

 has been selected it should be plowed in early spring and if barnyard manure is to be used 

 would advise broadcasting it at this time, and either with or without manure should be thor- 

 oughly prepared by discing then harrowing or draging until the field is level so as to have a 

 nice soft even planting bed. Strawberries should not be planted on an old sod, as this is 

 likely to be infested with grubs; such land should receive at least one cultivated crop before 

 planting to strawberries. 



Care of Plants When Received— If for any reason you are not quite ready to set plants 

 when received they can be kept a week or two by unpacking them, carefully separating each 

 variety, untieing bundles and heeling in V-shaped trenches; dampen the roots but not the tops, 

 firm soil around them with foot and shade from sun. 



Planting — In the northern states strawberry plants should be set as early in the spring as 

 the ground can be prepared as plants set at this time, before the sun gets hot, will have plenty 

 of moisture, something every plant must have to live^ — insuring a good stand, if properly set, 

 and will do much better than when set late. In the south plants may be set any time from 

 Nov. 1st to April 1st. When setting plants care should be taken not to let the roots be ex- 

 posed to the wind and sun. The roots should be kept damp and set in moist soil and the soil 

 should be firmly pressed around the plant so it will not dry out and not set too deep so that 

 the buds will be covered nor too shallow so that any part of the root will show. The rows 

 should be about 3^2 to 4 feet apart for the matted row system and the plants set 13 to 20 in- 

 ches apart in the row, according to variety. Prolific plant makers like Missionary, Blakemore 

 and Dunlap can be set further apart than varieties that make larger but fewer plants like 

 Chesapeake, Lupton and Mastodon. After the beds are 12 to 15 inches wide or as wide as 

 wanted the runners should be kept cut off. Wider beds than this would be satisfactory pro- 

 vided the plants are trained in the row so they will not be too thick or over-crowded in the 

 row but each plant spaced an inch or two apart. 



Mating Varieties^ — All pistillate or imperfect varieties I list are marked (Imp) and in 

 planting one or two good perfect varieties marked (Per) of same season should be planted 

 every third or fourth row to make them fruit. Some growers plant the varieties in same row, 

 using about one-fourth of the perfect varieties. It is probably better to plant more than one 

 variety in a field because of the beneficial effect of cross pollenization. 



Fertilizing— To get plants started early a light application of fertilizer, if barnyard manure 

 is not available which is best applied as above, should be made before planting, but I desire 

 to warn my customers against the too heavy application of commercial fertilizer to young 

 strawberry plants, as many plants have been injured and often killed outright, but 400 or 500 lbs. 

 of a mixture composed of 1500 lbs. dissolved bone and 800 lbs. acid phosphate would not in- 

 jure them if put in the drill or row provided it is well scattered and thoroughly mixed with 

 the soil but would advise putting it in about 10 days before plants are set. An application of 

 5-8-5 or 7-6-5 in late fall or early spring will make a heavier, better crop of fruit. 



Cultivation — Cultivation should begin as soon as possible after plants are set and should 

 continue once a week or ten days, if land is in suitable condition through the summer and early 

 fall to keep free from weeds and help retain moisture. Hoe as often as necessary to keep down 

 weeds, but shallow, so as not to disturb the roots. When hoeing the first time be sure to un- 

 cover the buds of all plants that have been planted too deep. If this is not done they will not 

 amount to very much. The first young plants should be encouraged to take root as this will 

 enable them to get started earlier and make better beds and should be trained in the row so 

 they will not be overcrowded, especially the varieties that make a great many plants. 



Removing the Blossoms — This is very important if you wish success with your plants for 

 if the plants are allowed to produce fruit they are greatly weakened, using the greater part of 

 their vitality, therefore all blossoms should be removed the first year. On everbearing varie- 

 ties all blossoms should be removed until about the middle of July, or until they get started 

 good, when they can be allowed to fruit. 



