ejteart>^3l0mi^l^.#^t^okya. 



Two-year size 



& 

 One-year size 



-size (3-year size, dormant) 



plant them just a little deeper than they formerly grew, with upper 

 roots I or 2 inches under ground,, Make the hole in which the plant 

 is to be set large enough so that the roots can be spread out natu- 

 rally. Plants with cramped roots never do so well as those that have 

 plenty of root-room w'hen planted. Use plenty of water when plant- 

 ing, to work the soil in among the roots. As the soil is being thrown 

 in about the ball, pour in a pailful of water. When the hole is almost 

 full, pour in another pailful, then set the next plant. In three or 

 four hours, when the surplus water has drained away, finish fiUing 

 the hole with soil and tramp the earth firmly about the plant. The 

 after-cultivation consists of frequently stirring the surface soil to 

 maintain a dust mulch — about once a week and as soon as possible 

 after each rain will be sufficient. 



Unless they be tall or tree Roses they are likely not to need staking. 

 If the sun be warm a shading for a few days may be beneficial, also 

 a mulch about the roots. 



Labeling. It w^U add immeasurably to your pleasure and future 

 knowledge, either to make a diagram of your planting showing the 

 name and location of each variety, or else label each. Imperishable 

 metal labels at one or two cents each will enable you to hang the 

 right name on every bush until you know^ your pets by their Catalog 

 name. 



Mulching. The main object being to retain the moisture rather 

 than to enrich the soil. Cultivate the garden once a week up to the 

 middle of July to maintain a dust mulch, after that a liberal covering 

 of "long" cow or horse stable manure that will not heat will accom- 

 plish this purpose best. 



Winter Protection. Where the temperature gets below freezing, 

 the less hardy Roses will require protection and all of them will be 

 the better for it, at least, about the roots. Soon after the first frost 

 (see calendar), having hilled up the soil around the stems, cover the 

 Rose beds all over with a 3- or 4-inch layer of good heavy stable 

 manure, and over this a 6- or 12-inch layer of leaves held in place by 

 the most sightly material available. A 12-inch fence of poultry wire 

 will keep the leaves in bounds nicely. If leaves are not available, 

 straw, corn-fodder and even boxes put over the Roses to shed the 

 rains will protect from the cold biting winds and the alternate freez- 

 ing and thawing of early spring sunshine and cold nights, but do not 

 smother the Roses, for if too tightly covered they will die. Remove 

 the covering gradually in the spring when danger from frost is past 

 (see calendar page 6). 



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