THE W. F. ALLEN CO., SALISBURY, MD. 



plant spread out fan-shaped, and be sure to have the crown at the surface of the ground 

 — not below nor above. 



In some sections where large acreage are planted, a small three furrowed list or 

 row is run up with a plow and then leveled off with a rake or drag. This gives a nice 

 soft planting bed, but unless the ground is quite moist the rows should be run up two 

 or three days before planting to allow the moisture to rise, and then rake off just before 

 planting. Plowing, narrowing thoroughly, and marking off rows is the best for small 

 fields and gardens. It is best for larger fields unless the grower is familiar with other 

 methods that have worked well under his conditions. 



Methods of Training. The matted row, hill, and hedge row systems are most 

 commonly used. We advise the hill and hedge row methods only for those who have 

 used them and found them satisfactory or for those who know of others nearby who 

 have used those methods successfully. They require more time, trouble and expense. 

 It is claimed for them that they make a larger yield of fine berries. 



We prefer the matted row for both garden and for field culture. The extra foliage 

 protects the fruit from scalding, makes them less sandy after a rain, and with us the 

 yield of large, well-shaped berries is usually greater than with any other system. It is 

 not so important to keep the row narrow, especially if the ground contains plenty of 

 moisture.^ Varieties with large plants like Big Joe, Ekey, Chesapeake, Wm. Belt, Early 

 Jersey Giant, Marshall, etc., rarely get either too wide or two thick. Very vigorous 

 growing varieties that have small plants, as Senator Dunlap, McAlpin, Warfield, etc., 

 on rich ground will set too thickly for fruiting purposes if not kept thinned. 



Probably 90% of all the strawberries grown in this country are grown in matted 

 rows. Under average conditions we would not want to use any other system. 



Cultivation. Young plants should be cultivated frequently after they begin to 

 grow. This is done not only to keep down weeds and grass, but also, to save more 

 moisture. After heavy rains the soil will become hard and "bake," causing it to dry 

 out quickly and be very cloddy when cultivated, unless the cultivation is done while 

 soil is still damp. So it is best to cultivate as soon after a rain as condition of the soil 

 will permit. 



In seasons of severe drought constant cultivation keeps a "dust blanket" over 

 the soil and prevents evaporation. So, even if no weeds or grass have started, it is 

 advisable to cultivate frequently. 



A hoe and 12-tooth cultivator are the best tools to use. In general, the patch 

 should be cultivated every ten days, or two weeks anyway. Skillful use of the culti- 

 vator will make necessary much less hand-labor. 



Young plants, set out in early spring, will blossom freely at the regular blossoming 

 season, and if not cut off will set and bear quite a few benies. But it is best to cut 

 these blossoms off so that the plants can make a more vigorous growth and be in better 

 shape to bear a full crop of fine fruit the following spring. 



Manure and Fertilizer. Thorough cultivation is the best treatment for a straw- 

 berry patch. Barnyard manure is the best fertilizer you can apply to the field. Ap- 

 plied broadcast before the plants are set (see Preparing the Land, page 8), is the best 

 way to get them started early and make a good growth. Manure can be applied, as a 

 top dressing on the plants, best in the fall. If handled in this way it acts as a mulch 

 during the winter and is very beneficial to the fruiting beds in the spring. 



If manure is not used, a high grade commercial fertilizer can be used to start the 

 young plants off. Apply this broadcast before the plants are set, or as a top dressing 

 afterward. Never put it in a furrow under the plants unless in very moist ground. If 

 stable manure is not used, a top dressing of fertilizer in the early spring will be very 

 beneficial to the fruiting beds. For young plants just set or for fruiting beds any fer- 

 tilizer containing 2-5% available ammonia and 5-10% available phosphoric acid should 

 be satisfactory. We use a 5-8-5 fertilizer for top dressing in Spring. 



Perfect and Imperfect Varieties. Perfect flowering varieties planted alone 

 will mature a crop of perfect fruit. Imperfect flowering varieties should have perfect 

 varieties planted with them, at least one row for every five or six. When two varieties 

 are used in equal amounts, they are often alternated three or four rows of each. In 

 our price-list, perfect flowering varieties are followed by "per" — imperfect varieties 

 by "imp". 



Mulching. A mulch is applied for one or all of three reasons: First, to protect 

 the plants from freezing and thawing of the soil in winter; second, to keep the soil 

 cool and moist during the season when fruit is being produced; third, to keep the berries 

 from being spattered with dirt by rain during fruiting season. 



The mulch should be applied in the fall. In the spring when plants begin to start 

 this is raked to the center of the rows and there serves the purpose of retarding the 



