DREER'S DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF BULR-. 1 



HARDY SPRING FLOWERING 



BULBOUS ROOTS. 



THEIR NATURE AND TREATMENT, 



Planted f:r,o:m: October, to Decembeb. 



Bulbs belong to a particular division of the vegetable kingdom ; they are all, with scarcely 

 a single exception, very ornamental, and hence desirable for the very large size of their 

 flower in proportion to the entire plant, and for the brilliancy of their colors. By far the 

 greater number of bulbs flower in the spring, and produce their flower stems immediately 

 after they begin to grow ; and shortly after they have flowered they cease growing and remain 

 dormant and without leaves during the remainder of the year ; hence, almost all bulbs re- 

 quire to be planted in the autumn — a fact which most amateurs are apt to overlook, and fre- 

 quently send their orders out of season. They require a free, dry and somewhat rich soil, 

 into which the roots may penetrate freely. A bulb is essentially a bud, and contains within 

 itself the germs of the leaves and flowers which are to be produced the following season ; 

 thus, in one sense, they are of more easy culture than any other class of plants, because the 

 germ being previously formed, and the nourishment being provided in the body of the bulb, 

 it is only "necessary to supply heat and moisture to cause them to develop ; this is fully exem- 

 plified in the Hyacinth, Xarcissus, Crocus, early Tulip, and some other bulbs, which can be 

 flowered when placed over water in glasses or in wet moss. The Hyacinth is the especial 

 favorite for forcing in glasses, and full directions for their management will be found under 

 the head of Hyacinths. 



SOIL. — The proper compost for Hyacinths, Tulips, Crown Imperials, Iris, Ranunculus, 

 Anemones, Crocus, and many other bulbs, 13 the following: one-third sand, one-third well- 

 rotted cow manure, and one-third good garden mould. 



TIME OF PLANTING. — The preferable season for planting all hardy bulbs is from 

 October to December ; but they can be set out at any later time, so long as the bulbs remain 

 sound and the ground is not frozen. 



DEPTH AND DISTANCE.— Hyacinths, large Lilies and Paeonias, should be planted at 

 the depth of four inches ; Crown Imperials and Polyanthus Narcissus, five inches ; Tulips 

 Double Narcissus, Jonquils and Colchicums, three inches; Bulbous Iris, Crocus, small Fri- 

 tillarias, Gladiolus Byzantinus and Snowdrops, two inches ; Ranunculus and Anemones, one 

 inch ; always measuring from the top of the bulb. The rows should be about ten inches apart, 

 and the bulbs to be placed from four to eight inches apart in the rows, according to their size. 

 As cold freezing weather approaches, give the bed a good covering of leaves, hay, old manure 

 or tan, to prevent the frost from penetrating to the bulbs. Early in the spring, as soon as 

 the shoots are pushing through it, the covering should be carefully removed, and the earth 

 slightly stirred with a garden fork. 



TAKING UP AND PRESERVING.— Take up Bulbous Roots about a month after the 

 blossom is completely over, in the following manner : when the plants put on a yellowish 

 decayed appearance, take up the roots, cut off the stem and foliage within an inch of the 

 bulbs, but leave the fibres, etc., attached to them; spread them in an airy room for two or 

 three weeks to dry, after which wrap each root carefully in paper (as the air is very inju- 

 rious to bulbs), or cover them with perfectly dry sand. 



Bulbs intended for blooming in pots during the winter season should be planted during 

 the months of October and November, and be left exposed to the open air (covered with a 

 few inches of tan or soil) until they begin to freeze, and then be placed in the greenhouse or 

 a room where fire is usually made. They will need, occasionally, moderate watering until 

 they begin to grow, when they should have an abundance of air in mild weather, and plenty 

 of water from the saucers whilst in a growing state ; and should be exposed as much as pos- 

 sible to the sun, air and light to prevent the leaves from growing too long or becoming 

 yellow. 



