IS MULCHING NECESSARY? Mulch- 
ing is necessary for winter protection in all 
the Northern States and would be helpful in 
many fields as far South as Virginia and 
Kentucky. In addition to giving protection 
from cold, mulching helps to keep down 
weeds and grass, to conserve soil moisture 
and to keep the fruit bright and clean. 
The mulch should be applied in the fall 
after frost and light freezes (25 to 28 
degrees F) have occurred but before hard 
freezing (20 degrees F or lower). It should 
be removed (at least partly) soon after 
growth starts in the spring. 
Wheat straw and marsh grass are con- 
sidered the best materials. Rye straw, pine 
needles, coarse strawy manure and various 
kinds of hay are satisfactory. In some sec- 
tions sawdust has been used with good 
results. Use whatever you have or can buy 
at a reasonable price. 
WILL IRRIGATION PAY? If you 
have irrigation, it will certainly pay to use 
it for strawberries, especially just before 
fruiting time. However, irrigation is not 
necessary. Most of the fine berry crops in 
this country are produced on good straw- 
berry soil that holds moisture well because 
stable manure and green crops have been 
added, or because of a high water table. 
DO STRAWBERRIES NEED SPRAY- 
ING? When good varieties are selected 
and clean healthy plants are used, straw- 
berries do not need spraying as a rule. If 
insect or disease troubles should appear, our 
FREE circular on STRAWBERRY INSECTS 
AND DISEASE may be helpful in identify- 
ing the cause and applying the remedy. 
Don't fail to set strawberry plants 
this spring, as early as possible. IN 
NO OTHER WAY can you get a full 
crop of berries in late spring or early 
summer of 1950. We have no plants of 
any variety to sell for shipment in June 
July, August, September, and October. 
Two-row tractor drawn transplanter 
used for setting large acreage. 
27 
15 pint flat crate — A handy package for 
displaying and marketing everbearing berries. 
GROWING EVERBEARERS 
In growing everbearers you don't have to wait 
very long for results. No other fruit crop can touch 
everbearing strawberries for quick returns. Plants 
are set in March or April. Berries are ripening from 
August to November of the same year. 
Where Everbearers do well, mostly in the northern 
states, some growers use them successfully as a 
money crop. Generally, everbearers are not as cer- 
tain and sure in their cropping as spring varieties, 
so before starting out in a fairly big way, try Ever- 
bearers in a small way, to see if you have the climate 
and conditions where they produce berries in satis- 
factory amounts. Be sure you are right — then go 
ahead. For profit, it's a good idea to select one of the 
Everbearers like Mastodon, which makes a pretty 
good spring crop, even if the fall crop fails. 
Everbearing varieties during the first few weeks 
must build up the strength and vitality to produce 
fruit this year as well as to continue growth. 
Set good strong plants on well prepared land and 
set them early on soil that is retentive of moisture or 
where water can be applied or conserved by mulch. 
Cut off the spring blossoms as soon as they appear 
and remove the summer blossom clusters at each 
hoeing until about the middle of July. 
Everbearers give a greater response in fall fruit 
production to liberal applications of stable manure 
broadcast before planting than to any one thing we 
can mention. 
Everbearers are often grown by the hill system, as 
it is thought the plants produce more fruit if runners 
are removed. Where this sytem is used plants may 
be set closer together. Plants 18 inches apart in rows 
2 feet apart are not too close for hill culture. We have 
obtained the highest yields of good berries in regular 
rows with new runner plants spaced 4-6 inches apart 
in the bed. 
Yields. Everbearing plants set early on good, moist 
soil should yield one pint or more per plant during 
late summer and fall. Much better yields are often 
obtained. Yields as high as 2 quarts per plant have 
been recorded. 
