They will stand wet weather with less rotting. 
Berries will not run down in size as fast, 
especially in dry seasons. Mulching materials 
can be used more effectively. Conditions for 
perfect pollination of the blossoms are more 
favorable. Berries are better in quality. Berries 
are easier to pick, resulting in less over-ripe 
berries. Spacing will pay if the cost can be 
kept fairly low. 
MR. GRANT CANTWELL 
With his knowledge of plants and love of the 
soil, Mr. Grant (as he is called by everyone) 
has been a valued worker for us for over forty 
years. He has had charge of setting and culti- 
vating our fields of plants. 
MULCHING 
A mulch is applied for one or all of several rea- 
sons: First, to guard against winter injury to roots and 
crowns by protecting them from the extremely low 
winter temperatures. Second, to avoid lifting the 
plants by the freezing and thawing of the soil in 
winter. Third, to keep the soil cool and moist and to 
retard or check growth of weeds and grass during the 
season when fruit is being produced. Fourth, to 
keep berries from being spattered with dirt by rain 
during fruiting season. Fifth, by delaying blooming 
it tends to prevent injury by frost in the spring. 
Time of Application. Experiments have shown 
that plants gain in hardiness during the winter and 
are much more resistant to low temperatures in 
Inarch than in November. Thus the mulch can be 
applied early and removed early even before the 
last freezes are over unless it is left to delay blooming 
either to escape late frosts or to aim for a better late 
berry market. 
Dr. Roberts obtained complete protection from an 
application made before first freezing weather but 
much injury to both crowns and roots from an equally 
heavy application rwo weeks later after a freeze 
had occurred. 
Generally speaking, mulches are not needed for 
winter protection South of Washington, D. C. Also 
the danger from partial smothering is greater unless 
watched carefully. In some sections of the South a 
mulch of light straw or pine needles is applied after 
cultivation in the spring to give the other benefits of 
mulching if winter protection is not needed. 
The amount of mulch required varies from one to 
four tons per acre. In removing the mulch the larger 
amounts should be raked up and removed from the 
field. The smaller amounts may be pulled to the 
center between the rows with enough left on them to 
work down between the plants in the row. 
The practice of leaving a mulch on to avoid late 
frosts involves much risk, and should be attempted 
only by experienced growers or on a small scale. 
Materials. Wheat straw and marsh grass are 
considered the best materials, but rye, pine needles, 
coarse strawy manure and various kinds of hay 
roughage can be used to advantage. A good prac- 
tice is to use the materials which are readily available 
at a reasonable price. 
IRRIGATION 
Various forms of irrigation are used by growers in 
different sections. Any method which economi- 
cally supplies needed water, especially just 
before fruiting time, will be helpful and worth 
while for strawberries. However, it is not necessary 
for good results. Most of the good berry crops in 
this country are produced on good strawberry land 
that has been well filled with organic matter by the 
addition of stable manure or green manure crops. 
SPRAYING 
Spraying is not usually necessary in growing 
strawberries successfully. Care in buying healthy 
plants and in selecting varieties immune or resistant 
to diseases and insects is much more important. 
When disease and insect troubles do occur we will 
be glad to help if we can. A service folder describing 
symptoms and control measures for some of the more 
important troubles has been prepared. This will be 
mailed on request. We suggest, however, that 
growers who are having serious trouble with their 
berries should get in touch with their county agent 
who should be familiar with local problems. These 
could not be covered adequately for all sections in 
any general circular. 
FOR THE SMALL GARDEN 
600 lbs. of fertilizer per acre means about 1 lb. 
for each 20 feet of row. 
Canvas irrigation hose adequate for small berry 
or vegetable gardens, can be attached to regular 
garden hose, using city or home water supply. 
In setting, hold the plant against the straight 
side of opening made with spade or trowel. Fill 
in loose dirt on the other side and pack firmly 
against the plant with hand or foot. 
No matter how long or how short leaf stems, 
fruit stems, and roots may be at time of setting — 
have the bud of the plant just at the surface. 
If it is dry when you are ready to set plants 
turn on the sprinkler or hose and moisten the 
soil some before setting. This is safer than setting 
plants in dry soil and watering afterward. 
Order 7 plants for each 10 feet of row you want 
to set, or figure about 5 square feet for each 
plant. Thus for a plot 10 ft. x 10 ft. you would 
need about twenty plants. 
