STRAWBERRY PLANTS OF QUALITY 



as early in the spring as the ground can be worked; in the south 

 plants may be set any time from November 1st to April 1st. When 

 setting plants care should be taken not to let the plants be exposed 

 to the wind and sun. The roots should be kept damp and set in 

 moist soil and the soil should be firmly pressed around the plant so 

 it will not dry out, and not to set the plants too deep or too shallow, 

 the depth as grown in the nursery row being just right. The rows 

 should be about SV2 feet apart for the matted row system and 

 plants set 15 to 24 inches apart, according to variety; varieties 

 making few plants, like Chesapeake, should be set 15 inches and 

 prolific plant makers, like Dunlap, Klondyke and Missionary, can 

 be set 20 to 24 inches; most other varieties should be set 18 to 20 

 inches in the row. After the beds are 10 or 12 inches wide or as 

 wide as wanted, the runners should be kept cut off. 



Fertilizing — To get plants started early a light application of 

 fertilizer, if barnyard manure is not available, which is best spread 

 and harrowed in, should be made before planting; but I desire to 

 w^arn my customers against the too-heavy application of commer- 

 cial fertilizer to young strawberry plants. Many plants have been 

 injured and often killed outright; but 400 or 500 pounds will not 

 hurt them, provided it does not contain any potash and is w^ell scat- 

 tered and mixed with the soil before planting or put in two weeks 

 earlier. I always make another application in the late summer to 

 make stronger, better rooted plants, using about 350 pounds to the 

 acre, but be sure foliage is thoroughly dry before applying, and 

 brush it off the plants with a brush. An application of 5-8-5 fer- 

 tilizer in the early spring will make a heavier, better crop of fruit. 



Cultivation — Cultivation should begin as soon as possible after 

 plants are set and should continue once a week or 10 days if land 

 is in suitable condition, through the summer and early fall to keep 

 clean and help retain moisture. Hoe as often as necessary to keep 

 down weeds, but shallow, so as not to disturb the roots. 



Renewing the Patch — Most of my customers, I believe, will find it 

 profitable to leave their patches for the second crop. The first 

 step in renewing the patch after the first crop is off is as follows: 

 If the field is weedy, mow or cut it and rake it off. Cultivation 

 should begin at once, and if the matted row is too wide we take a 

 furrow away from each side of the row, leaving the bed about 10 

 inches wide, making a back furrow or ridge in the middle, which 

 should be cultivated down, a double shovel cultivator being the 

 best tool for this purpose. It is well to apply a liberal dressing 

 of well-rotted manure on the freshly harrowed earth and drag in. 

 Continue to cultivate same as first season and the second crop will 

 be as good as the first. I do not believe it advisable to fruit a patch 

 more than two years. 



Removing the Blossoms — This is very important, as all straw- 

 berry plants begin to blossom and bear fruit soon after being set 

 in the spring, and if the plants are allowed to bear fruit, the plants 

 are greatly weakened, as the production of fruit on these young 

 plants uses the greater part of their vitality; therefore, all blos- 

 soms should be removed. This may mean success or failure. On 

 everbearing varieties all blossoms should be removed until about the 

 middle of July, or until the plants get well started. 



