HARDY SPRING- FLO WE RING 



BUtBOU$ BOOT 



Bulbs belong to a particular division of the vegetable kingdom; they are all, with scarcely a 

 single exception, very ornamental, and hence desirable for the very large size of their flower in 

 proportion to the entire plant, and for the brilliancy of their colors. By far the greater number 

 of bulbs flower in the spring, and produce their flower stems immediately after they begin to 

 grow ; and shortly after they have flowered they cease growing and remain dormant and without 

 leaves during the remainder of the year; hence, almost all bulbs require to be planted in the 

 autumn — a fact which most amateurs are apt to overlook, and frequently send their orders out of 

 season. They require a free, dry and somewhat rich soil, into which the roots may penetrate 

 freely. A bulb is essentially a bud, and contains within itself the germs of the leaves and flowers 

 which are to be produced the following season ; thus, in one sense, they are of more easy culture 

 than any other class of plants, because the germ being previously formed, and the nourishment 

 being provided in the body of the bulb, it is only necessary to supply heat and moisture to cause 

 them to develop ; this is fully exemplified in the Hijacinth, Narcissus, Crocus, early Tnlijis, and 

 some other bulbs, which can be flowered when placed over water in glasses or in wet moss. The 

 Hyacinth is the especial favorite for forcing in glasses, and full directions for their management 

 will be found under the head of Hyacinths. 



SOIL. — The proper compost for Hyacinths, Tulips, Crown Imperials, Iris, Kanunculus, Ane- 

 mones, Crocus, and many other bulbs, is the following : one-third sand, one-third well rotted cow 

 manure, and one-third good garden mould. 



TIME OF PLANTING. — The preferable season for planting all hardy bulbs, is from October 

 to December; but they can be set out at any later time, so long as the bulbs remain sound. 



DEPTH AND DISTANCE. — Hyacinths, large Lilies and Pgeonias, should be planted at the 

 depth of four inches; Crown Imperials and Polyanthus Narcissus, five inches; Tulips, Double 

 Narcissus, Jonquils and Colchicums, three inches; Bulbous Iris, Crocus, small Pritillarias, Gladi- 

 olus Byzantinus and Snowdrops, two inches ; Ranunculus and Anemones, one inch ; always 

 measuring from top of the bulb. The rows should be about ten inches apart, and the bulbs to be 

 placed from four to eight inches apart in the rows, according to their size. As the cold weather 

 approaches, give the bed a good covering of leaves, hay, old manure or tan, to prevent the frost 

 from penetrating to the bulbs. Early in the spring, as soon as the shoots are pushing through it, 

 the covering should be carefully removed, and the earth slightly stirred with a garden fork. 



TAKING UP AND PRESEKVING.— Take up Bulbous Roots about a month after the blos- 

 som is completely over, in the following manner : when the plants put on a yellowish decayed 

 appearance, take up the roots, cut off the stem and foliage within an inch of the bulbs, but leave 

 the fibres, etc., attached to them; spread them in an airy room for two or three weeks to dry, 

 after which wrap each root carefully in paper, (as the air is very injurious to bulbs,) o,' cover 

 them with perfectly dry sand. 



Bulbs intended for blooming in pots during the winter season, should be planted during the 

 months of October and November, and be left exposed to the open air (covered with a few inches 

 of tan or soil) until they begin to freeze, and then be placed in the greenhouse or a room where 

 fire is usually made. They will need, occasionally, moderate watering until they begin to grow, 

 when they should have an abundance of air in mild weather, and plenty of water from the 

 saucers whilst in a growing state ; and should be exposed as much as possible to the sun, air and 

 light to prevent the leaves from growing too long or becoming yellow. 



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