PLANTING DISTANCES. In general we 

 recommend setting plants 18 to 20 inches 

 apart in rows 4 feet apart. This requires 

 a little over 7,000 plants per acre. (See 

 table) Somewhat closer planting is satis- 

 factory in small gardens where space is 

 limited, for the hill system as with ever- 

 bearers, or for late setting where a good 

 stand is uncertain. Closer setting is sug- 

 gested also for varieties that make few 

 plants and for varieties which are not 

 virus free. 



For the small garden order 7 plants 

 for each 10 feet of row you want to set 

 or figure 1 plant for each 5 square feet. 

 Thus for a plot 10 by 10 you would need 

 about 20 plants. 



High yields can be had from small plots 

 by using the hill system where all run- 

 ners are cut off. There are many vari- 

 ations of the hill system. One of the 

 most practical is to use a double hill row 

 with plants 12 inches apart in the row 

 and 30 inches between each double hill 

 row. This plan makes possible economies 

 in cultivation and runner cutting. All hill 

 system plans require extra plants. 



PLANTS FOR VARIOUS PLANTING 

 DISTANCE 



Rows 



In the row Total per acre 



3 ft. apart 18 inches 



3 ft. " 24 

 3V 2 ft. " 18 " 

 3% ft. " 24 " 



4 ft. " 18 " 

 4 ft. " 24 " 

 3 ft. 8 in. " 18 



9,680 plants 



7,260 " 



8,297 



6,223 



7,260 



5,445 



7,128 



SOIL AND LOCATION. Any soil that 

 makes good yields of garden or field 

 crops will produce strawberries in abun- 

 dance, whether that soil is a light sandy 

 loam or a heavy clay. Here are some 

 pointers. 



1. In rolling country a sloping field gives 

 better air drainage and less injurious 

 frosts. 



2. Run the berry rows across a steeply 

 sloping field rather than up and down 

 to help prevent erosion. 



3. Follow a hoed crop to make less 

 weeds and grass to contend with in the 

 strawberries. 



4. Avoid sod land that may harbor grub 

 worms which cut or injure your plants. 

 Treatment makes the use of sod land 

 much safer. 



5. Change the place of the strawberry 

 bed every few years. It will help to keep 

 up the vigor and growth and reduce the 

 danger of a build up of disease and 

 insect trouble. 



6. A rank growth of weeds and grass on 

 a vacant lot, garden plot or unused field 

 indicates soil fertile enough to grow good 

 crops of strawberries. 



7. Most important of all — Select land 

 that holds moisture well because (a) it 

 is naturally springy, (b) it has a high 

 water table, (c) because lots of organic 

 matter in the form of animal manures or 

 green crops has been incorporated in the 

 soil. Of course, if irrigation is available, 

 you can give the plants water when 

 necessary. 



LAND PREPARATION. In late winter or 

 very early spring the land should be 

 plowed or in small plots spaded to a 

 depth of 6 to 8 inches. Then with a har- 

 row or rake it should be leveled off to 

 form a smooth friable planting bed. Here 

 are some of the things which are not 

 necessary but which are very helpful in 

 getting bigger, better crops of berries: 



1. Plowing under in late summer a heavy 

 growth of green crops such as peas, 

 beans, clover, sowed corn, weeds, grass, 

 etc. All these rot quickly and are much 

 more valuable for the strawberry crop if 

 plowed under while still green. 



2. Early fall sowing of rye or wheat to 

 give a heavy sod to be plowed under in 

 late winter or very early spring. This 

 will be easier to handle if disced up 

 thoroughly before plowing. 



3. Applications of horse, cow, hog, or 

 sheep manure at the rate of 5 to 20 tons 

 per acre. This is the best of all prepara- 



34 



