ALLEN'S BOOK OF BERRIES 



Not only will the returns be profitable, but unlike 

 other fruit crops, the RETURNS WILL BE QUICK 

 and a SECOND CROP can be had with very little addi- 

 tional labor. 



CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 



Strawberries will thrive in any type of soil that is not 

 dry sand or waterlogged clay. They will often give 

 good crops in soils that have been given poor prepara- 

 tion. But, like other crops, they respond quickly to 

 good cultivation. 



One of the first essentials in producing a crop of ber- 

 ries is plenty of moisture. Springy land that is well 

 drained is therefore the best type of soil. But on other 

 types water can be conserved by cultivation or by 

 mulching, or in most cases there may be enough natural 

 rainfall at fruiting time. 



Preparing the Land. Potatoes, tomatoes, beans, cab- 

 bage, and other truck crops usually leave the ground in 

 excellent condition for Strawberries. This is because 

 they are kept well cultivated for a good part of the sea- 

 son and are usually well manured and fertilized. 



In all cases, sod land should be avoided for Straw- 

 berries, as the white grubs winter over in such land 

 and cut off young plants when set the following spring. 

 If you have no other land available, plow the land dur- 

 ing the fall and many of the grubs will be killed out 

 during the winter. 



Time to Plant — Important. In the extreme South 

 stock plants, free from nematode and rust, should be 

 planted in February, March, or early April. In the 

 middle states, March and April are the best planting 

 months. In the North — April. Plant in early spring, 

 just as soon as you can get your ground in condition. 

 This gives plants as long a growing season as possible 

 and the plants are set and growing before hot, dry 

 weather comes on. Be sure to have your plants on hand 

 when you are ready for them. Have your plants ship- 

 ped early (not later than April 15 to 20 — earlier if pos- 

 sible) and heel them in in some protected place and 

 cover with straw until you can plant. 



Setting the Plants. Just before planting, the ground 

 should be harrowed and made as level as possible. Then 

 mark out the rows and you are ready to plant. There 

 are a number of different methods of planting but 

 an ordinary garden trowel or a flat dibble are the best 

 tools to use. Whatever tool is used try to have the 

 roots of the plant spread out fan-shaped and be sure 

 to have the crown just at the surface of the ground — 

 not below nor above. 



Methods of Training. We prefer the narrow matted 

 row, because it requires less labor. The extra foliage 

 protects the fruit from scalding, and the yield of large 

 well-shaped berries is usually greater than in the 1 

 system or hedge row systems. 



Cultivation. Young plants should be cultivated fre- 

 quently after they begin to grow. This is done not only 

 to keep down weeds and grass, but also to save more 

 moisture. After heavy rains the soil (except very sandy 

 soil) will become hard and "bake," causing it to dry 

 out quickly and be very cloddy when cultivated, unless 

 the cultivation is done while soil is still damp. So it 

 is best to cultivate as soon after a rain as condition 

 of the soil will permit. 



In seasons of severe drought constant cultivation 



