KEY TO THE BULBS ILLUSTRATED ON THE COVER. {All much reduced in size.) 

 1 — Chinese Narcissus. 2 — Snowdrops. 3 — Scilla. 4 — Calla. 5 — Amaryllis. 6 — Hyacinth. 7 — Freesia. 8 — Crocus. 9 — Jonquil. 10 — ^Bermuda Lily. 

 11 — Paper White Narcissus. 12 — Canadian Lily. 13 — Double Nose Daffodil. 14 — Cyclamen. 15 — Roman Hyacinth. 16 — Tulip. 17 — Tiger Lily. 



HENDERSON'S ; FLO\A/ER /.BULBS. 



Bulbs (including corms, tubers, rhizomes and pips) are the thickened fleshy 

 subterranean stem ends of bulbous plants. The true or feeding roots grow 

 generally from the base of the bulb; the stems, flowers and foliage from the 

 crown of the bulb or eyes. A bulb therefore is a storehouse for the plant where- 

 in is formed in embryo — after flowering — new leaves, stems and flowers in fact a 

 complete new plant which is protected and sustained within the bulb by the 

 reserve food and energy collected therein during one season for its successor's 

 requirements during the next growing and flowering period. After which the 

 old plant above the bulb and the roots beneath ripen off and die "away. The 

 bulb is then in a " dormant " condition during which period — lasting approxi- 

 mately from three to six months — bulbs are taken out of the ground and trans- 

 ported like so many potatoes easily and safely from Continent to Continent, if 

 required, then replanted after which the incipient roots, stems, foliage and 

 flowers develop with as much luxuriance and perfection — conditions being 



congenial — as if the bulb had remained in its original environment. This 

 explains why — and it should be remembered when buying bulbs — that you can 

 only make them develop the flowers which were formed within them before 

 they were ripened up. If a young small bulb of a Hyacinth only contains six 

 bells in embryo on its embryo stalk, or a Lily of the Valley pip only five bells 

 on its incipient spike, or a Narcissus bulb only one flower, no one in flowering 

 them can make them produce any more, though good culture will develop 

 larger and better such flowers as the bulbs contained than poor culture. Con- 

 sequently where perfection of bloom the first season is the desideratum, which is 

 usually the case where bulbs are to be " forced " or flowered in the greenhouse 

 or house, then the best bulbs only should be purchased, even if they are higher 

 in price, for good bulbs produce like flowers, and poorer bulbs correspondingly 

 fewer flowers. The bulbs offered in this Catalogue are all winter and spring 

 flowering — and must be planted this fall. 



A FEW GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR GROWING BULBS. 



To Flower in the House in Winter and in the Garden in Spring. 



We can only generalize here on the cultural treatment of bulbs. — Directions 

 in detail suited to the different kinds are given in our book " Henderson's Bulb 

 Culture." (Price 50c. or given free if asked for with orders amounting to $3.00 

 or over.) 



Garden Culture of Hardy Bulbs. 



Most hardy bulbs thrive best in a sandy — loam soil, should the soil be hard, 

 stiff or clayey — a liberal admixture of leaf mould and sand will be beneficial 

 also well rotted manure — cow manure preferred — but be sure it is well rotted — 

 thoroughly and deeply dug in and incorporated with the lower " spit " of soil 

 where the feeding roots can get to it, but no manure — emphatically no fresh 

 manure — should be in the upper 6 inch layer of surface soil. The bulbs them- 

 selves must not come in direct contact with manure or they may become diseased. 

 A good way for beds intended exclusively for bulbs — is to throw aside the upper 

 6 inches of soil — prepare the ground below as directed, then level and cover 

 with an inch layer of sand, this prevents water from stagnating about the bulbs 

 which might cause decay to set in while they are dormant, and besides it is 

 much easier to place the bulbs in designs which may be marked out in the sand — 

 besides the bulbs are then set all of an even depth which insures uniformity in 

 time of flowering. After this replace the top soil. If it is not' practicable to 

 prepare the ground with manure as advised above — manure should not be 

 used at all. Then bone fertilizer — Ground Bone or Bone Meal 1 lb. to 10 

 square feet — should be used; this can be dug into both the lower and upper 

 layers of soil without danger. 



The proper depth to plant bulbs varies with the kind but a good general rule 

 to follow is three times their average diameter. (For hyacinths, tulips and 

 narcissus see under their respective headings.) 



The Culture of Bulbs for Winter Flowering. 



The principles of culture for bulbs are the same whether a few are to be grown 

 in pots or pans of soil for the window garden — or in " flats " (shallow boxes) to 

 be forced in the greenhouse for cut flowers, the important essential — we might 

 say the " Secret of Success " is perfect root development before the tops begin 

 to grow. This is done by potting the bulbs as soon as received between Sep- 

 tember and December — the earlier the better — and then standing the pots 



close together on the ground in a sheltered position in the garden, nail a 

 board frame around the lot and cover them 4 to 6 inches deep with leaf mould, 

 sandy soil, cocoanut fibre refuse, or similar material, working the same in 

 between the pots, to retain a uniform temperature and moisture. A good water- 

 ing after potted will be all that is required. A layer of an inch or so of ashes 

 under the pots will prevent worms from entering and facilitate drainage. An- 

 other method is to dig a trench in the garden the width of the largest pots and 

 a little deeper, stand the pots in it on ashes and cover as before directed, still 

 another way is to stand the potted bulbs on the floor of a cool airy cellar or out- 

 house, fill in between and cover as above, but watering will have to be attended 

 to here, for the bulbs must not dry out after they have started root growth 

 Bulbs to produce best flowers must be thoroughly rooted, indicated by the roots 

 protruding through the hole in the bottom of the pot, or the pot may be inverted 

 and the ball of earth tapped out to see if there is a good net work of roots about 

 the surface. Rooting requires about 8 weeks time though 5 to 6 weeks is suflS- 

 cient for early flowering bulbs like Roman Hyacinths, Paper White Narcissus, 

 etc. and 10 to 12 weeks time for late flowering Daffodils, Darwin and Cottage 

 Tulips, Potted bulbs even though rooted will stand in the cold plunge for weeks 

 without making much top growth, taking advantage of this a few pots of bulbs, 

 earliest first, may be removed to the house or greenhouse for flowering at inter- 

 vals of a week or so, thus keeping up a succession of bloom throughout the winter 

 When the bulbs are removed from the plunge they should be placed in a shed, 

 attic or store room, with a temperature not exceeding 50°, for two or three weeks 

 or until the foliage and flower, stenis have made some growth and colored green. 

 Then place in the window or sunlight where they are to flower preferably in a 

 temperature of 60° and not exceeding 70° for best development and lasting 

 quality. 



The best soil for potting bulbs in is rich loam mixed with sand and peat or 

 leaf mould; no manure should be used but bone meal 1 part to 50 of soil, may 

 with advantage be worked through. The tops of the bulbs should just show 

 above the soil when potted, 



HENDERSON'S PREPARED FIBRE (as offered on page 47) is an excellent 

 modern medium in which to grow and flower bulbs during winter in bowls, 

 jardineres, fern dishes, etc., without drainage. Always sweet, clean to handle, 

 and no drip. It is the most charming way of growing bulbs in the house. 



If you want Bulbous Flowers In your house this Winter, or in your garden next Spring, you must plant Bulbs this Fall. 



