PETER HENDERSON & CO., NEW YORK.— BULBS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING. 



/CULTURAL 



INSTRUCTIONS 



HARDY BULBS 



OPEN GROUND. 



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The «oll for most hardy bulbs should be sandy loam. If it is stiff clay mix in 

 Band and leaf mold. The texture of the soil should be such that it will not 

 retain stagnant water. Well-rotted stable manure should be dug in deeply and 

 should be placed where the long feeding roots ran get at it and yet not come in 

 contact with the bulbs. This is easily accomplished, and pays for the extra 

 trouble if six Inches of the top soil is first removed. Then apply the manure and 

 dig it in thoroughly ; level off ; then put on an Inch of sand ; set the bulbs on it ; 

 then replace the top soil. Bulbs planted In this manner can be placed in their 

 exact positions, and being of an even depth will flower more uniformly. The 

 wind allows the water to drain away from the bulbs, an advantage in design 

 bedding, and prevents manure from touching them, either of which may cause 

 dormant bulbs to decay. 



Where it Is impracticable to prepare the beds as just advised then it is safer 

 to use bone meal in place of stable manure. Most bulbs like rich food if properly 

 applied, and although their flowers were formed the previous season, yet their 

 development, size, luxuriance and brilliancy this season depend largely upon the 

 nutrition the roots are consuming. Liberal applications of manure water when 

 the bulbs are in bud often produce magnificent results. 



The proper depth to plant bulb«: it is a common fault to plant too shallow. 

 'Hardy bulbs throw out their roots during the fall and early winter, and if 

 planted too near the surface the freezing, thawing and heaving of the upper 

 crust of the soil in mild winters often cause the bulbs to break from their 



roots and produce only Inferior flowers in cunse^uenee. Lilies should bet- 

 planted 8 to 12 inches deep ; Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus and similar large bulb^ 

 from 5 to 6 Inches deep ; Crocus, Scillas and similar bulb.- 3 to i inches deep. 

 When the weather is cold enough to freeze a crust on the sell then cover the* 

 beds with leaves, straw or marsh hay to a depth of from 4 to inches. This pro- 

 tects not only from severe freezing, but from equally Injurious unseasonable 

 thaws. Do not put this covering on too early, for the warmth might cause the- 

 leaves and flowers in the bulbs to start, and afterward to be injured from freez- 

 ing. Kemove the covering in the spring gradually. 



The proper time to plant hurdy bulb* in the open ground is from i to e> 

 weeks before regular freezing nights, cool weather being necessary to deter top- 

 growth, which is liable to start after 4 to 6 weeks of root development. This- 

 brings the planting season for such hardy bulbs as Hyacinths, Tulips, Nai 

 etc., in September in latitude of Maine, Ontario, Wisconsin, etc. ; in latitude of 

 New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Ohio, etc., plant in October ; in latitude of Virginia,, 

 Kentucky, Missouri, etc., November is early enough. South of that do not- 

 plant before December, unless you wish to risk the occasional freezing weather* 

 in January and February, which usually catches early-planted bulbs in full 

 wealth of foliage and bud, destroying them, though in this section very early- 

 flowering bulbs, such as Roman Hyacinths, Due Van Thol Tulips, Paper White 

 Narcissus, etc., if planted in September, will usually be through flowering before 

 freezing weather. 



/Cultural 



^ instructions 



FOR 



Winter=flowering 

 Bulbs. 



One of the most important essentials — we might say the secret of success 

 in flowering bulbs in the house or greenhouse— is perfect root development 

 before the tops commence to grow. To aid the uninitiated in this important 

 matter, we will illustrate : When hardy bulbs are planted in the open ground in 

 Northern States, by the time the bulbs show signs of growth the weather above 

 them Is cool or cold, the ground beneath them is warmer, the conditions are 

 congenial for root action and deterrent to top growth, results perfection in 

 development of such (lowers as the bulbs contained. A bulb does not seem to 

 care which end starts into grow th ilrst. and when it is not under natural condi- 

 tions, it usually chooses the wrong end, the top, so when we grow them under 

 artificial conditions, to be successful, we must overcome their unfortunate ten- 

 dency and make them produce roots first. The failures to do this are responsible 

 for nine-tenths of the disappointments. 



When hardy bnltM Br* to be grown In pot» or winter blooming the 



bulbs should be potted as soon as they are procurable, between August and 

 November. 



The sol] nsed should be rich loam ; no fresh manure can be used, though If 

 thoroughly rotted, some may be pulverised and worked through, but it I uafi r 

 to us.- in place pun- bone meal, one part to fifty of soil. II the soil is stiff and 

 ii. i\ \ mix 11 with sand and leaf mold or peat The sire of pots required depends 

 upon the kinds ol bulbs. A five-inch po1 Is best for a flrsl sized named Hyacinth. 

 Similar large bulbs require the sun. size pot Tulips and bulbs of a similar size, 

 while they can go Individually in a four-inch pot, yet it is better t<> put three or 

 more bulbs of one varletg In a larger pot, as the soil retains a more even tem- 

 perature and moisture. For this reason some people prefer earthen bulb pans, 

 which come En various sizes, from eight to eighteen inches in diameter, in pot- 

 ting, place a little broken pol tery or lump- ol charcoal In the bottom for drain- 

 age, then mi the pot with soil and shake If down, but do not pack II \ neither 

 must the bulb be pressed or screwed Into the soil, which packs the soil under it 



SO when the rOOte start t he\ often raise the bulb OUl of the )"' 



Wheremore than one bulb is planted in th< pot.] inorbox. If they are 



not all of one variety, care should be nsi d In -■ U ctlng different varlel 

 will (Iowa b>1 the ■ nil.' timi \n early-flowering Due Van Thol Tulip and a 

 double rournesol would flower a month apart under same treatment. Some 

 varieties of Hyacinths, Narcissus and varieties of most species of bulbs vary 

 greatly In time of blooming, which, ol course, would spoil the effect 



The tops ,.f the bulbs (excepting Lilies are kept about even with the top of 



the BOll. 00 not water them UnTeSS the soil is very dry, for bulbs in a dormant 



condition resent an excess of moisture. After the bulbs are potted, as de- 

 scribed, they thOUld then be placed ina cold frame or cold pit to root. This is 

 the most important detail in flowering bulbs under artificial conditions. Cover 

 the pots, boxes or pans s Ith four Inches of sand, ashes, rotted leaves, tanbark or 

 similar substance, and do noi pul the sashes on until freezing weather, and even 

 then remove the ■ash on pleasant days. Where no cold frames or pits are avail- 

 able, the p..ts may be covered as advised ina c<k>1 cellar ; it is preferable, how- 

 ever, to sink them right out In the open ground. The writer never has finer 

 Bowers <•" bard] bulbs than when treated thus: A trench Is dugs root deep In 

 the garden where water will not settle on it and it i< protected from the north 

 and wi st cold. Three inches of coal ashes Is itr-t placed In the trench to allow 

 drainage and keep the worms out. The pots are then placed on the asms the 



earth is filled in, working it among the pots, filling Up the trench, rounding;' 

 over. No further attention is then required. Everything is congenial t" perfect 

 root development while it is cool enough above to check top growth, ^ I 

 weather gets cold enough to freeze a crust on the soil then an additional cover- 

 ing Of about four Inches <>f rough stable manure, leaves or straw is put over. 

 Some early bulbs, such as Roman Hvaeinths. Paper White Narcissus, Hue Van 



Thol Tulips, etc. will root sufficiently In five or six weeks to be taken up for first 

 flowers, which Bhould be out by Christmas or earlier, but it Is safer to allow all 

 bulbs not less than eight wirks for rooting. Every two weeks after the first 

 removal of pots, or as needed, further relays of rooted bulbs may be taken out 

 for a continuous display of bloom. 



When the pot» of hardy bulbs have been taken up place them in a COOl 

 greenhouse or cot. 1, light storeroom where iml over fitly degrees, which tetupei.i- 

 ture will allow the Mower stems and foliage to grow, ami at the same time? 

 previ ni the opening ol the flowers until the stems have attained their proper 

 height, after which the pots may he taken to a sunny warm window or when ver 



they are wanted !■■ Rower. Kuibs treated in this manner Will produce perfect 



spikes of perfect flowers. \ e I rule to keep In mind In dowering hardy bulbs 



is 10 degrees for rOOtS, 60 degrees for foliage and stems, <;<> degrees I 



flowers, 50 degrees for quick development, 80 degrees t" rush bloom with loss of 

 substance and risk of going blind. 



The exceptions to the above advice are Llllums and Lily of the Valley. 

 Lilium Harris! and Lilium Longiflorum bulbs particularly. In addition to throw- 

 ing out roots from the base "i the bulbs, usually form rooti from the new stem 

 just above the hulh, and the plants and (lowers derive much strength from theso 



So, In potting Lily bulbs, it Is best to pul them down deep enough, s<» 

 there win be sufficient soil above the bulbs to entice and sustain the stem roots. 

 in other respects treat the bulbs alter potting as advised above, 



Winter-flowering Lily of the Valley forms no new roots, but the thick, 

 fleshy, fi brou mid be I rimmed at the bottom, leaving them from two 



to three Inches long. This allows them to absorb the abundant moisture with 

 which they should be supplied while the flow< n and foliage are developing. 

 Th- •■ Bowei |u ts well In sand or moss or anything that retains an even moisture 

 and temperature, as they do In soil, but l.ily of the Vail. > . tor flt 

 bouse "i greenhouse, does require freezing before it can be successfully brought 

 Into flower. Without it. many pips will ** come blind" or produce malformed 

 spikes, well for amateurs to plant their pips an inch or tw< 



i r Lily pan- and plunge them in the garden, as recommended ah 



other hardy bulbs. 



Ilnl i II nr.l % Itulh* for Winter Flowering and Forcing should DC : 

 thi ime a- hardy bulbs, excepting that after potting thej should be placed for 

 rooting whi t- they will nol freeze, yet they can gopretta close t.. it and b. all 

 the better f.>r it. in Northern States a cold frame or pit or cold greenhouM to 

 r-».t them in is, therefore, almosl Indispensable. 



The Culture of Tender Winter and Bummer Flowering Ilulba differs 



from that of hardy and half-hard J BOrtB in lt« hen.. 



■i hi- sorts, whether dormant or growing, In a warm sdti 

 tout as low a temperature nsanj ol them will grov 

 If 80 degrees or over they usually give better ri 



