Methods of Setting Plants 
Where commercial fertilizer is to be used under the 
plants, rows should be run out 3 or 4 inches deep with a 
one-horse plow, the fertilizer drilled into these rows 
and thoroughly worked in. Then the soil should be 
thrown back into these furrows and again leveled off. 
Where considerable acreages are planted, a horse- 
drawn transplanter such as is used for sweet potatoes, 
tomatoes, tobacco, etc., is often used. To do a good 
job this way, however, requires skill and experience, 
if the crowns of the plants are to be left at the proper 
level with the roots extending straight into the ground 
and not set on a slant, oftentimes near the surface of 
the ground. This method requires a driver, two 
operators and another man to walk behind to fill in 
missing plants, reset those too high or too low and to 
firm the soil around the plants. A spade, trowel or 
dibble are the tools most often used in setting plants. 
Where one of these is used, they are set down the pre- 
pared row with the roots of the plants spread out as 
much as possible and the bud of the plant just at the 
surface of the ground. It is also important to press 
the ground firmly against the roots and to see that dirt 
is filled in near the crown of the plant so that the top 
of the roots will not be left exposed. (See sketch for 
proper depth of planting.) Where the fertilizer is not 
put under the plants, the rows can merely be laid off 
with a marker and the plants set by any of the methods 
suggested down the marked row instead of down the 
fertilized row. 
Avoid Late Setting 
Late in the season plants have produced a heavy 
foliage growth. This drains the vitality from the roots 
and in hot, dry seasons especially will make them dry 
and withered by May 1st or soon after. In setting 
plants with a heavy top growth, when roots are set at 
the proper depth the long, large stems and leaves make 
the plants seem top-heavy and there is a tendency to 
set the plant too deep. If the plants are to live the 
buds must not be covered and the soil must be pressed 
firmly about the roots. When the weather is cool and 
soil conditions are good, such late-set plants generally 
prove satisfactory. If soil conditions are bad it is 
almost impossible to get a good stand and growth. In 
late March or early April when plants are still dormant 
or nearly so they are in ideal condition to transplant. 
If plants could be dug then and held in cold storage at 
about 32 degrees F. they would grow much better set 
out in May than freshly dug plants. Plants held that 
way will be in fine condition for planting and they can 
be taken out when soil and moisture conditions are 
most favorable. 
Manure and Fertilizer 
or using it as a side dressing soon after plants have 
started growth in the spring. Other organic forms of 
nitrogen like tankage or cotton seed meal would be 
satisfactory in this mixture. The formula should be 
fairly high in both nitrogen and phosphorus. Salts of 
nitrogen and potash should never be put on where 
they come in contact with the roots of strawberry 
plants. These materials in complete fertilizers have 
killed many plants in the past, the dying out occuring 
throughout the summer as the plants become gradually 
weakened. Wet weather and thorough mixing with 
the soil tend to lessen the chances of injury. 
Fertilizers for fruiting beds are most effective 
when applied in late summer or early fall. During the 
last of August we use about 600 lbs. per acre of a mixt- 
ure made up as follows: 300 lbs. Sulphate of Ammonia, 
300 lbs. Nitrate of Soda, 400 lbs. Dissolved Bone, 900 
lbs. Super Phosphate, 100 lbs. Muriate of Potash. It 
is most important that foliage be thoroughly dry when 
applications are made and that any which lodges on 
the leaves be brushed off promptly. Applications in 
late summer tend to aid in the development of fruit 
buds, strong crowns and large leaf area per plant. 
Spring applications are not recommended except where 
land is very poor or where the plant growth has been 
weak the preceding fall. Where spring applications 
are made they should be put on before growth has 
started. It is sometimes best to make spring applica- 
tions on two year old beds where the fruit buds formed 
may be plentiful but vigor not up to standard. 
As a substitute for the fertilizers recommended in 
either late summer or fall, tankage, nitrate of soda, 
cotton seed meal, or any other organic nitrogen can 
be used very successfully. Nitrate of Soda acts the 
quickest of anything but is more likely to burn unless 
care is used in its application. 
Fertilizer elements. We believe that most soils 
have sufficient potash for strawberries naturally present 
in them or left over from fertilizers applied to other 
crops. It is contended in some places that good results 
have been obtained by its use. We have included 2% 
of potash in our summer application for insurance only. 
We have never seen any direct benefit from its use. A 
fairly high percentage of phosphorus should be in- 
cluded in any fertilizer application for strawberries. 
Tests generally have shown a good response to its use. 
Nitrogen is the most important fertilizer element for 
strawberries. Contrary to popular opinion, the proper 
amount of nitrogen does not make berries softer ex- 
cept as it makes them larger. An excess of nitrogen 
will make berries softer and more subject to rot. The 
main reason for recommending summer applications 
to fruiting beds is that the nitrogen is used in stimu- 
lating fruit bud formation and strong crown develop- 
ment rather than a rank vegetative growth which is 
more likely from spring applications. 
For Everbearing strawberries, fertilizers should be 
similar to those for standard varieties except that 
three or four applications can be made during the 
summer and fall to help increase size and quantity of 
berries ripening during that period. 
Chemical fertilizers are not always needed. Soils 
that are naturally fertile and have had frequent ap- 
plications of stable manure may not need the addition 
of any chemical fertilizers. A rank healthy growth 
of plants with vigorous, dark green foliage is evidence 
that the fertilizer is not needed. Barnyard manure 
supplying both humus and nitrogen is the best fertilizer 
for strawberries. It should be applied broadcast and 
disced into the soil before plants are set. On very heavy 
soils it may be best to plow it under. Equally satis- 
factory results are usually had if a heavy application 
has been made to the previous crop. 
As a plant grower and starter we use about 700 
lbs. per acre of a mixture composed of 1500 lbs. Dis- 
solved (acidulated) bone and 500 lbs. Superphosphate. 
We have had very fine results from this mixture put 
in the drill and thoroughly mixed with the soil before 
plants were set. It can safely be applied broadcast 
but it is not as effective as putting it under the plants 
Spacing Plan to Show Method. O = Plants Set. 
X = New Runner Plants. Spacing for Profit 
Would Not Be So Exact, 
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