IJPMDingee Roses -Sturdy as Oaks 



the spring or early summer months. In 

 many of the moderately cold states, dormant 

 Roses may be set out with safety during the 

 fall months, but in the section of which we 

 have latterly spoken, dormant Roses — and 

 when we say "dormant" we mean Roses that 

 have been lifted from the field, which, when 

 sent out, have neither foliage nor soil around 

 the roots — may be planted in early spring, 

 just as soon as the ground can be dug. 



Everything considered, however, our pot- 

 grown Roses are the most satisfactory of all. 

 They are invariably on their own roots, and, 

 when sent out, they have the advantage of 

 being equipped with strong, fibrous, active 

 roots, which take hold and establish them- 

 selves in their new homes almost immedi- 

 ately. They should be set out during the 

 spring or early summer months, after all dan- 

 ger of frost is past, or to quote a homely 

 expression, after corn-planting time. Select, if 

 possible, the most sheltered and sunny loca- 

 tion for planting: avoid the close proximity 

 of large trees, whose dense foliage and 

 extending roots absorb all the life and sus- 

 taining nutrition of the soil. Young trees and 

 dwarf shrubbery will not be hurtful. 



PRUNING. All Roses are helped by prun- 

 ing. Roses of the type of Harrison's Yellow, 

 Soleil d'Or, Hybrid Perpetuals, Rugosas, — 

 in fact, all Roses of this extremely hardy class, 

 — are benefited very much by pruning, more 

 so than any other class. From our own 

 experience, we find that the Hybrid Per- 

 petuals in many varieties, such as Mad. Mas- 

 son, Mad. Charles Wood, General Jacquemi- 

 not, and others of this type, frequently bloom 

 two and three times during the season when 

 the flowers are kept cut off and the plants 

 pruned in to induce new shoots being thrown 

 out, which produces the flowers. The average 

 planter is extremely timid in pruning because 

 he is afraid of the injury it will possibly do. 

 Pruning, therefore, is a matter to be governed 

 by the judgment of the possessor of the 

 plants. We will add, however, that plants of 

 persistent growth should be trimmed back 

 each fall or in early spring about one-half to 

 two-thirds of the season's p^rowth. Where 

 plants, apparently healthy, fail to mature the 

 buds which they bear, remove a large per- 

 centage of the undeveloped buds and imper- 

 fect blooms and pnjne severely. Also trim 

 back about one-third, when, after planting, 

 they shed their leaves and exhibit signs of 

 weakness; this gives the roots a chance to 

 become vigorous. 



INSECTS AND INSECTICIDES. Our Roses 

 are singularly free from insects, owing to 

 their vigor, but should they become infested, 

 a few applications of a good insecticide will 

 exterminate them at the outset, after which 

 very little or no trouble will be experienced. 



One of the most common of insects is the 

 green-fly, but they are readily removed by 

 syringing with clear water, smoking with 

 tobacco stems, or spraying with kerosene 

 emulsion or tobacco insecticide soap. 



The red spider is an insect so small that 

 it is not discernible to the naked eye, 

 and frequent syringing with the insec- 

 ticides named above should be resorted to 

 to remove it. The rose hoppers or thrips 

 can effectually be exterminated by syringing, 

 while the leaf-rollers, which resemble butter- 

 flies, of yellowish white color, can be picked 

 off by hand. The Rose bug can be removed 

 only by vigilant and unceasing syringing with 

 insecticides. 



Rose grubs are very destructive, feeding on 

 the roots of the Rose, and before one knows 

 that the plant has been destroyed they have 

 accomplished their work. The only remedy is 

 to dig into the ground and destroy them. If 

 the soil is continuously affected with them, 

 a good coating of air-slaked lime spaded in 

 well will prove helpful. 



The following receipts and preparations are 

 good. They should be applied both to the 

 upper and the under surface of the foliage 

 by means of a good sprinkler. We can supply 

 the Tyrian Plant Sprinkler, the Auto-Spray 

 and New Era Sprayer, at prices given else- 

 where in this book. All of these are inex- 

 pensive and very satisfactory and will add 

 much to the joy of growing healthy Roses. 



KEROSENE EMULSION. To two parts of 

 kerosene add one of slightly sour milk; agitate 

 and dilute with twenty parts of soft water. 



TOBACCO SOLUTION. Boil the leaves or 

 stems of tobacco and dilute to the color of 

 weak tea. 



TOBACCO INSECTICIDE SOAP. A stand- 

 ard remedy, and one of the best, with full 

 directions for use. Two sizes. Price 13 cts. 

 and 28 cts. each, postpaid. 



BUG KILLER. A new preparation for kill- 

 ing all kinds of bugs and pests that attack 

 Roses. Box sufficient for two gallons of 

 spray, 50 cts., 3 for $1.25, postpaid. 



WINTER PROTECTION. As to the classes 

 of Roses that are hardy and those that are 

 not hardy, this information is given in the 

 introduction of the individual classes. Where 

 it is possible, we would advise that the benefit 

 of the doubt be given by protecting all varie- 

 ties, irrespective of the class, for it will not 

 be harmful to protect even the Mosses or 

 Hybrid Perpetual Roses. Do not cover your 

 plants too soon; a nip of frost will not hurt 

 them, but will help to ripen and mature them. 



Sufficient covering should be given to 

 prevent the roots from freezing, but con- 

 siderable light and circulation of air should 

 not be excluded. In the spring, wait until 

 the weather is settled before uncovering. 



