^ Dingee Roses^Sn Own Roots. § 



How to Grow "Dingee Roses" 



All Dingee Roses are propagated under such fav- 

 orable conditions that our shibboleth, "Dingee Roses 

 Go and Grow Everywhere," is literally true; but 

 common sense tells us that certain kinds of Roses thrive 

 better in some localities than in others. We have 

 tried to indicate as nearly as possible, in connection 

 with the different classes of Roses, the section of the 

 country in which each will thrive to its full perfection 

 with the least amount of protection. 



Preparation of Beds 



The way to get the best results from Roses when 

 planted in beds is to make a trench to a depth of 1 5 to 

 18 inches, that is, the soil should be removed to that 

 depth, well pulverized and mixed with from one-third 

 to one-fourth its bulk with well-rotted animal manure, 

 cow stable manure preferable where it can be obtained. 

 Before filling in the bed it is well to put in some material 

 for drainage, such as soft coal cinders, broken crockery 

 or stones, not too large. Then return the soil to the 

 trench, and when returned it should stand from 3 to 4 

 inches higher than the surrounding ground, as it will 

 quickly settle below the surface. It is necessary to do 

 this in order that rainwater will drain quickly away 

 from the bed. If, however, the soil you remove from 

 the trench is not the best Rose soil, as the best kind of 

 soil for Roses is a clayey loam; if your soil does not 

 contain this, it can be improved by mixing in sods from 

 the roadside or fields; but if your soil is too heavy, it 

 should be lightened with a portion of sand. The 

 selection of your bed is a very important matter. 

 Roses thrive best where they can secure all the sun 

 possible; that is, do not plant them close to trees or 

 shrubbery, as the roots of these extend farther than the 

 branches. Select, if possible, an open situation, where 

 the plants will receive plenty of air and sunshine. A 

 southeastern exposure is an ideal one. They will, 

 however, do well in other locations, if given the neces- 

 sary care. Roses do better if they are watered in the 

 morning. 



Fertilizer 



This is a question we are frequently requested to 

 answer. Cow manure is generally preferred, and can 

 be used in fresh condition. Horse manure when new 

 is very heating and should not be used while in this 

 condition, except as a winter mulch. Hog, sheep and 

 chicken manure are also very helpful. The last two, 

 however, should be used sparingly. Ground bone is 

 beneficial, but should be secured as fine as possible, and 

 it should be used sparingly. The best method is sprink- 

 ling a portion over the bed until the ground is entirely 

 covered, then with the use of a fork it can be dug into 

 the soil and thoroughly mixed. Air slaked lime is also 

 beneficial, about a cupful to a plant scattered on the 

 surface in early spring and midsummer. A mulching 

 of cow stable manure is very beneficial during the 

 growing season. It helps to retain the moisture during 

 the dry season, as well as a food for the roots. 



Planting 



As soon as the plants are received it is best to 

 immediately plant, yet if it is impossible to do this the 

 plant should be placed in a cellar or moderately warm 

 place and protected from the sun. Set them upright 



to admit the free circulation of air. When you receive 

 them they will be wrapped in Sphagnum Moss, which 

 should be removed before planting, as it is used only 

 for protection. Water freely from time to time. The 

 roots should be covered with soil or burlap and never 

 allowed to become dry. Soaking the roots in lukewarm 

 water or thin mud for an hour or two before planting 

 to restore their vitality is beneficial. Do not set the 

 plants too shallow. They should be planted deeper 

 than they were growing in the pots before shipping. 

 This can easily be determined by an examination of the 

 plant. If you receive them with the soil on the roots 

 in which they have been growing, do not remove this 

 soil. Give them as near a natural position as possible. 

 Use plenty of water after planting and shade for a few 

 days, if the sun is hot, with newspaper or similar 

 material, and if the season is a dry one an occasional 

 watering will be beneficial. The best time to plant 

 Roses such as we send out, being pot-grown, own-root 

 stock, is in early spring. This refers entirely to pot- 

 grown plants and not dormant plants. By dormant 

 plants we mean field-grown; that is, lifted from the 

 field and have not made any growth whatever. Such 

 plants as these should be set out earlier than pot-grown 

 plants. 



Pruning 



As a rule, the Roses that we send out do not need 

 any pruning, being pot-grown plants. However, if 

 the bushes are more spreading than is desired, it does 



I not injure the plant any to prune it back. This applies 

 only to the pot-grown plants. Pruning can be done at 

 any season of the year with a certain class of Roses, but 



I it is a matter to be governed by the judgment of the 

 possessor of the plants. The best time for pruning is 

 early spring, just before they begin to break at the eyes. 

 Then it is well to trim Roses back to about one-third to 

 one-half the season's growth. The larger and heavier 

 the growth the more it should be trimmed. 



Winter Protection 



The protection necessary to keep Roses safely 

 through the winter months depends entirely upon the 

 character of the plant and the location. For such Roses 

 as the Hybrid Perpetuals, Rugosas, Harrison's Yellow, 

 etc., very little protection, if any, is necessary in any 

 climate, yet it is beneficial in the cold latitudes of the 

 North to give them protection of strawy horse stable 

 manure after the first hard freeze. The soil itself is a 

 good protection. When protecting the Teas and Hybrid 

 Teas it is a good plan to mound the earth about each 

 plant, or use clean sand about six inches deep, then fill 

 in between the mounds with strawy stable manure, the 

 coarser the better. The uncovered tops may be tied up 

 with straw or burlap. This protection should be grad- 

 ually removed in March in the latitude of Philadelphia, 

 or as soon as all danger of hard freezing is over. The 

 tender Roses may also be wintered in boxes or pots of 

 soil in a cool cellar or heeled in ! the earth itself ) . Where 

 you have a dirt floor two or three waterings will be 

 required during the winter, just sufficient to prevent 

 drying out. 



Diseases and Insects 



MILDEW — This disease very frequently attacks the 

 foliage of Roses, especially the Crimson Rambler. It is 

 shown by a grayish crinkling appearance of the leaves 

 and usually occurs after a change in the temperature. 



