Dingee Roses and How to Grow Them 



The Best Varieties for Different Sections of the Country 



LL DINGEE ROSES are propagated under such 



favorable conditions that our shibboleth, "Din- 

 gee Roses Go and Grow Everywhere," is literally 



'true; but common sense tells us that certain 



kinds of Roses thrive better in some localities than in ■ 

 others. We are often asked our opinion upon this one 

 point, and in order to give our friends a guide for them 

 to follow we have tried to indicate as nearly as possible, 

 in connection with the different classes of Roses, the 

 section of the country in which each will thrive to 

 its full perfection with the least amount of protection. 

 But it must not be understood, because we prefer a 

 certain class for one locality, that it will not do well 

 in others. For instance, we recommend all the Hybrid 

 Perpetuals for planting in the extreme Northern States 

 and Canada, and yet these same varieties grow to great 

 size and beauty in Florida and Texas. On the other 

 hand, we state that some of the Tea Roses are best 

 for southern planting; but by careful protection they 

 may be grown successfully in Canada. 



PREPARATION OF BEDS. — To get the best results 

 from Roses when planted in beds is to make a trench 

 to a depth of l5 to 18 inches, that is, the soil should 

 be removed to that depth, well pulverized and mixed 

 with from one-third to one-fourth of its bulk with well 

 rotted animal manure, cow stable manure preferable 

 where it can be obtained. Before filling in the bed it 

 is well to put in some material for drainage, such as 

 soft coal cinders, broken crockery or stones, not too 

 large. Then return the soil to the trench, and when 

 returned it should stand from 3 to 4 inches higher 

 than the surrounding ground, as it will quickly settle 

 below the surface. It is necessary to do this, in 

 order that the rain water will drain quickly away from 

 the bed. If, however, the soil you remove from the 

 trench is not the best Rose soil, as the best kind of 

 soil for Roses is a clayey loam, if your soil does not 

 contain this it can be improved by mixing in sods from 

 the roadside or fields, but if your soil is too heavy it 

 should be lightened with a portion of sand. The soil 

 before returning to the trench should be well pulver- 

 ized, that is, make it as fine as possible, and also the 

 manure should be pulverized and not left in chunks if 

 you wish to obtain the best results. The selection of 

 your bed is a very important matter. Roses thrive 

 best where they can secure all the sun possible, that 

 is, do not plant them close to trees or shrubbery, as 

 the roots of these extend further than the branches. 

 Select, if possible, an open situation, where the plants 

 will receive plenty of air and sunshine. It is not, how- 

 ever, necessary that they should receive sunshine the 

 entire day. A southeastern exposure is an ideal one. 



FERTILIZER. — This is a question we are frequently 

 requested to answer. Animal manure from one to two 

 years old where it can be obtained is the best. Cow 

 manure is generally preferred. Horse manure when 

 new is very heating and should not be used while in 

 this condition, except as a winter mulch. Hog, sheep 

 and chicken manure are also very useful. The last 

 two, however, should be used sparingly. Ground bone 

 is beneficial, but should be secured as fine as possible, 



and it should be used sparingly. The best method is 

 sprinkling a portion over the bed until the ground is 

 entirely covered, then with the use of a fork it can 

 be dug into the soil and thoroughly mixed. You will 

 also find an occasional application of Bonora, such as is 

 offered in this book, will produce good results. Air 

 slacked lime is also beneficial, about a cupful to a 

 plant scattered on the surface in early spring and 

 mid-summer. 



PLANTING. — As soon as the plants are received it is 

 best to immediately plant, yet if it is impossible to do 

 this the plant should be placed in a cellar or moderately 

 warm place and protected from the sun. Set them 

 upright to admit the free circulation of air. Water 

 freely from time to time. The roots should be covered 

 with soil or burlap and never be allowed to become 

 dry. Soaking the roots in lukewarm water or thin 

 mud for an hour or two before planting to restore their 

 vitality is beneficial. Do not set the plants too deep 

 or too shallow. They should be planted a little deeper 

 than they were growing in the pots before shipping. 

 This can easily be determined by an examination of the 

 plant. The roots of the plants should be spread out 

 and not cramped. If you receive them with the soil on 

 the roots in which they have been growing, do not 

 remove this soil, but simply loosen it if packed in a 

 hard ball. Give them as near a natural position as is 

 possible. Use plenty of water after planting and shade 

 for a few days if the sun is hot, with newspaper or 

 similar material, and if the season is a dry one an occa- 

 sional watering will be beneficial. The best time to 

 plant Roses such as we send out, being pot grown, own 

 root stock, is in early spring as soon as all danger of 

 frost is past and the ground is warm and pliable, or, in 

 other words, about corn-planting time. This time, of 

 course, varies with the location. Here in Pennsylvania 

 about the first of May is our planting time. Further 

 North it is a little later; further South earlier. Febru- 

 ary, March and April are good months for Roses on 

 the Pacific Coast and the far South. This refers 

 entirely to pot-grown plants and not dormant plants. 

 By dormant plants we mean field-grown, that is, lifted 

 from the field and have not made any growth whatever. 

 Such plants as these should be set out earlier than pot- 

 grown plants. 



PRUNING. — As a rule the Roses that we send out 

 do not need any pruning, being pot-grown plants. 

 However, if the bushes are more spreading than is 

 desired it does not injure the plant any to prune it 

 back. This applies only to the pot-grown plants. 

 Where dormant or field-grown plants are secured they 

 should be pruned back before planting. Pruning can 

 be done at any season of the year with a certain class 

 of Roses, but it is a matter to be governed by the 

 judgment of the possessor of the plants. The best 

 time for pruning is in early spring, lust before they 

 begin to break at the eyes. Then it is well to trim 

 Roses back to about one-third to one-half the season's 

 growth. The larger and heavier the growth the more 

 it should be trimmed. 



