STRAWBERRY CULTURE-- (Continued) 



with the crown even with the surface and the soil 

 packed firmly about the roots. There are no ben- 

 eficial effects from clippiu;^ the roots but it is 

 better to clip off an inch or two tlian to liave the 

 roots doubled up. If a liorse drawn transplanter is 

 used tliis practice will be a great aid in getting the 

 plants set properly. It is very important to set the 

 plants at the proper depth, as any that are set too 

 deep will seldom amount to anything even though 

 they may live all summer and those set too shallow 

 will have the top of the roots exposed to the air, 

 this will dry the roots out and often the plant will 

 die. 



The most ])opular tools for setting plants are the 

 trowel, dibble or spado. Under favorable condi- 

 tions the horse drawn transplanter Avill give good 

 results provided the operators use care so that the 

 plants are set properly. 



Before setting, the plants should be soaked in 

 water for several hours or over night, so that the 

 roots may absorb all the moisture possible. This 

 will aid in carrying the r»iants until feeder roots 

 can be sent out. The plants should be protected 

 from the sun and wind and should be kept moist 

 until set. 



Distance to Plant: The plants should be set 

 from 15 to 24 inches apart in rows from 3'/2 to 

 iVj feet apart. Tlie distance plants are set in the 

 row should vary according to the variety. Heavy 

 bediling varieties such as Blakemore and Dunlap 

 should be set farther apart than varieties that 

 make large plants but do not bed so freely, such 

 as Chesapeake or Beauty. We have found 3 feet 

 8 inches a good distance for the rows but on very 

 fertile soil it is well to space them 4 or even 414 

 feet. With plants set 18 to 20 inches and rows 3 

 feet 8 inches about 8,000 plants are required per 

 acre. 



Cultivation: After the growth starts the plants 

 should be kept thoroughly cultivated. It is well 

 to cultivate at weekly intervals until the plant bed 

 is made. This will aid in preserving moisture and 

 will also cut down on the hoeing necessary to keep 

 down Aveeds. Cultivation next to the plants should 

 be shallow, stirring the soil to a depth of not more 

 than 2 inches. The plants should be hoed soon 

 after they are set and care should be taken to un- 

 cover any plants that have been set too deep. This 

 is important, don't neglect it. Hoeing should also 

 be shallow, from 1 to IV^ inches. In the cultiva- 

 tion always avoid going to a depth that will dis- 

 turb the roots. Generally, the well spaced matted 

 row is the best systein for growing strawberries. 

 The first runners should be encouraged as the ear- 

 ly plants are much more productive than the late 

 runners. When hoeing it is well to see that the 

 plants do not become too thickly set in the bed. 

 This should be gixt'U special attention with free 

 betiding varieties such as Blakemore and Dorsett. 



With 31/1! foot rows a bed 18 to 24 inches wide, 

 with the plants well spaced, will l>e ideal for heavy 

 production of large fruit. AVhere the rows are 

 fnriher apart the bod may be wider in proportion. 

 Be sure that the phtnts are not crowded in tlie bed. 

 l''or tlie hill system the plants are set much closer 

 and all the runners kept cut off. As this method 

 reciuires muc!) hand labor we feel it should be~ 

 used only when space is very limited or with the 

 Everbearers. 



Removingr Blossoms: Flower stems usually ap- 

 pear on strawberry jdants soon after they are set 

 in the field and as the production of fruit is a se- 

 vere drain on their vitality, the flower stems should 

 be removed as tliey appear. With the Everbearers 

 the blossoms should be removed until the plants 

 are well established, this will usually require about 

 sixty days. 



Fertilizer and Manure: Well rotted stable man- 

 ure IS ideal for straAvberries. This may be applied 

 immediately after the ground is plowed in the 

 spring and disced in. When applied to the proceed- 

 ing crop the results are usiiallv as good as when 

 api>lled directly to the soil for 'berries. If you do 

 not have this material, green manure and commerc- 

 ial fertilizer may be used with very good results. 

 1 hough green manures are desirable they are not 

 essential for profital)le berry production except 

 r \" U^® ''^'^ ^^ deficient in humus (organic mat- 

 t^r). For several years we have used a mixture 

 of o parts dissolved bone and 1 part 1G% acid 

 phosphate, at tlie rate of GOO lbs. per acre in the 

 drill, applied a)>out a week before the plants are 

 set. This has given very satisfactory results. The 

 fertilizer should be thoroughly worked in and mix- 



ed with the soil or it may be applied as a top 

 dressing after the plants are set. With unfavor- 

 able conditions or with a late spring it is better to 

 ajiply as a top dressing than to wait a week for 

 the fertilizer to become mixed Avith the soil. Never 

 set the plants immediately after the fertilizer is 

 applied, Avait at least a full Aveek. When it is ap- 

 plied broadast, 1000 lbs. per acre may be safely 

 used but it should be worked into the soil Avell, at 

 least a Aveek prior to setting i)lants. We do not 

 recommend using more than 1000 lbs. broadcast or 

 700 lbs. in, the drill. RaAv bone meal may also be 

 used and give very good resuts. However, tliis 

 is rather expensive and is sIoav to become avail- 

 able. Nitrate of Soda, Sulphate of Ammonia and 

 Potash Salts should be avoided as any of these ma- 

 terials Avill burn the roots should they come in 

 direct contact Avith them. If such material must 

 be used it should be applied as a top dressing and 

 placed considerable distance from the plants. If 

 poultry manure is available a combination of tAVO 

 parts manure and one part 1(5% phosi)horic acid 

 Avill make a very satisfactory fertilizer. This should 

 be applied as for the other commercial fertilizers. 

 A top dressing in late summer or early spring, 

 though not necessary, will often increase the yield 

 and the size of the fruit considerably. Usually 

 the fall application is preferable as it does not 

 cause such a rank growth of vines and Aveeds as 

 Avhen applied in the spring. This should be ap- 

 plied when the leaves are dry, at the rate of (iOO 

 to 800 lbs. per acre, of a mixture containing from 

 4 per cent to 7 per cent nitrogen, G per cent to 10 

 per cent phosphoric acid and little or no potash. 

 All fertilizer should be brushed off the leaves. 

 Many Southern groAvers include potash in their 

 berry fertilizer and have noticed a decided change 

 in the firmnes of the fruit. Although most Ex- 

 periment Stations advice against too heavy an ap- 

 plication of this ingredient, it Avas tried by some 

 of the groAvers on the Shore last Spring. When 

 an application of 4-8-12 w^as applied in March the 

 berry crop Avas poorer than Avhere no potash Avas 

 used, but Avhen applied in late December or early 

 January the berries seem firmer and arrived in the 

 distant markets in better condition than tlie fruit 

 from beds fertilized with a mixture that carried no 

 potash. Thus an early application of potash may 

 improve the shipping quality of your berries, but 

 try it lightly at first. 



Alating: Varieties: The perfect varieties Avill pro- 

 duce a full crop of fruit Avhen planted alone. The 

 imperfect varieties must bo planted Avitli some per- 

 fect variety of the same season to poUenize the 

 blossoms. There should be tAvo roAvs of the per- 

 fect and four roAvs of the imperfect or one third 

 perfect and tAvo thirds imperfect, planted in the 

 same roAV. All A'arieties we list are perfect floAV- 

 ering. 



IMuIchiner: There are seA'eral reasons why mulch- 

 ing is desirable. Its use prevents the freezing and 

 thawing of the ground in winter, keejts tlie soil 

 cool and conserves moisture during tlie fruiting 

 season and also helps to keep the berries clean 

 during a rain. Strawy stable manure, straAv, Avlld 

 hay or marsh grass arc mati'rials commonly used. 

 Many groAvers raise their mulch betAveen the straAX'- 

 berry roAVs. Spring oats are usually jilanted for 

 this purpose. These are planted about 50 days 

 before killing frosts are expected at the rate of 1 

 to IY2 busliels per acre. The first hard freeze kills 

 the oats Avhich fall doAvn and protect tlie plants. 

 If this practice is folloAved do not pl:int too tliick 

 or too close to the roAvs. In the spring the niulcii 

 should be raked oft between the rows or Avorked 

 doAvn around the plants Avliere it Avill also serve 

 to retard the growtli of Aveeds. 



Spraying and Dusting: As strawberries are sel- 

 dom suiiject to any serious damage from diseases 

 or insects spraying or dusting are not commonly 

 practiced. Setting heallJiy i)lnnts of varieties imp- 

 muue or resistant to disease is much more desir- 

 able. In sections Avhere tlie Weevil (Clipper) pre- 

 vail they can be controlled by dusting the beds 

 just after the first buds appear, and again about 10 

 days later, Avith a mixture of 85% Sulphur and 

 15% Arsenate of Lead. 



Summer and Early Fall Planting: There are two 

 reasons Avhy Summer and early Fall planting is 

 seldom successful; first, it is almost impossible to 

 get good plants and second; even if you get good 

 plants they seldom, if ever, give as good results as 

 plants set in the early spring. Don't put off your 

 ))lanting until Fall. If you do you are almost sure 

 to be disappointed. 



