Distance to Plant: Tho plants should bo set from 

 15 to 30 inches apart in rows from SMj to 4V2 feet 

 apart. The distance plants are set in the row 

 should vary according to the variety. Heavy bed- 

 dinjj: varieties such as Blakemore and Dunlap 

 should be set fartlier apart than varieties that 

 make lart,'e i)lants but do not bed so freely, such 

 as Chesapeake or Norlhstar. We have found 3 feet 

 8 inches a good distance for the rows but on very 

 fertile soil it is well to si)ace them 4 or even 41^ 

 feet. With i)lanls set IS to 20 inches and rows 3 

 feet 8 inches about 8,()()() plants are reciuired per 

 acre. 



Cultivation: After tin; growth starts the plants 

 should be kept thoroughly cultivated. It is well to 

 cultivated at weekly intervals until the i)lant bed is 

 nuide. This will aid in preserving moisture and 

 will also cut down on the hoeing necessary to keep 

 down weeds. Cultivation next to the plants should 

 be shallow, stirring the soil to a depth of not more 

 than 2 inches. The plants should be hoed soon af- 

 ter they are set and care taken to uncover any 

 plants that have been set too deep. Hoeing should 

 also be shallow, from 1 to I'/o inches. In the cul- 

 tivation always avoid going to depth that will dis- 

 turb the roots. Generally, the well spaced matted 

 row is the best system for growing strawberries. 

 The lirst runners should be encouraged as the early 

 plants are much more productive than the late run- 

 ners. When hoeing see the plants do not be- 

 come too thickly set in the bed. This should be 

 given special attention with free bedding varieties 

 such as Blakemore and Dorsett. 



"With 31A foot rows a bed 18 to 24 inches wide, 

 with the plants well spaced, will be ideal for heavy 

 production of large fruit. Where the rows are fur- 

 ther apart the bed may be wider in proportion. 

 Be sure tliat the plants are not crowded in tlie bed. 

 For tlie hill system the plants are set much closer 

 and all the runners kept cut olf. As this method 

 reuuires much hand labor we feel it should be used 

 only when space is very limited or with the Ever- 

 bearers. 



Removingr Blossoms: Flower stems usually ap- 

 pear on strawberry plants soon after they are set 

 in the field and as the production of fruit is a se- 

 vere drain on their vitality, the flower stems should 

 be removed as they appear. With the Everbearers 

 the blossoms should be removed until the plants 

 are well established, this w^ill usually require about 

 sixty days. 



Fertilizer and Manure: Well rotted stable man- 

 ure is ideal for strawberries. This may be applied 

 immediately after the ground is plowed in the 

 spring and disced in. AVhen applied to the preced- 

 ing crop the results are usually as good as w^hen 

 applied directly to the soil for berries. If you do 

 not have this material, green manure and commer- 

 cial fertilizer may be used with very good results. 

 Though green manures are desirable they are not 

 essential for profitable berry production except 

 when the soil is deficient in humus (organic mat- 

 ter). For several years we have used a mixture of 

 3 parts of dissolved !)one and 1 part 1G% acid phos- 

 phate, at the rate of 700 lbs. per acre in the drill, 

 apjdied about a week before the plants are set. 

 This has given very satisfactory results. The fer- 

 tilizer should be thoroughly worked in and mixed 

 with the soil or it may be applied as a top dress- 

 ing after the plants are set. With unfavorable con- 

 ditions or with a late spring it is better to apply 



as a top dressing than to wait a week for the fer- 

 tilizer to l)fconie mixed witli the soil. Never set 

 tlie i)lants immediatelv after the fertilizer is ap- 

 plied. When it is ai)plied broadcast. lOOO ll)s. per 

 acre may l)e safely used but it should be worked 

 into llic soil well, at least a week prior to setting 

 plants. We do not recoinniend using more tiian 

 loot) ll)s. broadcast or 700 ll)s. in tlie drill. Raw 

 bone meal may l)e used and give very good re- 

 sults. However, this is ratlier expensive and is 

 slow to l>ecome availalile. Nitrate of Soda, Sul- 

 l»hate of Ammonia and Potash Salts should be 

 avoided as any of these materials will Imrii the 

 roots should they come in direct contact witli tliem. 

 If sucli material must be uscmI it siiould l)e applied 

 as a toi) dressing and placed considerable distance 

 from tlie i)lants. If poultry manure is availal)le a 

 c()ml)ination of two parts' manure and one part 

 1()% phosphoric acid will make a very satisfactory 

 fertilizer. This should l)e applied as any other 

 commercial fertilizer. A top dressing in late sum- 

 mer will often increase the yield and tlie size of 

 tho fruit considerably. Fall application is prefer- 

 able as it does not cause such a rank growth of 

 vines and weeds as when applied in the spring be- 

 fore fruiting. This should be a))plied when the 

 leaves are dry, at the rate of 000 to 800 lbs. per 

 acre, of a mixture containing from 4 per cent to 7 

 per cent nitrogen, per cent to 10 per cent i)hos- 

 phoric acid and 4 to per cent potash. All fertil- 

 izer should be brushed off the leaves. 



Mating: Varieties: The perfect varieties will pro- 

 duce a full crop of fruit when planted alone. The 

 imperfect varieties must be planted with some per- 

 fect variety of the same season to pollenize the 

 blossoms. There should be two rows of the per- 

 fect and four rows of the imperfect. All varieties 

 we list are perfect flow^ering. 



3Iulching:: There are several reasons why mulch- 

 ing is desiral)le. Its use prevents the freezing and 

 thawing of the ground in winter, keeps the soil 

 cool and conserves moisture during the fruiting 

 season and also helps to keep the berries clean dur- 

 ing a rain. Strawy stable manure, straw, wild h;iy 

 or marsh grass are materials commonly used, ap- 

 plied at the rate of about 3 tons per acre. The 

 mulch should be applied before the first hard 

 freeze, as it has been found that the first sudden 

 drop in temperature does more damage to unpro- 

 tected plants than subsequent' freezes, even though 

 the temperature may go much lower. In tiie si)ring 

 the mulch should be raked off between the rows 

 or worked down around the plants where it will 

 also serve to retard the growth of weeds. 



Spraying: and Dusting:: As strawberries are sel- 

 dom subject to any serious damage from diseases 

 or insects spraying or dusting are not commonly 

 practiced. Setting healthy plants of varieties im- 

 mune or resistant to disease is much more desir- 

 able. In sections where the Weevil (Clipper) pre- 

 vail they can be controlled by dusting the beds 

 just after the first buds appear, and again about 

 10 days later, with a mixture of 85% Sulphur and 

 15% Arsenate of Lead. 



Summer and Early Fall Planting: There are two 

 reasons why Summer and early Fall planting is 

 seldom successful; first, it is almost impossible to 

 get good plants and second'; even if you get good 

 plants they seldom, if ever, give as good results as 

 plants set in the early spring. Don't put off your 

 planting until Fall. If you do you are almost sure 

 to be disappointed. 



FIELDS TO BE PROUD OF SET WITH RAYNER'S VIGOROUS PLANTS 



^m 



